jai_landrover · Oct 16, 2013

B.7. WHEELS.
B.7.1 Any brand / make of steel wheels are allowed but they must be of adequate strength, have a diameter matching that of factory fitted wheels for that model and have an offset between the outer flat of the nave plate and the external face of the bead area (not the outermost turned-out flange of the rim) of 4” / 102mm or less. Also any Land Rover produced / manufactured aluminium alloy wheels and matching wheel nuts may be used when suitable hubs for that wheel are fitted. (Implemented 1st January 2011)
B.7.2. The use of wheel spacers is prohibited. (Regardless of rules P.56.6 and J.5.8.2 in the MSA Yearbook 2012)

discomark10 · Oct 16, 2013

if you can have silly offset, why not spacers?

jai_landrover · Oct 16, 2013

Because LR never fitted spacers but they do fit 4'inch offset rims otherwise you could use both.

200tdi ayre · Oct 16, 2013

Awesome cheers jai

Yeah im gonna cut and weld them, well badically turn the inner ring round so its facing the opposite way for a trialling set of wheels, ill only use them offroad though

discomark10 · Oct 16, 2013

fit a set of d2 axles too, another 4 inch to be gained

jai_landrover · Oct 16, 2013

Becomes a nightmare to measure by officials quickly a blanket ban is easier.

jai_landrover · Oct 16, 2013

I'm turning rostyle rims inners around wont be 4 inch but better than std and super light keep that rotating mass down less stress on all components then and easier to get them spinning.

200tdi ayre · Oct 16, 2013

discomark10 said:
fit a set of d2 axles too, another 4 inch to be gained

Nah when I change axles I'm putting Toyota ones under, massively stronger

200tdi ayre · Oct 16, 2013

Tidier engine bay

jamesmartin · Oct 16, 2013

doesnt look bad did you get it running right ?

200tdi ayre · Oct 16, 2013

jamesmartin said:
doesnt look bad did you get it running right ?

Yeah it's running a lot better now, I think running some redex through it has helped quite a lot it keeps getting better the more I run it

How hard is it to change a kickdown cable ? I seem to remember its sump off or is there an easier way ?

200tdi ayre · Oct 16, 2013

WOOOO 100 pages

200tdi ayre · Oct 16, 2013

For the ECU wiring should I add a fuse on the constant live and ignition live or are they fused in the loom ? If so what amp fuses ?

jai_landrover · Oct 16, 2013

200tdi ayre said:
Nah when I change axles I'm putting Toyota ones under, massively stronger

Do lots of research before going that route.

80 series rears are bullet proof front is good but the CV's are weaker than early defenders however you can get them stronger with welding in rings and lots off faffing. Personally 4 pin front and rear Ashcroft everything in good cond you have to be an animal of a driver to kill that with 35 inch tyres or less.

Rear for out and out strength i'd stick to Salisbury rear with 35 splined inners and modified stubs to take 35 spline shafts.

If the motor weight is kept sensible you get away wih alot

jai_landrover · Oct 16, 2013

Although saliabury axles do bend when racing

200tdi ayre · Oct 16, 2013

You can get a set of Toyota axles and upgrade the cv's for £1K
The equivalent rover upgraded axles would be nearer £4 K

The weight and loss of ground clearance put me of sailsburys

jai_landrover · Oct 16, 2013

A mate has them on his challenge whibread jobbie.
his blue one was on the whitbread stand at the donnington show this year. my bro converted the axles for him to it his 90 and later fitted to his whitbred. std cvs went pop almost straight away on his 90. he jumpe a kerb and the front diff crownwheel n pinion shattered! And done another diff since I think. Dodgy toyota locker actuators caused him loadsa grief until they were locked in fully mechanically dispite this he swears by them! The money he has spent on them he could have easily gone Ashcroft with less hassle as he cannot do the fab work and had to pay out. For me £4k is a lot but 5 years no question replacements and still being rover legal the money is worth it everytime.

Mr Noisy · Oct 17, 2013

The daft thing is i run lockers and a heavy foot occasionally and im on 10/32 shafts and cvs and the only thing ive done is slightly twisted the diff end of a couple of shafts

breaking swivel balls is my biggest problem/worry and thats the only thing you cant buy a sure fire upgrade for

discomark10 · Oct 17, 2013

Mr Noisy said:
The daft thing is i run lockers and a heavy foot occasionally and im on 10/32 shafts and cvs and the only thing ive done is slightly twisted the diff end of a couple of shafts

breaking swivel balls is my biggest problem/worry and thats the only thing you cant buy a sure fire upgrade for

I'll say it once, I'll say it again, D2 axles! :flame:

Mr Noisy · Oct 17, 2013

yeah i looked a bit more into it the other day, but the extra width put me off, plus the different hub/pcd setup

im really stuck with what to do tbh

OR there is a notion that it is the britpart swivels i was using and if i use some bearmach OEM quality or similar i wont have any trouble, but of course it takes some finding out to find out

im planning to fit vented front discs and 110 calipers because i particularly want to fill my discs with mud but this will involve fitting 24 spline knuckles instead to mount the caliper, the 10 spline stubs and cvs etc will be fine inside them

the problem is i do not want to proceed to buy any more new parts until i have decided what im doing long term and i really cant decide!

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Coming in your ears.

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Coming in your ears.

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