kermit_rr said:
Finally fixed the cruise control today to give me something else to think about, then went for a blast to see how much fuel i could burn!! Still getting occasional light tapping at idle :( i didn't check the lifters spun freely when i rebuilt :( i get the idea i should have.

Consensus seems to be to sand the bottom of the offending lifter with 320grit just enough to give the cam something to grab hold of and try again... Or go for a blast down the motorway in 3rd with fingers crossed..
Click to expand...

Did the followers slide in/out of their bores?

If yes then they should spin freely without issue.

The noise you're hearing is more likely IMO to be rocker related

I wouldn't sand anything with 320 grit, sanding a wear face that will be honed against the new cam all you'll do is partially remove the slight crown ground into the follower face which is typically less than 0.004 and is copied on the cam faces taper these are critical follower/cam face angles that need to match for proper rotation and break in.
 
Henry_b said:
Did the followers slide in/out of their bores?

If yes then they should spin freely without issue.

The noise you're hearing is more likely IMO to be rocker related

I wouldn't sand anything with 320 grit, sanding a wear face that will be honed against the new cam all you'll do is partially remove the slight crown ground into the follower face which is typically less than 0.004 and is copied on the cam faces taper these are critical follower/cam face angles that need to match for proper rotation and break in.
Click to expand...
Some of the old ones were a bit suborn coming out but the new ones went in easy enough.
I agree, sanding doesn't sound like the right answer, they're machined for a reason!
Maybe i need to investigate the rockers more, but a 'listening stick' seemed to suggest the sound was most prominent under the inlet manifold.
Shame you can't take the rockers off without taking the inlet off, would be much simpler!!!
 
kermit_rr said:
Some of the old ones were a bit suborn coming out but the new ones went in easy enough.
I agree, sanding doesn't sound like the right answer, they're machined for a reason!
Maybe i need to investigate the rockers more, but a 'listening stick' seemed to suggest the sound was most prominent under the inlet manifold.
Shame you can't take the rockers off without taking the inlet off, would be much simpler!!!
Click to expand...
The rocker arms themselves are fitted with a cup at the pushrod end and a steel pad at the valve end. the pads are slightly curved to allow the valve to slip across the top of them the pads tend to wear a groove from the top of the valve and can often fracture or break resulting in a noise similar to yours.

Also if she has had Head work in the past IE a skim it is worth checking the follower pre-load if its out of spec that would explain any noise.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Designed to be used. It certainly handles better with a good load in the boot. Mine will be towing a ton or so of water bowser around today.
Click to expand...

And it did so effortlessly. A ton on the back settles these cars down nicely and the air-suspension means you don't even notice it.
 
Henry_b said:
The rocker arms themselves are fitted with a cup at the pushrod end and a steel pad at the valve end. the pads are slightly curved to allow the valve to slip across the top of them the pads tend to wear a groove from the top of the valve and can often fracture or break resulting in a noise similar to yours.

Also if she has had Head work in the past IE a skim it is worth checking the follower pre-load if its out of spec that would explain any noise.
Click to expand...
Definitely easier checking rockers again than going any further :)
 
kermit_rr said:
Finally fixed the cruise control today to give me something else to think about, then went for a blast to see how much fuel i could burn!! Still getting occasional light tapping at idle :( i didn't check the lifters spun freely when i rebuilt :( i get the idea i should have.

Consensus seems to be to sand the bottom of the offending lifter with 320grit just enough to give the cam something to grab hold of and try again... Or go for a blast down the motorway in 3rd with fingers crossed..
Click to expand...
For what it costs may i suggest you add a bottle of " slick 50 " oil additive to the engine and see how that goes. I have used this on all my cars now for over 30 years and i swear by it and i have heard/felt a significant difference by using it.
Just a suggestion.
 
