More like 6 days6 months? Optimist
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Got the driver's side heatshield back on the exhaust manifold, more cleaning, wheelarch liner back in. Those clips can be a PITA. Trim tool kit we bought for wife's Ka has see more use on Otto than the Ka!
Checked and discovered I had managed to transpose plug leads for 1 and 3, so he should run better next time.
Tomorrow hope to do the other wheelarch liner and get the damaged floor insulation cut away from the cat so we can run him properly. Also clean the IACV as realised the breather hose which goes into the plenum duct there was the one which was clogged with crud and so rotten it fell apart when we were dismantling. Can't have been doing the valve any good.
Checked and discovered I had managed to transpose plug leads for 1 and 3, so he should run better next time.
Tomorrow hope to do the other wheelarch liner and get the damaged floor insulation cut away from the cat so we can run him properly. Also clean the IACV as realised the breather hose which goes into the plenum duct there was the one which was clogged with crud and so rotten it fell apart when we were dismantling. Can't have been doing the valve any good.
Ouch but well done in other respect
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
Just drove it
Weirdo
Broken wire?
@martyuk has found a few issues with the later 4w TC units. I think yours is a later model? I cannot remember if it involves the sensor circuit but he may have done a post on it somewhere.
Changed all the HEVAC bulbs as one had gone so did the lot. A rather nice little box with instructions from the Independent Land Rover centre in Derbyshire, all delivered PDQ for a tenner. More than buying the bulbs separately I know but for hassle free speed the extra couple of quid was worth it.
I never thought to check what Land Rover or Rimmer Bros charge.
I never thought to check what Land Rover or Rimmer Bros charge.
Been a week since I started using the car again and I still have the smell of rubber from the new heater hoses. I am guessing that is one reason why Land Rover used ally pipes, that and getting them through the bulkhead.
That reminds me, in order to hold the new rubber pipes steady where they go through the bulkhead I snapped off the old plastic holder (accidentally to be honest but serendipitous) made two 8mm holes top and bottom and then made holes in the same place on the rubber grommet for the pipes. I then made up a plate from an offcut of 3/4" oak floorboard with two 32mm holes which is just big enough for the protruding part of the grommet to slot into. So my rubber pipes go through the plastic holder, through the grommet which is in its place in the bulkhead and then the wooden plate clamps through with two 8mm bolts to hold the whole assembly rock solid and prevent any movement where it passed through the bulkhead. I cut the old ally pipe ends off to join the old pipes to the new.
@brianp38dse - I have enough 19mm hose left to do yours when the time comes.
That reminds me, in order to hold the new rubber pipes steady where they go through the bulkhead I snapped off the old plastic holder (accidentally to be honest but serendipitous) made two 8mm holes top and bottom and then made holes in the same place on the rubber grommet for the pipes. I then made up a plate from an offcut of 3/4" oak floorboard with two 32mm holes which is just big enough for the protruding part of the grommet to slot into. So my rubber pipes go through the plastic holder, through the grommet which is in its place in the bulkhead and then the wooden plate clamps through with two 8mm bolts to hold the whole assembly rock solid and prevent any movement where it passed through the bulkhead. I cut the old ally pipe ends off to join the old pipes to the new.
@brianp38dse - I have enough 19mm hose left to do yours when the time comes.
Get a picture please @GrrrrrrBeen a week since I started using the car again and I still have the smell of rubber from the new heater hoses. I am guessing that is one reason why Land Rover used ally pipes, that and getting them through the bulkhead.
That reminds me, in order to hold the new rubber pipes steady where they go through the bulkhead I snapped off the old plastic holder (accidentally to be honest but serendipitous) made two 8mm holes top and bottom and then made holes in the same place on the rubber grommet for the pipes. I then made up a plate from an offcut of 3/4" oak floorboard with two 32mm holes which is just big enough for the protruding part of the grommet to slot into. So my rubber pipes go through the plastic holder, through the grommet which is in its place in the bulkhead and then the wooden plate clamps through with two 8mm bolts to hold the whole assembly rock solid and prevent any movement where it passed through the bulkhead. I cut the old ally pipe ends off to join the old pipes to the new.
@brianp38dse - I have enough 19mm hose left to do yours when the time comes.
Yep mines the 4wTC model. I'll take the sensor off after a brew so i can test it from the warmth of the sofa
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I have returned,The way Covid restrictions are going, he might not be back for some time
what a money making scam testing is ,two pre ordered LF tests now useless as they moved the goalposts to PCR's hope they enjoyed their parties I think I'll have a run to Barnard Castle to get my shopping.
Right, DVM says ~5kOhms.. pretty sure that's wrong?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Am I right in assuming it's for the grub screw on the con rod? 3.5 mm but I've never had to remove that, changing the piston seal can be done without removing it.
Welcome back pal only mark been calling me a pervI have returned,
Progress.. tapped the sensor.. as you do, resistance changed to 1.2kOhms. plugged it back in and nanocom says 'no faults found'
Have always said when in doubt give it a clout
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Until the next time
