biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
Iv still got the car, my 2004 rover 75 with 23k miles from new. It still looks good however polish and things have moved on a lot since then and I now have a whole lot of other products I use
MacMan6107
Well-Known Member
Today we went and bought a 2ndhand indicator stalk. We removed the trim to remove and replace the original one. Plugged it in, reconnected the battery and tried it.........nothing. Still no instrument lights on. So we removed the cluster again to make sure everything everywhere was plugged in correctly, yes I know it's only the two connectors at the front but it was more to put my mind at ease. Reinstalled everything and tried the dimmer switch again nothing.
So where am I at with this? We removed and tested every bulb on the cluster and they're all good. We know all the instruments are working. We know power is getting to the cluster correctly.
The light for the ignition key surround isn't working nor is the light for the smoke lighter or the gear surround. We removed those over the weekend to again make sure everything was plugged in correctly but still no change.
The only thing I can think of now is putting a nanocom on and seeing if it picks up the fault. Because the Hawkeye definitely doesn't tell you about that kind of fault. You can test everything individually on the dash but the lights for the cluster still don't work. Oh, and I don't have one.
I am really at a loss with this now. Thankfully I'm only £10 down for the day and not over £100 for a brand new one.
Oh well.
So where am I at with this? We removed and tested every bulb on the cluster and they're all good. We know all the instruments are working. We know power is getting to the cluster correctly.
The light for the ignition key surround isn't working nor is the light for the smoke lighter or the gear surround. We removed those over the weekend to again make sure everything was plugged in correctly but still no change.
The only thing I can think of now is putting a nanocom on and seeing if it picks up the fault. Because the Hawkeye definitely doesn't tell you about that kind of fault. You can test everything individually on the dash but the lights for the cluster still don't work. Oh, and I don't have one.
I am really at a loss with this now. Thankfully I'm only £10 down for the day and not over £100 for a brand new one.
Oh well.
Last edited:
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
These monsters should clean up nice
Nearly new at a good price all 4
Nearly new at a good price all 4
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Today I mainly took the exhaust off and replaced the passenger side rear box, only ordered it on Monday and it arrived at lunchtime today Excellent service and not a snide copy,Well done Trans Global Trading. Gave the system a good coating of paint I acquired years ago which was used originally to protect cable reels which stood open to the elements.Bit of welding to be done while it's on the ramps the time down the farm has taken its toll.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Today i help fit new front antirollbar bushes, they are a right pain in the arris no room to swing a spanner and you cant get a socket on Range rovers who'd have um
Range rovers who'd have um
Use a crows footToday i help fit new front antirollbar bushes, they are a right pain in the arris no room to swing a spanner and you cant get a socket on
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
That is why I generally have mine in that setting too. Normal / extended exposes too much worn bag. Got enough compressor wear / noise already, but fixing the engine comes ahead of the EAS stuff. Plus that can be taken off and done in dry / warm during the winter mostly. Engine I'll take light and warm / dry(er) of summer if I can.I have mine locked in M-Way height because...well.... 20 years old air-suspension bags.
Last service they reported all 4 bags were showing splits.
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Eventually managed all of the injector / fuel temp ones without damaging or losing anything. And then took nearly as long doing the blue one the same down the passenger bulkhead side so I could wrestle the loom out of the way. Thanks for the advice / description - At least I had the confidence of knowing I was in good company in how I was doing it.I used a small hook to unclip the small ends and a pair of long nosed pliers to hold the clip so it didn't fly off. If you loose one or five don't worry you can have mine.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
Spent several hours wrestling with many fittings.
All the weird injector type clips removed and disconnected, loom out of the way.
Alternator off - seem to remember reading that someone had a tweak to increase the voltage it runs a bit? Plan to search for that.
Dremel and cutting disc slotted the seized screw on the r/h intake that holds the loom and coolant hose clip. Then after 2 full turns with the impact driver it released normally. No wonder it stuck, someone had used a dome head allen screw about 1/4 inch over stock length.
Coolant hoses, bar the little bypass one at the front of the inlet manifold, all off / out of the way.
After much WD40, all injectors free of the inlet manifold and fuel rail off. Some of the injectors appear to have a split in the green ring at the top - is that a bad sign?
Final bolts out of the right hand rocker cover, that is now off. Looks a bit crispier / more cooked that the left bank but has had at least number 4 burning back up the inlet manifold from the colours / soot so not unexpected. Just hope no ill effects on cylinder head / block / liners.
Rain stopped play.
If I get any dry spells I'll get the rocker shafts off and ready to strip / check / overhaul / reassemble ready for getting everything back together. But that will have to wait for dry weather to get under and the return of our loaned multitool for cutting the heatshield ex-bolts off.
All the weird injector type clips removed and disconnected, loom out of the way.
Alternator off - seem to remember reading that someone had a tweak to increase the voltage it runs a bit? Plan to search for that.
Dremel and cutting disc slotted the seized screw on the r/h intake that holds the loom and coolant hose clip. Then after 2 full turns with the impact driver it released normally. No wonder it stuck, someone had used a dome head allen screw about 1/4 inch over stock length.
