Rather use spring ones like you get on coolant pipes, it's to go on a plastic connection and don't want to break it!
That's what I've been looking for but nobody stocks less than 10mm
Plumb merchants? Some microbore was 8mm. Assume you mean P clips?
BES are the online plumb merchants I use.
EDIT: just read further up. No idea but you'll want stainless steel. Maybe Google Mikalor?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12460868...7779&msclkid=8d92ca4b3a19189e39ffab68b5f1c0af
Yep seen that brand.. just rang up a motor factors, they have some in
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Took the child bride for a run out for the first time in ages, bloody welding, we did 15 miles
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Painted some rusty bits.
Tried Low range and it just buzzed and didn't engage, luckily I gave the selector motor some persuasion with my hammer and all is well.
Must pull it apart and clean it up.
Gave the chassis a pressure wash and drove it for the first time in 3 weeks to dry it off...
Tried Low range and it just buzzed and didn't engage, luckily I gave the selector motor some persuasion with my hammer and all is well.
Must pull it apart and clean it up.
Gave the chassis a pressure wash and drove it for the first time in 3 weeks to dry it off...
They still need a squirt of lube on the threads tho ...
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Not much due to aches from the gardening at the weekend. Bought some new cutters for the Dremel to try to get the remaining heatshield bolts off tomorrow.
Did a bit of cleaning on the removed bonnet acoustic cover. Will also be getting a proper deep clean as well, today was just hoovering the loose / embedded dust and filth of 25 years off. Didn't take a before, but this is after.
And this is halfway through.
Did a bit of cleaning on the removed bonnet acoustic cover. Will also be getting a proper deep clean as well, today was just hoovering the loose / embedded dust and filth of 25 years off. Didn't take a before, but this is after.
And this is halfway through.
MacMan6107
Well-Known Member
Hmmm. So what's been happening; I haven't solved the issue with the instrument lights. I have pulled out every connector, cleaned them all and made sure every wire was located correctly in its connector (leads me to the BECM and I have no clue at all with that!). I need to buy some new bulbs, two for the cruise control switch (1 orange and 1 green) and one for the clock, which I know is blown. I took the cruise switch out but didn't see any soldering issues plus it does work in regards to switching the cruise control on & off. Could both bulbs have blown; sure. But something is telling me there is perhaps another issue there that isn't showing. Keep in mind I have tested every wire and they are all good.
But wait, there's more (no steak knives though). Just these past few weeks the car has been bogging down a bit in the lower gears. About a month or 2 back I checked all fluid levels and they were all good. So I moved on to plugging in the Hawkeye today to see what was happening with the live data. Cylinder 3 has a misfire so I had a look at the spark plug and it looked fine. I tested the lead for spark and there was one but it was very weak. I tried some of the other ones and they were good and strong, except for the second one from the front on the right side of the block. That was also very weak. I managed to check and make sure all of the leads were secured correctly at both ends and tried the car again but the issue persisted. I'm worried now that it may be the coil pack as that's the only part of the ignition system I haven't changed since buying the car at the start of 2018. TPS, Maf sensor, spark plugs, HT leads (were OEM from the Landy dealer up in Motherwell) are all just going on 3 years old this November. So they shouldn't be causing this issue plus we do bugger all miles in it every year as well. However what I am going to do is go out tonight if I can and have a look in the dark and see if the leads are arcing anywhere they shouldn't be. If they are then that's another £200 spend for leads plus £100 if it is the coil pack. I need to rest before I go out tomorrow again and test the leads one by one when the engine is cold. Exciting times............
So right at this moment it isn't fun owning the car but I need to persevere because I need it, plus I also like it.
But wait, there's more (no steak knives though). Just these past few weeks the car has been bogging down a bit in the lower gears. About a month or 2 back I checked all fluid levels and they were all good. So I moved on to plugging in the Hawkeye today to see what was happening with the live data. Cylinder 3 has a misfire so I had a look at the spark plug and it looked fine. I tested the lead for spark and there was one but it was very weak. I tried some of the other ones and they were good and strong, except for the second one from the front on the right side of the block. That was also very weak. I managed to check and make sure all of the leads were secured correctly at both ends and tried the car again but the issue persisted. I'm worried now that it may be the coil pack as that's the only part of the ignition system I haven't changed since buying the car at the start of 2018. TPS, Maf sensor, spark plugs, HT leads (were OEM from the Landy dealer up in Motherwell) are all just going on 3 years old this November. So they shouldn't be causing this issue plus we do bugger all miles in it every year as well. However what I am going to do is go out tonight if I can and have a look in the dark and see if the leads are arcing anywhere they shouldn't be. If they are then that's another £200 spend for leads plus £100 if it is the coil pack. I need to rest before I go out tomorrow again and test the leads one by one when the engine is cold. Exciting times............
