Is there no way of replacing the broken bearing with 1 of the correct dimensions?
Does it have to be a warn bearing???

Daz

The bearing is fine, it's the fact that it's housing is both the endplate to the motor and the drum ... the plate is broken so the bearing comes away with the motor, while the outer part of the housing stays with the drum .. it should either all go in one piece with the motor or with the drum, but it's in two parts!

I think it's this that has let the water in so much and rusted it up!

Gonna try and get my bro to alloy weld it, if it won't or as has been tried in the past, try to fix it with Belzona, chemical metal, but obviously a complete housing would be way better!.
 
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Could you not get one machined ?

Maybe, but a one-off, without 'proper' dims and tolerances possibly wouldn't work and be damned expensive to boot ..

This is how it should look ..
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... but if you look closely you can see a hole and a crack, so when the bits are taken apart, this is what I've got ..
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Couple more views .. some bits have had to be cleaned to disassemble, so some look worse than others, but it all just looked ****ty all over inside. ;)

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As I've been cleaning bits it looks like the motor endplate and motor brushes are all I need to get it working properly .. plus solenoids and controls!!!

But I haven't opened the gearbox yet, I only get a couple of hours a day on it .. ;)
 
Will keep an eye on this, useful little thread. :)

Will be taking my Warn XP9.5 apart sometime in the new year. :confused:
 
If your you have a engineer friend that works nights and is good at his job,

I have a friend like that, very handy,

I wonder if they'd let me on the 5 axis cnc milling machine at uni :) we're meant to be using it later in the year to do projects on but hand milling for now
 
Will keep an eye on this, useful little thread. :)

Will be taking my Warn XP9.5 apart sometime in the new year. :confused:

It's easier than you might think .. 'cept in this case it was all rusty and heads breaking off etc .. even the tie bars bolts broke!

Very logical, very simple mechanisms .. so simple that they keep working when stuff's broken!! ;)

What I think has happened with my endplate is that the bearing had been almost welded to the motor shaft with rust, so when it came time for someone in the past to take it apart, the bearing housing broke. I suspect it had already been holed (see pics) allowing water in and rust to develop and came away with the motor shaft, see pic, which was why I was a bit confused to start with. Cleaning more of it revealed what should go where .. :)

Have an idea for a flatter, billet milled, rather than cast, plate and bearing housing .. doesn't have to be really precise so long as the centre is concentric to the drum and the mating surfaces flat. Bro (fabricator/welder) reckons he can make something up over the weekend .. so looking good .. ;)
 
So todays fun, well, couple of hours, has been to sort the bumper, steering guard and winch mount in preparation for it to be fixed and fitted. Looks like it's all a matter of straight cuts and basic general fabrication, so I might have the whole mount finished this weekend .. optimistic .. ;)

The tray came with the winch, but was used on a Defender and doesn't fit .. can't make out where or how it fitted, but it looks like it had two bars welded in to mount it that have been cut off previously. The green marks are marker pen, for my cutting lines. Two cuts, four welds and a couple of ends fixing between the tray and steering guard and job's a good 'un .. ;) All I've really been able to do so far is remove the steering guard and 'bits' around the bumper, offer them all up and see what fits, what doesn't, what needs cutting and what needs welding. The steering guard needed the Hi-lift tubes cutting off and grinding flat, the bumper will need a square hole cutting so the fairlead can poke through and that's about it!

I'm mounting it such that the whole winch fits behind the standard bumper, so no loss of approach angle at all, and will be bolted up using 12.9 grade M12 socket cap screws .. not the ****e that's loosely fitted in the pics. I'm aiming for it to be a direct-in-line pull between the centre of the chassis rails as I reckon that's where most load can be taken. With a bit of luck I'll only need a small hole cutting in the grille for the freespool/engagement lever, and a square hole in the bottom of the bumper to fit the fairlead through. No sweat!! ;)

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No they're solid bars, jacking points are tubes, I just cut mine off!

Fair enough, hard to see from the pics, my warn was a mess when I stripped it down, some one hadn't sealed the bolts there the wires connect and water had got in,
 
Todays couple of hours work have resulted in the winch being mocked up in the tray so I can mark what/where/how much to cut and weld. All fits nicely, though this is pretty loose, all bumper/steering guard bolts are just pushed in, not tightened up, as are the winch bolts, they’re all there just for position.

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All fits fine, so half an hours cutting, filing, grinding, welding, grinding and general fitting/fabbing etc later …

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All’s good, very strong VERY heavy .. bolted up loosely to check it all again ..

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All looks good, all fits correctly with space around and all bolts/nuts can be accessed easily enough! The roller fairlead needs a small roller on one end .. if anyone has a spare I’d be grateful! ;)

So all the bits are going to be removed, getting some decent M12 socket cap screws to bolt it all up, but needed it all there to measure length needed .. the M10’s in previously have been used and abused too much to trust for winching, I reckon .. ;) All will be cleaned up, but I can't afford parts for the winch yet, so I'll probably fit everything except the winch so I can use the Disco in the meantime.

Must admit, I wanted it to be well enclosed and am really very happy with the installation so far! The cable pull will be almost directly central in width and height to the chassis rail ends ... which is about ideal I reckon .. ;) Wondering about cutting the grille to get to the engagement handle, but I might be lucky and not need to, or I might cut it as minimally as possible, after all, it shouldn't need much use (HA!!!) .. or I might be able to make up so remote lever for it so the whole front end might look pretty much standard-ish .. just minus the valance etc .. ;)
 
That looks tops mate. :banana:

Really well hidden and discreet. keep up the good work. :D
 
lookin gd..but.......

its gonna be a bastid to get to to clean the rope/wire and you wont be able to see if/when the rope/wire snags on itself

me personally i like to be able to see whats goin on with me winch
 
lookin gd..but.......

its gonna be a bastid to get to to clean the rope/wire and you wont be able to see if/when the rope/wire snags on itself

me personally i like to be able to see whats goin on with me winch

Thought about that, looking at 'doing something' with the grille, so I can hinge it up or down to do exactly that.

OTOH, I might just live with it first and see what happens .. ;)
 
Had a look tonite in person and saw it in the flesh, Paul's done a nice job, it looks well sat in place, nice and subtle,

Well did till I borrowed the bolts fir the NATO hitch, (sorry)
 
Had a look tonite in person and saw it in the flesh, Paul's done a nice job, it looks well sat in place, nice and subtle,

Well did till I borrowed the bolts fir the NATO hitch, (sorry)

Heh, cheers mate ..

The bolts were fecked anyway ... ;)
 
Had a look tonite in person and saw it in the flesh, Paul's done a nice job, it looks well sat in place, nice and subtle,

Well did till I borrowed the bolts fir the NATO hitch, (sorry)

So its you thats bought the sankey then? ;)
 

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