Coolant hoses, bar the little bypass one at the front of the inlet manifold, all off / out of the way.
After much WD40, all injectors free of the inlet manifold and fuel rail off. Some of the injectors appear to have a split in the green ring at the top - is that a bad sign?
Final bolts out of the right hand rocker cover, that is now off. Looks a bit crispier / more cooked that the left bank but has had at least number 4 burning back up the inlet manifold from the colours / soot so not unexpected. Just hope no ill effects on cylinder head / block / liners.
Rain stopped play.
If I get any dry spells I'll get the rocker shafts off and ready to strip / check / overhaul / reassemble ready for getting everything back together. But that will have to wait for dry weather to get under and the return of our loaned multitool for cutting the heatshield ex-bolts off.
Last edited:
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
I'm sure I'll track something down. My Triumph Legend has a car type alternator and I adapted that after a regulator failure with an insulated terminal, a flylead and a remote mounted car regulator. £15 in parts instead of £100+ for the Triumph part. At least this has more mass market parts on it that the bike.
Today we went and bought a 2ndhand indicator stalk. We removed the trim to remove and replace the original one. Plugged it in, reconnected the battery and tried it.........nothing. Still no instrument lights on. So we removed the cluster again to make sure everything everywhere was pkugged in correctly, yes I know it's only the teo connectors at the front but it was more to put my mind at ease. Reinstalled everything and tried the dimmer switch again nothing.
So where am I atwith this? We removed and tested every bulb on the cluster and they're all good. We know all the instruments are working. We know power is getting to the cluster correctly.
The light for the ignition key surround isn't working nor is the light for the smoke lighter or the gear surround. We removed those over the werkend to again make sure everything was pkugged in correctly but still no change.
The only thing I can think of now is putting a nanocom on and seeing if it picks up the fault. Because the Hawkeye definitely doesn't tell you about that kind of fault. You can test everything individually on the dash but the lights for the cluster still don't work. Oh, and I don't have one
.
I am really at a loss with this now. Thankfully I'm only £10 down for the day and not over £100 for a brand new one.
Oh well.
Don't think it will pick up the fault but you might be able to trigger using the Nanocom which might help narrow down where the fault is.
Dopey
Well-Known Member
If you get stuck PM me I have a new one, still in box.... for a lot lessToday we went and bought a 2ndhand indicator stalk. We removed the trim to remove and replace the original one. Plugged it in, reconnected the battery and tried it.........nothing. Still no instrument lights on. So we removed the cluster again to make sure everything everywhere was pkugged in correctly, yes I know it's only the teo connectors at the front but it was more to put my mind at ease. Reinstalled everything and tried the dimmer switch again nothing.
So where am I atwith this? We removed and tested every bulb on the cluster and they're all good. We know all the instruments are working. We know power is getting to the cluster correctly.
The light for the ignition key surround isn't working nor is the light for the smoke lighter or the gear surround. We removed those over the werkend to again make sure everything was pkugged in correctly but still no change.
The only thing I can think of now is putting a nanocom on and seeing if it picks up the fault. Because the Hawkeye definitely doesn't tell you about that kind of fault. You can test everything individually on the dash but the lights for the cluster still don't work. Oh, and I don't have one
.
I am really at a loss with this now. Thankfully I'm only £10 down for the day and not over £100 for a brand new one.
Oh well.
MacMan6107
Well-Known Member
Which is where the Nanocom would be better because even though I can trigger the lights it doesn't tell me where the fault is. I'm wondering if it's possible to put it on the bench, apply 12v to whichever pin it is for the lights. I'm going to try and follow the train line in RAVE to see if I can work out which line stops at the lights on the cluster.
Another thought is buy a good secondhand instrument cluster and plug it in and see if it works. However I had a quick search on eBay last night and they're between £30-£50 plus postage. If it doesn't work I'm down money I can't really afford just now.
The indicator stalk or instrument cluster? Re the stalk I was just testing to see if the dimmer switch on a 2nd one would be able to increase the illumination of the lights on the instrument cluster because it had been suggested the origianal may have been broken. I tested continuity for both and they were both fine. I may have to do the same with the instruments but there are a lot of pins on that to try and I don't want to hit the wrong ones in case it causes any issues. I am pretty confident it won't but I don't want to take the risk (unless an electrical wizard here says it would be fine).
So today will be a lot of desk time because I just don't get how the schematic works.
Exciting times.............
MacMan6107
Well-Known Member
What's a DVM?
I've worked out power & ground for the instrument lights so I'm going to pull that from the car today and test them. Hopefully that works which will mean (if I remember correctly) that there is a break in the wire somewhere. I don't know, I'll test for continuity on each wire all the same and on the connector at the cluster.
I know power & ground are working to and from the cluster so now I know which pins illuminate the bulbs for it I should be able to test them. If I'm reading RAVE properly there are only 6 bulbs that light the instruments. The rest all do warning symbols etc. and they all work.
