tomcat59alan said:
Sure I saw a brand new coil pack for sale on the Bay, seemed reasonable but what do I know, diesels don't need them.:D
Click to expand...
To be honest when it comes to that I'd rather pay for new and do it once.

I managed to get out and check for spark and I found 3, 7, 6 & 8 were all very weak. By that I mean I needed to hold the lead onto a metal surface to even make a noise never mind see a spark. Whereas the others I could lift them about an inch off the metal and there was a strong spark. So that will explain, partially, the problem with it feeling like it was struggling under hard acceleration. The only bit I will seriously struggle with is removing and replacing the coil pack but I'll worry about that if (when) it comes to that.
In the meantime I checked & tried the instrument lights again and nope, no good. The gearshift surround lights up (P 1 2 etc) when I turn the lights off and then the car off. Is that correct I don't have a clue because I can't remember specifics like that but, it got my wife & I thinking (mainly her). Back before the instrument lights and the lights across the buttons (cruise etc) stopped working the gearshift surround was flickering on & off intermittently. Now as I have said in previous posts I have checked all the wires are located correctly and for continuity etc and everything was good. What I don't know though is the way it is lighting up right now correct? It doesn't seem to be to me but as I say I can't remember little details like that but I do recall seeing it flicker right before they all died.
I must thank you all again as I wouldn't have even gotten this far without the help of you all. Even those who have asked me to check things I know I had already checked, it has helped to rule that part out for sure. If I had a full head of hair it would all have been ripped out by now. And yes, the avatar is a pretty good likeness...............except betterer.
So tomorrow if I can I'll check all the HT leads. Exciting times.............:confused:
Cheers

Craig
 
MacMan6107 said:
To be honest when it comes to that I'd rather pay for new and do it once.

I managed to get out and check for spark and I found 3, 7, 6 & 8 were all very weak. By that I mean I needed to hold the lead onto a metal surface to even make a noise never mind see a spark. Whereas the others I could lift them about an inch off the metal and there was a strong spark. So that will explain, partially, the problem with it feeling like it was struggling under hard acceleration. The only bit I will seriously struggle with is removing and replacing the coil pack but I'll worry about that if (when) it comes to that.
In the meantime I checked & tried the instrument lights again and nope, no good. The gearshift surround lights up (P 1 2 etc) when I turn the lights off and then the car off. Is that correct I don't have a clue because I can't remember specifics like that but, it got my wife & I thinking (mainly her). Back before the instrument lights and the lights across the buttons (cruise etc) stopped working the gearshift surround was flickering on & off intermittently. Now as I have said in previous posts I have checked all the wires are located correctly and for continuity etc and everything was good. What I don't know though is the way it is lighting up right now correct? It doesn't seem to be to me but as I say I can't remember little details like that but I do recall seeing it flicker right before they all died.
I must thank you all again as I wouldn't have even gotten this far without the help of you all. Even those who have asked me to check things I know I had already checked, it has helped to rule that part out for sure. If I had a full head of hair it would all have been ripped out by now. And yes, the avatar is a pretty good likeness...............except betterer.
So tomorrow if I can I'll check all the HT leads. Exciting times.............:confused:
Cheers

Craig
Click to expand...
The coil packs were brand new.tyoe in P38 coil pack.;)
 
MacMan6107 said:
To be honest when it comes to that I'd rather pay for new and do it once.

I managed to get out and check for spark and I found 3, 7, 6 & 8 were all very weak. By that I mean I needed to hold the lead onto a metal surface to even make a noise never mind see a spark. Whereas the others I could lift them about an inch off the metal and there was a strong spark. So that will explain, partially, the problem with it feeling like it was struggling under hard acceleration. The only bit I will seriously struggle with is removing and replacing the coil pack but I'll worry about that if (when) it comes to that.
In the meantime I checked & tried the instrument lights again and nope, no good. The gearshift surround lights up (P 1 2 etc) when I turn the lights off and then the car off. Is that correct I don't have a clue because I can't remember specifics like that but, it got my wife & I thinking (mainly her). Back before the instrument lights and the lights across the buttons (cruise etc) stopped working the gearshift surround was flickering on & off intermittently. Now as I have said in previous posts I have checked all the wires are located correctly and for continuity etc and everything was good. What I don't know though is the way it is lighting up right now correct? It doesn't seem to be to me but as I say I can't remember little details like that but I do recall seeing it flicker right before they all died.
I must thank you all again as I wouldn't have even gotten this far without the help of you all. Even those who have asked me to check things I know I had already checked, it has helped to rule that part out for sure. If I had a full head of hair it would all have been ripped out by now. And yes, the avatar is a pretty good likeness...............except betterer.
So tomorrow if I can I'll check all the HT leads. Exciting times.............:confused:
Cheers

Craig
Click to expand...

The earth cables are all sound are they?
 
I've also found a bloke on ebay who repairs BECMs but he is on holiday til the 6th of Sept. Does anyone here know what that entails and if especially that doing it can set any BECM to match my car? I ask because I have a 100% known and in perfect condition BECM, albeit it's in Australia. I have no idea if it can be reprogrammed to match mine or not but it is the only piece I haven't been able to test. So yes I really am fishing here, but as I have tried absolutely everything else it's the only thing I can think of.

Cheers

Craig
 
MacMan6107 said:
I've also found a bloke on ebay who repairs BECMs but he is on holiday til the 6th of Sept. Does anyone here know what that entails and if especially that doing it can set any BECM to match my car? I ask because I have a 100% known and in perfect condition BECM, albeit it's in Australia. I have no idea if it can be reprogrammed to match mine or not but it is the only piece I haven't been able to test. So yes I really am fishing here, but as I have tried absolutely everything else it's the only thing I can think of.

Cheers

Craig
Click to expand...
@Rick-the-Pick is recommended by members on here,his company is Callrover or something like that.may be worth dropping him a PM. He may reply as I've tagged him.;):D I recall some horror stories about someone off the Bay.
 
In light of my brotherinlaw's car getting nicked I've decided to try a cheap tracker that should arrive later today. I'll post some pics of where I hide it once fitted :p:D

upload_2021-8-25_9-59-22.png


upload_2021-8-25_9-59-47.png
 
MacMan6107 said:
I've also found a bloke on ebay who repairs BECMs but he is on holiday til the 6th of Sept. Does anyone here know what that entails and if especially that doing it can set any BECM to match my car? I ask because I have a 100% known and in perfect condition BECM, albeit it's in Australia. I have no idea if it can be reprogrammed to match mine or not but it is the only piece I haven't been able to test. So yes I really am fishing here, but as I have tried absolutely everything else it's the only thing I can think of.

Cheers

Craig
Click to expand...

Coil packs can be moved.

Rick-the-pick is the best for BECMs. Marty can clone your BECM and do a lot of repairs but I don't think he has all the testing capabilities of Rick. I've seen it done and if you have the kit it isn't difficult. I wouldn't touch anyone on the Bay without a recommendation. I suspect Classic Rides North Wales might be able to do it.
 
Last edited:
Grrrrrr said:
Coil packs can be moved.

Rick-the-pick is the best for BECMs. Marty can close your BECM and do a lot of repairs but I don't think he has all the testing capabilities of Rick. I've seen it done and if you have the kit it isn't difficult. I wouldn't touch anyone on the Bay without a recommendation. I suspect Classic Rides North Wales might be able to do it.
Click to expand...

Cheers. I reached out to Rick and he says it is something he can do. I think the one you mention in Wales is the one I saw. Don't know. I do know I need to move the coil packs though because there is no way I can get into work on them. Where to mount them is a minor price to pay. I've seen a place that does Magnacor(iirc) lead packs where I can make leads to any custom setup I need. They have a standard set for the P38 but moving the coil packs will require the custom ones. So something to work on over the coming warmer days.
 
MacMan6107 said:
Cheers. I reached out to Rick and he says it is something he can do. I think the one you mention in Wales is the one I saw. Don't know. I do know I need to move the coil packs though because there is no way I can get into work on them. Where to mount them is a minor price to pay. I've seen a place that does Magnacor(iirc) lead packs where I can make leads to any custom setup I need. They have a standard set for the P38 but moving the coil packs will require the custom ones. So something to work on over the coming warmer days.
Click to expand...
In Scotland??:)
 
Grrrrrr said:
Coil packs can be moved.

Rick-the-pick is the best for BECMs. Marty can close your BECM and do a lot of repairs but I don't think he has all the testing capabilities of Rick. I've seen it done and if you have the kit it isn't difficult. I wouldn't touch anyone on the Bay without a recommendation. I suspect Classic Rides North Wales might be able to do it.
Click to expand...

From what they had on the site CRNW do BECM stuff. And certainly his key coding and cutting stuff was quick and first rate service and quality. He'd be on my list if I needed any BECM work.
 
Spent about 4 hours scrunched over and under getting into near impossible places and finally getting the RHS exhaust heatshield off.

All exhaust header bolts loosened and penetrant oiled ready for removal of exhausts from heads.

Inlet manifold removed and that plus rocker covers passed to SWMBO for cleaning and sorting.

Tomorrow - alternator brackets / other bits and then hopefully both cylinder heads finally removed.

Then Friday can hopefully take them to a local specialist for any remedial work, plus fitting a full set of new valves and guides after a pressure test.

Might even (if all goes swimmingly well) be able to have him back together by MOT date in late September.

Then just the EAS stuff, the bodywork bits, etc.... That should have jinxed things.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Spent about 4 hours scrunched over and under getting into near impossible places and finally getting the RHS exhaust heatshield off.

All exhaust header bolts loosened and penetrant oiled ready for removal of exhausts from heads.

Inlet manifold removed and that plus rocker covers passed to SWMBO for cleaning and sorting.

Tomorrow - alternator brackets / other bits and then hopefully both cylinder heads finally removed.

Then Friday can hopefully take them to a local specialist for any remedial work, plus fitting a full set of new valves and guides after a pressure test.

Might even (if all goes swimmingly well) be able to have him back together by MOT date in late September.

Then just the EAS stuff, the bodywork bits, etc.... That should have jinxed things.
Click to expand...

You'll probably find the heads are fine. A quick glance with an engineers rule and you'll know.
 
Grrrrrr said:
You'll probably find the heads are fine. A quick glance with an engineers rule and you'll know.
Click to expand...

We're hoping so. Pin hole somewhere between water jacket and cylinder probably, and likely burn through between 2 and 4 given the compressions. Still got to clean / check the injectors, but I am thinking 4 has been over-fuelling badly (maybe jammed open injector?) causing carbon build up on valve and subsequent burn up the inlet passage. Only way that should be looking like an exhaust port. Seen some pictures of work done by this place on cylinder heads that have had dropped valves bouncing about and been welded / re machined so sure they can fix and less than new head prices.
Just then if can clean / fix the injectors, or get them services, or bite the bullet for replacements. If we do that the Bosch Gen 2 / 3 seem to be favourite from what I have seen online.
 
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