So right at this moment it isn't fun owning the car but I need to persevere because I need it, plus I also like it.
Have you tried and made sure the instrument panel lights are turned up full? Daft question but....Hmmm. So what's been happening; I haven't solved the issue with the instrument lights. I have pulled out every connector, cleaned them all and made sure every wire was located correctly in its connector (leads me to the BECM and I have no clue at all with that!). I need to buy some new bulbs, two for the cruise control switch (1 orange and 1 green) and one for the clock, which I know is blown. I took the cruise switch out but didn't see any soldering issues plus it does work in regards to switching the cruise control on & off. Could both bulbs have blown; sure. But something is telling me there is perhaps another issue there that isn't showing. Keep in mind I have tested every wire and they are all good.
But wait, there's more (no steak knives though). Just these past few weeks the car has been bogging down a bit in the lower gears. About a month or 2 back I checked all fluid levels and they were all good. So I moved on to plugging in the Hawkeye today to see what was happening with the live data. Cylinder 3 has a misfire so I had a look at the spark plug and it looked fine. I tested the lead for spark and there was one but it was very weak. I tried some of the other ones and they were good and strong, except for the second one from the front on the right side of the block. That was also very weak. I managed to check and make sure all of the leads were secured correctly at both ends and tried the car again but the issue persisted. I'm worried now that it may be the coil pack as that's the only part of the ignition system I haven't changed since buying the car at the start of 2018. TPS, Maf sensor, spark plugs, HT leads (were OEM from the Landy dealer up in Motherwell) are all just going on 3 years old this November. So they shouldn't be causing this issue plus we do bugger all miles in it every year as well. However what I am going to do is go out tonight if I can and have a look in the dark and see if the leads are arcing anywhere they shouldn't be. If they are then that's another £200 spend for leads plus £100 if it is the coil pack. I need to rest before I go out tomorrow again and test the leads one by one when the engine is cold. Exciting times............
So right at this moment it isn't fun owning the car but I need to persevere because I need it, plus I also like it.
If there's a coil pack problem then you'd see a problem with cylinder #2 and #3 as it's the same coilHmmm. So what's been happening; I haven't solved the issue with the instrument lights. I have pulled out every connector, cleaned them all and made sure every wire was located correctly in its connector (leads me to the BECM and I have no clue at all with that!). I need to buy some new bulbs, two for the cruise control switch (1 orange and 1 green) and one for the clock, which I know is blown. I took the cruise switch out but didn't see any soldering issues plus it does work in regards to switching the cruise control on & off. Could both bulbs have blown; sure. But something is telling me there is perhaps another issue there that isn't showing. Keep in mind I have tested every wire and they are all good.
But wait, there's more (no steak knives though). Just these past few weeks the car has been bogging down a bit in the lower gears. About a month or 2 back I checked all fluid levels and they were all good. So I moved on to plugging in the Hawkeye today to see what was happening with the live data. Cylinder 3 has a misfire so I had a look at the spark plug and it looked fine. I tested the lead for spark and there was one but it was very weak. I tried some of the other ones and they were good and strong, except for the second one from the front on the right side of the block. That was also very weak. I managed to check and make sure all of the leads were secured correctly at both ends and tried the car again but the issue persisted. I'm worried now that it may be the coil pack as that's the only part of the ignition system I haven't changed since buying the car at the start of 2018. TPS, Maf sensor, spark plugs, HT leads (were OEM from the Landy dealer up in Motherwell) are all just going on 3 years old this November. So they shouldn't be causing this issue plus we do bugger all miles in it every year as well. However what I am going to do is go out tonight if I can and have a look in the dark and see if the leads are arcing anywhere they shouldn't be. If they are then that's another £200 spend for leads plus £100 if it is the coil pack. I need to rest before I go out tomorrow again and test the leads one by one when the engine is cold. Exciting times............
So right at this moment it isn't fun owning the car but I need to persevere because I need it, plus I also like it.
MacMan6107
Well-Known Member
Have you tried and made sure the instrument panel lights are turned up full? Daft question but....
Ask away. Yep done it. Tried the original and a second indicator stalk and it changed nothing. well, except I now have 2 indicator stalks.
MacMan6107
Well-Known Member
I didn't know that so thanks. 1,2,3,4 are all on the left bank when looking at the block from the front, right? Or is it across the block? Honestly right now I can't remember and I don't have RAVE at hand to look again. I swear I forget things the moment they go in.
Odds passenger side, evens drivers side
MacMan6107
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I'll go back and have another look later.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Sure I saw a brand new coil pack for sale on the Bay, seemed reasonable but what do I know, diesels don't need them.
