That's what I am thinking because power is definitely getting to the instruments and the ground must be good as well. But another thought is perhaps the circuit board solder is rooted for working the cluster lights.
If you have the cluster out, can you clip an earth and a positive probe to one (or more) cluster light solder blobs / tracks? As you work across them that should narrow where the break is if it is in the cluster. Maybe a bridging wire between 2 points on the relevant circuit will fix some / all of them?

And a really stupid thought - I had an intermittent problem on one of my bikes years ago. Everything checked out when probing the back of the blocks, checking to the terminals inside them with them disconnected but in use it was flakey.
Did another round of tests one day and as I disconnected the connector block one of the wires with terminal pulled out of the block, still attached to it's matching pin. Turned out the retaining tang had failed, so everything looked good back / front of the block, but when connected up the pins were pushing each other apart instead of engaging and only making tip to tip contact. Probing the back had engaged them enough for it to then stay engaged and pull out when I split to blocks again.

Have you got something similar, where the pin is pushing back into a connector block so you don't get contact for the light circuit?
 
have you checked fuses/fusebox?

Brand new fuse box and fuses. Also tested all of the relays and they're all good. The fuse box under the driver seat is a 10amp fuse for the whole dash, not just the instrument cluster. This is why there is still power to the IC. So that says to me the problem is at the IC and nowhere else. However, I'm going to test the continuity of the wires as far as I can.
 
If you have the cluster out, can you clip an earth and a positive probe to one (or more) cluster light solder blobs / tracks? As you work across them that should narrow where the break is if it is in the cluster. Maybe a bridging wire between 2 points on the relevant circuit will fix some / all of them?

And a really stupid thought - I had an intermittent problem on one of my bikes years ago. Everything checked out when probing the back of the blocks, checking to the terminals inside them with them disconnected but in use it was flakey.
Did another round of tests one day and as I disconnected the connector block one of the wires with terminal pulled out of the block, still attached to it's matching pin. Turned out the retaining tang had failed, so everything looked good back / front of the block, but when connected up the pins were pushing each other apart instead of engaging and only making tip to tip contact. Probing the back had engaged them enough for it to then stay engaged and pull out when I split to blocks again.

Have you got something similar, where the pin is pushing back into a connector block so you don't get contact for the light circuit?

I'll try that while it's out of the car.
I've also checked to make sure all of the pins are located properly because it did cross my mind yesterday. That was a fun job............it wasn't really.
 
Once they are on the braking of the car will clean em up too buddy. I always used to use my airline on my drilled/grooved discs in the past to keep em free of dust build up.
All the holes were clogged up with mud. Looks like they’ve done a bit off off-roading from new then stood for long while hardly any wear just cosmetic corrosion. I’m grinding out all the muck from the grooves and holes with an engraving tool. He threw the pads in too they seem few years old but only just bedded in.
Have new callipers and EBC ultimax pads to go on with them, by time I am back from the MOT they should be gleaming.

Presuming I get it back :eek:
 
All the holes were clogged up with mud. Looks like they’ve done a bit off off-roading from new then stood for long while hardly any wear just cosmetic corrosion. I’m grinding out all the muck from the grooves and holes with an engraving tool. He threw the pads in too they seem few years old but only just bedded in.
Have new callipers and EBC ultimax pads to go on with them, by time I am back from the MOT they should be gleaming.

Presuming I get it back :eek:

That's something I never considered. Any mud caught in a groove or hole will act like Wet & Dry on the pads.
 
Which is where the Nanocom would be better because even though I can trigger the lights it doesn't tell me where the fault is. I'm wondering if it's possible to put it on the bench, apply 12v to whichever pin it is for the lights. I'm going to try and follow the train line in RAVE to see if I can work out which line stops at the lights on the cluster.
Another thought is buy a good secondhand instrument cluster and plug it in and see if it works. However I had a quick search on eBay last night and they're between £30-£50 plus postage. If it doesn't work I'm down money I can't really afford just now.



The indicator stalk or instrument cluster? Re the stalk I was just testing to see if the dimmer switch on a 2nd one would be able to increase the illumination of the lights on the instrument cluster because it had been suggested the origianal may have been broken. I tested continuity for both and they were both fine. I may have to do the same with the instruments but there are a lot of pins on that to try and I don't want to hit the wrong ones in case it causes any issues. I am pretty confident it won't but I don't want to take the risk (unless an electrical wizard here says it would be fine).

So today will be a lot of desk time because I just don't get how the schematic works.

Exciting times.............
indicator stalk
 
Too wet out there today (bent over in a thunderstorm isn't my idea of fun), so reduced to playing with what we've already taken off.

Cleaning / painting engine parts is the wife's job as she has the patience for it, plus I am slightly fitter for climbing head first into engine bays so leaving the rocker covers, plenum chamber and upper manifold for her.

Alternator is off though for better access, and had had relatively poor charging. So thought I would have a look at tracking down a 14.7v set point regulator. Hoped I had found one after some trawling about, not helped by the total absence of any stampings / labels / codes on anything on my alternator. Google image search eventually matched it to the Denso 127-120 though.
Set to dismantling to double check. Plastic cover a pain to get off because of the weird folded over double washers. Got it off and measured. 68.5mm between main mounts, one I had traced was only 56.3 so back to the drawing board. On the other hand in the course of checking everything I could (hit a brick wall at slim line 5.5mm socket, not got one of them), I discovered that the nut under the main power output cable, you know, the 120Amp feed to starter and battery was slightly loose. Now the top nut would clamp that cable to there no problem, so no issue at the feed out, but under that nut is a terminal and tail that feeds down into the depths of the alternator - possibly the star wire connection if that is the configuration? Can't imagine that being loose and jumping about does anything for consistent and accurate alternator operation / output. All tightened, but obviously until the engine is done I can't see if there is any difference.

From what I can see on the wiring diagrams, the feed for the battery voltage comes direct from BECM, so I don't know what would happen if you tried to tinker with that.

On the Guzzi in the past I had poor charging when the regulator feed came straight from the battery. Taking the feed from a switched live but load bearing circuit instead meant the signal was lower, so the regulator compensated and effectively set the charge voltage a little higher. I don't know how much drain comes down that wire, but might putting a load in it have a similar effect? Suppress notified voltage (say by 0.5v) and lead to an effective bump in the set voltage by the same? Or would the load burn the BECM circuits? Or could a separate feed from a loaded live circuit do the same, possibly via a relay so the BECM still sees itself as switching something?

Thoughts? (No doubt starting with 'You want to add more complexity to a P38 wiring set up? You loony!).
 
Last edited:
ABS error is annoying now. Consistently 'front right sensor electrical failure' yet i can be watching the inputs on nanocom and all 4 readouts look normal even at the point the dash beeps with the error!
Do i just bite the bullet and put a new sensor in and hope it cures it? I'd be happier if i saw a blip on the nanocom
 
ABS error is annoying now. Consistently 'front right sensor electrical failure' yet i can be watching the inputs on nanocom and all 4 readouts look normal even at the point the dash beeps with the error!
Do i just bite the bullet and put a new sensor in and hope it cures it? I'd be happier if i saw a blip on the nanocom
Best to try a new sensor ;)
 
indicator stalk

What about it? The likelihood of two random indicator stalks being faulty is slim to non. So that clearly rules that out. So it's either the wiring from the dimmer on the stalk to the instrument cluster or there is a problem on the circuit board of the IC.
I'll be able to test the continuity of the circuits nearer the weekend all being well.
 

Similar threads