DEFENDER90-DAZ
New Member
Very good mate!
Now get some grease in t gearbox
Now get some grease in t gearbox
Refurbing and rebuilding the gearbox .. way easier than I thought!
1. Mark the Case. It's important the case fits the right way round,
2. Undo the dog-point socket cap screw that holds the gear lever and remove the gear lever.
3. Undo and remove the 10 socket cap screws from the case.
4. Remove the whole gearbox and sit on it's end so you can pull the gearsets out separately. First time I did this I just tipped them all out ... not a great idea, but salvageable 'cos they can't fit wrongly!! Well, they can fit wrongly, but they won't work ..
5. Note the teeth on the drum case, these mate with the gear case' internal teeth to locate the holes, and allow re-alignment of the gear lever for different applications, but they are there mainly to locate the gear case and stop it from rotating with the gear sets.
6. Remove the gear cover by sliding up the teeth.
7. Remove the first gear set and thrust ring (round bit of plastic!). Note the orientation of this one, the toothed inner ring fits towards the drum, indeed it mates with the drum and provides the drive as the final stage of the gear reduction.
8. Remove next gear set.
9. remove next gear set. These two gearsets mate together and don't need a thrust ring between them.
10. Remove small drive gear. Note the hexagon shaped hole to receive the drive shaft. This is the first stage of the gearing and shows how small the actual drive shaft is and why it needs so much gear reduction! The 'bearing', in this winch, is a phosphur bronze bush and shows no wear at all so will be re-used.
11. Remove the freewheel/gear ring. Note the orientation, the plain end goes to the rear of the gearbox. It's important to get this right when rebuilding 'cos the gears won't drive correctly if it's the wrong way round, and won't disengage correctly for free-spooling either.
To borrow a cliche .. Re-assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly! It really is that simple. The pics following show the parts laid out in order and correct orientation. If you lay them out it's pretty simple to work out if something's wrong, but it's often worth, as I always do, trying a dry build first! Be careful when re-fitting the gear lever, the sliding selector ring gear can stick to one side or the other and can be awkward to move. I found the easiest way to fit it, if this happens, is to turn the drum so the gearsets rotate while you 'fiddle' the lever into place.
NOTE .. just noticed and cba to take more pics just for this .. the plastic thrust ring is the wrong way round in this picture, the small rebate on the inner edge fits over the final gearsets staked planetary gear shafts. It's basically to stop the final gearsets from connecting as they move at different speeds.
... and it'll all look like this when finished, but probably a lot cleaner when I've really finished ..
1. Mark the Case. It's important the case fits the right way round,
2. Undo the dog-point socket cap screw that holds the gear lever and remove the gear lever.
3. Undo and remove the 10 socket cap screws from the case.
4. Remove the whole gearbox and sit on it's end so you can pull the gearsets out separately. First time I did this I just tipped them all out ... not a great idea, but salvageable 'cos they can't fit wrongly!! Well, they can fit wrongly, but they won't work ..
5. Note the teeth on the drum case, these mate with the gear case' internal teeth to locate the holes, and allow re-alignment of the gear lever for different applications, but they are there mainly to locate the gear case and stop it from rotating with the gear sets.
6. Remove the gear cover by sliding up the teeth.
7. Remove the first gear set and thrust ring (round bit of plastic!). Note the orientation of this one, the toothed inner ring fits towards the drum, indeed it mates with the drum and provides the drive as the final stage of the gear reduction.
8. Remove next gear set.
9. remove next gear set. These two gearsets mate together and don't need a thrust ring between them.
10. Remove small drive gear. Note the hexagon shaped hole to receive the drive shaft. This is the first stage of the gearing and shows how small the actual drive shaft is and why it needs so much gear reduction! The 'bearing', in this winch, is a phosphur bronze bush and shows no wear at all so will be re-used.
11. Remove the freewheel/gear ring. Note the orientation, the plain end goes to the rear of the gearbox. It's important to get this right when rebuilding 'cos the gears won't drive correctly if it's the wrong way round, and won't disengage correctly for free-spooling either.
To borrow a cliche .. Re-assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly! It really is that simple. The pics following show the parts laid out in order and correct orientation. If you lay them out it's pretty simple to work out if something's wrong, but it's often worth, as I always do, trying a dry build first! Be careful when re-fitting the gear lever, the sliding selector ring gear can stick to one side or the other and can be awkward to move. I found the easiest way to fit it, if this happens, is to turn the drum so the gearsets rotate while you 'fiddle' the lever into place.
NOTE .. just noticed and cba to take more pics just for this .. the plastic thrust ring is the wrong way round in this picture, the small rebate on the inner edge fits over the final gearsets staked planetary gear shafts. It's basically to stop the final gearsets from connecting as they move at different speeds.
... and it'll all look like this when finished, but probably a lot cleaner when I've really finished ..
Yeah, I'm hoping most of the noise was lack of grease! I also know the bearings (plastic shims more like) the drum runs on were tight, taking any backlash out of the gear system so making them ring a bit! I'd guess the xd9000 will be a very similar build to this.
Some CV type Lithium based with Molybdenum disulphide .. supposed to stick to the metal but still be pretty viscous so it flows with the geartrain.
Just fitted the winch in and tested it .. and it all works .. just need cables crimping now, all joints silicone sealing, rope spooling on and it's good to go.
Been a long time this, for summat so simple!
warrior
Well-Known Member
... finally fitted and working!
Found it really needs new cables, the outer layer is a little black and they can all be shortened and tidied up a lot but it'll do for now .. it works is the main thing, and works well!
The solenoid box needs a small angle plate making up to bolt it onto, and preferably changing to a less conspicuous black box! Will swap to allbright solenoid pack when I can afford it. Also need to wire the second battery in so it dual charges with the main, and add a solenoid to the main feed with an in-cab switch to turn the winch on and off. The remote box and controller Topcat gave me work brilliantly and the freewheel also now works much more freely than it did 'cos it's all lined up nicely now .. it'll only get better as it settles in, I hope!
Found it really needs new cables, the outer layer is a little black and they can all be shortened and tidied up a lot but it'll do for now .. it works is the main thing, and works well!
The solenoid box needs a small angle plate making up to bolt it onto, and preferably changing to a less conspicuous black box! Will swap to allbright solenoid pack when I can afford it. Also need to wire the second battery in so it dual charges with the main, and add a solenoid to the main feed with an in-cab switch to turn the winch on and off. The remote box and controller Topcat gave me work brilliantly and the freewheel also now works much more freely than it did 'cos it's all lined up nicely now .. it'll only get better as it settles in, I hope!
Cost wise it was £60 for the winch, £79 for the motor, £5 for the grease £3 for the gaskets .. everything else was fettling and already in the shed!
Took a long time 'cos the original motor was nackered as was a second motor I was given, which wouldn't have fitted without extra work anyway, but thanks anyhow Rik!
Big thanks to Topcat who sorted me solenoids out one night and gave me the controller box and remote for it, Topbloke .. They had taken me a while 'cos I'd never come across them before and didn't even know how they worked, an hour or three with TC changed that!
Total cost then is £148 ... not too bad I reckon!
Given a few hundred quid spare to start with I could have done it way quicker, but time was on my side .. and it's so satisfying to fettle stuff myself and learn new stuff along the way ..
Took a long time 'cos the original motor was nackered as was a second motor I was given, which wouldn't have fitted without extra work anyway, but thanks anyhow Rik!
Big thanks to Topcat who sorted me solenoids out one night and gave me the controller box and remote for it, Topbloke ..
They had taken me a while 'cos I'd never come across them before and didn't even know how they worked, an hour or three with TC changed that!Total cost then is £148 ... not too bad I reckon!
Given a few hundred quid spare to start with I could have done it way quicker, but time was on my side .. and it's so satisfying to fettle stuff myself and learn new stuff along the way ..
discomark10
Well-Known Member
Love the fact you try before just throwing cash at it... my philosophy aslo
warrior
Well-Known Member
That's not a bad price mate, there's some of yours on eBay up fir £500Cost wise it was £60 for the winch, £79 for the motor, £5 for the grease £3 for the gaskets .. everything else was fettling and already in the shed!
Took a long time 'cos the original motor was nackered as was a second motor I was given, which wouldn't have fitted without extra work anyway, but thanks anyhow Rik!
Big thanks to Topcat who sorted me solenoids out one night and gave me the controller box and remote for it, Topbloke ..
Total cost then is £148 ... not too bad I reckon!
Given a few hundred quid spare to start with I could have done it way quicker, but time was on my side .. and it's so satisfying to fettle stuff myself and learn new stuff along the way ..
So not only does it cost you £148 its like new inside.
How it finally looks .. too feckin' cold to stay out longer and the floodlight's packed it too! So still to spool the rope on, but that won't take long. Removed the biscuit box and mounted the solenoids on separate mounts in front of the radiator with the control box next to them. Not waterproof, but it works ... and if I'm expecting mucho water/****e I'll put a rad muff on ..
Hole cut for access to gear/freespool lever ..
Switch mounted to the front. This works a winch solenoid to cut power to the winch. I also intend to have a second switch in the cab as a double bluff, so some numpty can't just turn the winch on without me knowing!
I like it, subtle ..
Hole cut for access to gear/freespool lever ..
Switch mounted to the front. This works a winch solenoid to cut power to the winch. I also intend to have a second switch in the cab as a double bluff, so some numpty can't just turn the winch on without me knowing!
I like it, subtle ..
warrior
Well-Known Member
Looks smart, be carefull with the switches as mine had a cheap one and I melted my solinoid and the winch wouldn't stop winching in, tried the kill switch which had melted so the cab was filling with smoke, so I left it and ran away befor the steel cable went bang, lucky for me the switch died and broke the circuit,
When I fit my 8274 I'm gona fit a kill switch on the ground aswell.
When I fit my 8274 I'm gona fit a kill switch on the ground aswell.
Can't feckin' believe it ...Solenoids gone west!
I used one to power the winch up from the secondary (very small) battery and the usual four (old style) solenoids to run it. The power solenoid and one of the others worked for a while, but 'went strange' .. the power one stopped allowing 12v through, only delivering 10 ish volts, which played havoc with the others, then it all worked beautifully for about two seconds then stopped! Thought it might be a thermal cutout, but after half an hour outside and freezing in the wind, it still wouldn't work, inside on the bench same ...
Can't get me feckin' breath!
So, anyone got any decent working winch solenoids they don't want? Need to be free or cheap .. For now I can just wire it so the winch is always powered up when I need it, but it ain't ideal!! Or is there any way to open a solenoid and fix it? Might drill the rivets out and have a look-see ...
I'll eventually get an Allbright setup but no way we can afford that right now!
I used one to power the winch up from the secondary (very small) battery and the usual four (old style) solenoids to run it. The power solenoid and one of the others worked for a while, but 'went strange' .. the power one stopped allowing 12v through, only delivering 10 ish volts, which played havoc with the others, then it all worked beautifully for about two seconds then stopped! Thought it might be a thermal cutout, but after half an hour outside and freezing in the wind, it still wouldn't work, inside on the bench same ...
Can't get me feckin' breath!
So, anyone got any decent working winch solenoids they don't want? Need to be free or cheap .. For now I can just wire it so the winch is always powered up when I need it, but it ain't ideal!! Or is there any way to open a solenoid and fix it? Might drill the rivets out and have a look-see ...
I'll eventually get an Allbright setup but no way we can afford that right now!
discomark10
Well-Known Member
Can't feckin' believe it ...Solenoids gone west!
I used one to power the winch up from the secondary (very small) battery and the usual four (old style) solenoids to run it. The power solenoid and one of the others worked for a while, but 'went strange' .. the power one stopped allowing 12v through, only delivering 10 ish volts, which played havoc with the others, then it all worked beautifully for about two seconds then stopped! Thought it might be a thermal cutout, but after half an hour outside and freezing in the wind, it still wouldn't work, inside on the bench same ...
Can't get me feckin' breath!
So, anyone got any decent working winch solenoids they don't want? Need to be free or cheap .. For now I can just wire it so the winch is always powered up when I need it, but it ain't ideal!! Or is there any way to open a solenoid and fix it? Might drill the rivets out and have a look-see ...
I'll eventually get an Allbright setup but no way we can afford that right now!
Most solinoid's are the same.. I got a 2nd hand winch and it didnt work... took the solinoid apart and water had got in and the moving parts had rusted solid. Cost 37 quid for a new one from fleebay. Oh and it wasnt repairable, its pretty much impossible to take apart without fooking it.
What I figured, but I'll still have a go, can't lose anything!
wiltshire landyman
I’m back
if ya pay the` postage I will give ya my hd solenoid I took of me 8274,cos im feeling generous tonight..this offer will self destruct in ten mins thoCan't feckin' believe it ...Solenoids gone west!
I used one to power the winch up from the secondary (very small) battery and the usual four (old style) solenoids to run it. The power solenoid and one of the others worked for a while, but 'went strange' .. the power one stopped allowing 12v through, only delivering 10 ish volts, which played havoc with the others, then it all worked beautifully for about two seconds then stopped! Thought it might be a thermal cutout, but after half an hour outside and freezing in the wind, it still wouldn't work, inside on the bench same ...
Can't get me feckin' breath!
So, anyone got any decent working winch solenoids they don't want? Need to be free or cheap .. For now I can just wire it so the winch is always powered up when I need it, but it ain't ideal!! Or is there any way to open a solenoid and fix it? Might drill the rivets out and have a look-see ...
I'll eventually get an Allbright setup but no way we can afford that right now!
wiltshire landyman
I’m back
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wiltshire landyman
I’m back
if I send ya me paypal addy just send me postage costs as a gift and I will send it out to ya