Enthusiastman said:
For what it costs may i suggest you add a bottle of " slick 50 " oil additive to the engine and see how that goes. I have used this on all my cars now for over 30 years and i swear by it and i have heard/felt a significant difference by using it.
Just a suggestion.
Click to expand...
I heard about that when i spent time in Americashire.. there was some stunt where they ran a treated engine without oil and it didn't blow up.
I prefer to fix a problem though, rather than mask it, especially on a keeper that should be 'good'
 
Enthusiastman said:
For what it costs may i suggest you add a bottle of " slick 50 " oil additive to the engine and see how that goes. I have used this on all my cars now for over 30 years and i swear by it and i have heard/felt a significant difference by using it.
Just a suggestion.
Click to expand...
I agree with the slick 50. We also used to use the bosch super 4 plugs in our petrol engines. A massive difference :cool: this was before platinum and iridium plugs of cours:)
 
kermit_rr said:
I heard about that when i spent time in Americashire.. there was some stunt where they ran a treated engine without oil and it didn't blow up.
I prefer to fix a problem though, rather than mask it, especially on a keeper that should be 'good'
Click to expand...
More investigation kermyo_O:)
 
kermit_rr said:
I heard about that when i spent time in Americashire.. there was some stunt where they ran a treated engine without oil and it didn't blow up.
I prefer to fix a problem though, rather than mask it, especially on a keeper that should be 'good'
Click to expand...
You will NOT be masking anything by using this product in your engine Kermie. Its a friction reducer PTFE and keeps a nice film coating on all internals all the time to prevent wear etc. I also used to run my Series 1 Escort RS Turbo on pure slick 50 back in the late 80's and she was awesome. Like i said buddy its your choice but i have been using this stuff for over 30 years now on all my cars coupled with K&N air filters too and all my cars run sweet.
 
Just noticed on ebay the dealer who sold me the P38 Westminster TD - KW02AEB which blew up after 100 miles last year has again lowered the price again to £7595 yesterday and today raised it back to £8595 down from £9995. I paid him £6250 for it last year BTW. LOL.
He has changed all the pictures too for fresh ones and i can see its still gleaming from all the polishing I DID ON IT. Not him.
He has tweaked his advert again on the wording but at the end of the day its still the same jinxed car albeit now with what i can only gather a second hand lump in it so the 107k on the clock will deffo be questionable now in regards to the engine.
Its still only got one key too and the battery cover is missing now off it. It also suffered badly from the dreaded battery drain syndrome as i had to keep my C-Tek connected all the time.
Its a nice looking car but not for that money and she will still need the A/C fixing as that didn't work at all and the rear bumper needs a full repaint as its patchy from a bodge job repair in the past. The bottoms of the doors on both sides had scabs too so its not mint like he says it is UNLESS he has had it done which i think NOT.
I fitted the new exhaust on it too as the old one was rotton and the gearbox oil cooler pipes leaked badly as well. I had a new pair to fit but did not get round to those as the engine blew up on me. I doubt very much he has had them fixed or replaced so they will still be leaking.
I can't blame him for TRYING to re-coup his losses back on the thing BUT all he is doing STILL is trying to take all the credit for all the monies spent on her by myself and the owner before me which does amount to his 11k he states as its all invoiced in the folder so he ain't lying there on that score.

LETS NOT FORGET THOUGH THIS CAR WAS BREATHED ON AND CHIPPED BY TURNER PERFORMANCE IN HEMEL HEMSTEAD back in 2018 which IMHOP led to its engine failure on me after just 100 miles of owning it.
He also states 4 previous owners on the V5c where i was the 8th owner so that's BS too.
To me if its now running ok its still ONLY a £5000 car MAX so if anyone has their eye on it PLEASE TREAD VERY CAREFULLY ON IT.

If the engine had not blown up on me i would have had everything done on her to make her MINT albeit would have cost a tidy sum to achieve. She is a very rare model as only 50 TD Westminster P38's were ever made so that's something to remember. The drivers seat also needed a re-trimming/foaming too on the outer bolster bum cushion area only otherwise the interior was immaculate after i finished cleaning it up as well as the whole car as the dealer had it stored in his barn miles away untouched for 2 years before i bought it too and after he took it in Px off the chap who owned it before me so the car sat idle for ages and has done again since he took it back off me.

MY ADVICE WOULD SIMPLY BE TO AVOID IT LIKE COVID 19.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Range Rover L322 - not turning over
Replies
12
Views
1K
gold rover
gold rover
B
L320 range rover sport 3.0 tdv6 loosing power steering fluid
Replies
3
Views
459
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
F
1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
T
Non start
Replies
3
Views
707
Datatek
Datatek
T
Fan Clutch??
Replies
14
Views
772
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr