i wonder if force 9 swivel hubs (which bolt to stock casings) will take a stock stub axle?

and if something could be bodgered up to work?

i really need a chat with ashcroft one day but have so much on my plate i cba with a big landy job right now!
 
Not a fan of D2 simply the diff pinion bearing spacing or lack of.

Never heard of breaking a chrome ball seen bolts stretch and break by hitting the end of a big tree at 60mph but 11.9 cap head bolts cured that!
 
Not a fan of D2 simply the diff pinion bearing spacing or lack of.

Never heard of breaking a chrome ball seen bolts stretch and break by hitting the end of a big tree at 60mph but 11.9 cap head bolts cured that!

exactly but ive done two

there is a theory that it could be the britpart/modern ones that are **** whereas original LR chrome were stonger

wish you could get them rechromed
 
No he broke a steering arm off the swivel housing. It was also a pre-production model axle and that component has already been strengthen.


Ello Andy!!

How's you doing?? Long time since I've seen you on here!

Hoping to get to a SCOR event next year as w all know how brilliant they are!!

Atb

Jai
 
If I had a reliable swivel option I would be more than happy to drive it like I stole it, whereas now I'm always proper scared a wheel is gonna fall off :eek:
 
No he broke a steering arm off the swivel housing. It was also a pre-production model axle and that component has already been strengthen.

Didn't he have a wheel fall of during KoH ? He broke a apparently unbreakable half shaft in Andorra this weekend too :p
 
Am I right in thinking that there is a sensor wire for the temperature and so when the engine is cold more fuel is injected to aid warm up and then decreased when the engine hits temperature ? If so what is this wire as I'm sure it's running rich ATM or am I making this up ? :p
 
Yeah mate the guage on the dash has one wire but the 14cux has a coolant sensor with two wires on a junior timer plug.

It is passenger side front of inlet mani near no1 runner

Again, you can check it with a multimeter at various temps but you need to stick the gas analyser up the zorst once you've

Checked all the sensors on the injection

Set the ignition timing correctly

Warmed the engine up properly.

Then you can tune the CO correctly using the adjuster on the MAF.

You can get them running good with a little fettle but if it stinks the shop out and melts you're eyes don't worry that's normal.
 
Yeah mate the guage on the dash has one wire but the 14cux has a coolant sensor with two wires on a junior timer plug.

It is passenger side front of inlet mani near no1 runner

Again, you can check it with a multimeter at various temps but you need to stick the gas analyser up the zorst once you've

Checked all the sensors on the injection

Set the ignition timing correctly

Warmed the engine up properly.

Then you can tune the CO correctly using the adjuster on the MAF.

You can get them running good with a little fettle but if it stinks the shop out and melts you're eyes don't worry that's normal.


Ok so guess what I did ...


The temp sensor and injector plugs were the wrong way round :doh: :doh:


Well that's solved my missfire and backfire problems and completely changed the exhaust note ... :D


#### :D
 
Yeah it's running a lot better now, I think running some redex through it has helped quite a lot it keeps getting better the more I run it :)

How hard is it to change a kickdown cable ? I seem to remember its sump off or is there an easier way ?

sump off and valve block, just ensure valve block is central by sliding it around with bolts not quite nipped up,before tightening them
 

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