tyregeezer

tyregeezer

Well-Known Member
Hi all picture as of today tdv6 seized engine everything removed from engine bay thats coming off only drivers engine mount coming off pipes and wires either stay with to body or come out with the engine gearbox and exhaust fighting to death left to do
IMG_7484.jpg
 
Massive respect to u for removing it with the body on, indeed only seen it done once before

really looking forward to the progress mate and thanks so much for sharing the piccies

will be an awesome thread to follow
 
No worries first auto i have done, engine comes out very complete this way minimum faffing comes out like any normal engine apart from removing sump and pick up but does take time otherwise i break things all work seen in photo was done in one long day ( because i made mistakes with the first one i did) but i knew that other people do it this way so is why i tried the first time
 
tyregeezer said:
No worries first auto i have done, engine comes out very complete this way minimum faffing comes out like any normal engine apart from removing sump and pick up but does take time otherwise i break things all work seen in photo was done in one long day ( because i made mistakes with the first one i did) but i knew that other people do it this way so is why i tried the first time
Click to expand...

i would be nervous listening to the engine crane creaking under the strain as that must be one hell of a heavy lump, so u take the gearbox out as well including the transfer box plse or do u take them off

really find these threads extremely interesting and just very grateful u taking the time taking pics , plus may i say to get that amount done in a day is very impressive

shame ur not closer otherwise would have cheekily asked to have come and had a look

look forward to the piccies of ur progress , will u be fitting a jag lump plse or can u rebuild this one

many thks
 
Hi gstuart yes about 200 kg i think but have chains and a got hoist will post more pics engine is seized so will strip if it has not destroyed itself my guess it has i may get a machine shop to check out what can be done quite interested in finding out exactly the cost of crank re-polish, hone, shells, etc if not yes jag or d3 replacement and keep this one for parts TY
 
Hi all removed exhaust and cross member about to take off transfer box easier than doing together with box at my age the picture shows access to cross over pipe brackets and bell housing bolts. Top bolts and two centre support bolts can be access from above also note wiring which needs to be removed/unplugged from gearbox and transfer box there is no plug from engine loom this then all comes out with engine. After the transfer box is out of the way your head can now fit in this space gearbox lowered as much as possible at this point it gives you room and better access to remaining boll housing bolts and centre support bracket, cross over pipe stays with engine also breather tubes gear linkage, propshafts, removed earlier this as far as i have got will keep you posted TY
thumbnail (8).jpg
 
tyregeezer said:
Hi all removed exhaust and cross member about to take off transfer box easier than doing together with box at my age the picture shows access to cross over pipe brackets and bell housing bolts. Top bolts and two centre support bolts can be access from above also note wiring which needs to be removed/unplugged from gearbox and transfer box there is no plug from engine loom this then all comes out with engine. After the transfer box is out of the way your head can now fit in this space gearbox lowered as much as possible at this point it gives you room and better access to remaining boll housing bolts and centre support bracket, cross over pipe stays with engine also breather tubes gear linkage, propshafts, removed earlier this as far as i have got will keep you posted TYView attachment 256507
Click to expand...

many thks for the update plus great pic, funny enough am doing work on my turbo so understand the tight access , found a split turbo air intake pipe , thank god I don’t need to remove the metal intercooler pipe as the upper wishbone and ABS pump need to come out

can see the pipe in ur first pic with the battery terminal in front , that’s the split pipe I’m trying to change, also just noticed that metal pipe behind to the right hand side

ref that plastic turbo air intake pipe, assume you’ve already removed the rubber gasket , only reason I mentioned the gasket just in case it’s missing

following with great interest and thks again for sharing pics of ur progress
 
hi gstuart yes removed or i would lose it little labeled tubs everywhere. Turbos can be a chore the pipes you mentioned are a real pain have done a couple of turbos and struggled with seized bolts on exhaust and turbo bracket when you take the engine out you dont have to remove pipes or turbo i think with this engine you just need to be persistent and patient good luck with your task TY
 
tyregeezer said:
hi gstuart yes removed or i would lose it little labeled tubs everywhere. Turbos can be a chore the pipes you mentioned are a real pain have done a couple of turbos and struggled with seized bolts on exhaust and turbo bracket when you take the engine out you dont have to remove pipes or turbo i think with this engine you just need to be persistent and patient good luck with your task TY
Click to expand...

thats great and I can imagine with all the labels etc , funny enough my pops taught me that regarding nuts and bolts, to put them back where they came from, or as you’ve done liable or container

many thks , think I’ve now got everything I need , won’t be changing that metal pipe though because of the hassle getting it out

also wondering once I remove the turbo pipes if I can spray inside with some turbo cleaner, got a aerosol can of turbo/ Egr cleaner , plus whilst I was bored I fitted some new insulation on the engine plastic cover, seeing the old stuff virtually fell off ,used all my offcuts , as have a new roll for underneath the bonnet and didn’t want to use any part of the roll,

I’m also tempted to spray the 6 x raised secrion if the plastic engine cover ??, plus ensured all the T bolt clamps and jubilee clips , nuts , bolts were all stainless steel , got the marine grade

suppose I’m just trying to do everything I can to ensure there isn’t an issue

thks again and look forward to ur progress

67D7A7B8-B66A-4029-9765-9CF917165B0F.jpeg
E0EA2CDA-7E0D-4927-A045-DD888DD1E4F5.jpeg
AD50F9B3-64D0-4A95-9B01-02A7C4FE7399.jpeg
 
Hi all quick update been sidetracked over last few days had a change of plan am going to try to remove engine and box together (transfer box removed) auto box does not allow you to lower as much as a manual. Auto gearbox touches a cross member limiting room above, but still possible. If it will come out together it will save undoing lots of awkward bolts and should go back in you would think i am still learning but it seems to me the bigger chunks you can take out the better as one thing leads to another. Went out to look at a s type for the 2.7 (but was noisey) but ended up buying a 3.0 xf with a snapped timing belt tensioner failed its now in the queue will post pics of timing covers tomorrow TY
 
trans.jpg
t covers.jpg
Hi all transfer box off today everything off at this point apart from engine mounts gearbox on jack i used the tools i made for removing turbo engine in get to the top bolts planning on fitting lifting cradle mk2 over next few days so will see how it works out will let you know. Also added picture of 306dt timing covers i would have thought you might have noticed a unusual sound timing belt tensioner pulley failed but not fully running the belt into timing cover which stopped it coming off for a while
 
tyregeezer said:
View attachment 256914 View attachment 256916 Hi all transfer box off today everything off at this point apart from engine mounts gearbox on jack i used the tools i made for removing turbo engine in get to the top bolts planning on fitting lifting cradle mk2 over next few days so will see how it works out will let you know. Also added picture of 306dt timing covers i would have thought you might have noticed a unusual sound timing belt tensioner pulley failed but not fully running the belt into timing cover which stopped it coming off for a while
Click to expand...

I had the exact same thing happen to my range rover sport I took a gamble and had nothing to lose as I had a replacement engine ready and waiting so I put a set of camshafts and cam caps on along with new oil pump and all other gubbins and it runs drives and works fine! I was doing 60mph when mine let go!! No noise no nothing. Just thought I'd mention I've now got a 56 jag s type 2.7 tdv6 86,000 miles full history as a complete car sat in my garage that I'll be putting on ebay soon just thought I'd mention it great effort by the way. Good read
 
Hi @tyregeezer

fantastic job there mate and bet that was fun getting the transfer case out, hats off to u

apologises asking and really hope I’m not being cheeky in asking plse but I’ve got to trace the map sensor wiring etc and been trying to work out it’s route from the map sensor location to the ECM

Also got to trace the turbo wiring loom as it comes up the side of the engine and then again into the ECM

trying to work out if the main engine loom goes up and into that plastic boxing by the scuttle panel or across the engine and then into the ECM

once again apologises for asking , but on the off chance if u get chance would u mind looking for me please , im pretty sure I’ve got a broken/ bad wire somewhere in the engine loom, I can see me opening the entire engine loom by taking it out of its plastic conduit , plus to be honest conduit it’s very brittle so wouldn’t hurt me replacing it at the same time

just wondered if you’ve taken any more pictures plse , , would be an enormous favour if your able to see where that engine loom goes plse , turbo loom disappears

thks a million and once again I really hope u didn’t mind me asking and not being cheeky in any way, it’s just with pictures I’ll be able to see where the loom goes

following ur thread with great interest , stay safe and well mate

ps, I’m at the stage now with the turbo intercooler metal pipe and air inlet pipe removed , managed to unplug the turbo actuator , so as I’ve now got access will be an ideal time to use a multimeter to test each and every wire of the sensors , ie, Map, Maf, throttle body, turbo, etc etc for continuity , thks again
 
Last edited:
HI thanks wow no warning at all what damage did it do, did it bend valves. Seems like the belts last longer than the tensioner, the idlers also have bearing movement. bought one with a cam chain snapped with no damage to valves but had to strip to find all the bits. Yes i am also looking for a low mileage s type will take the motor out maybe at the weekend if i can get away from work TY
 
tyregeezer said:
HI thanks wow no warning at all what damage did it do, did it bend valves. Seems like the belts last longer than the tensioner, the idlers also have bearing movement. bought one with a cam chain snapped with no damage to valves but had to strip to find all the bits. Yes i am also looking for a low mileage s type will take the motor out maybe at the weekend if i can get away from work TY
Click to expand...

Yep no warning at all! It still tried to turn over and I could see the camshaft turning through the oil filler cap but it was moving up and down as I was cranking, so I stripped it down and had snapped cam caps and bent cam shafts so I replaced them carried out compression test and all good! I don't envy you having to drop the engine out but if you're looking for an s type then drop me a message as like I say this one in my garage is surplus to requirement now, it was my uncles who passed away and I got it off my dad to have in case I needed the engine.
 
Hi gstuart all the engine/gearbox/transfer box wiring plug in where you said behind battery (photo 1) apart from 2 sensors on top of motor. You could test continuity between turbo and these plugs, by tracing colours (all quite seeable at plugs) this gets your issue out of the engine compartment . Most of the landrovers i have worked on have stood for a while and i use one of those electrical cleaner sprays before i replug every thing check plugs as you go.wiring.jpg
wiring.jpg
2nd photo is where i think the turbo wires reappear they then run across the injectors joining the main part of the loom will add more pics when i pull motor hope this helps anything pics just ask no worries TY
w route.jpg
w route.jpg
 
tyregeezer said:
Hi gstuart all the engine/gearbox/transfer box wiring plug in where you said behind battery (photo 1) apart from 2 sensors on top of motor. You could test continuity between turbo and these plugs, by tracing colours (all quite seeable at plugs) this gets your issue out of the engine compartment . Most of the landrovers i have worked on have stood for a while and i use one of those electrical cleaner sprays before i replug every thing check plugs as you go.View attachment 257098 View attachment 257098 2nd photo is where i think the turbo wires reappear they then run across the injectors joining the main part of the loom will add more pics when i pull motor hope this helps anything pics just ask no worries TY View attachment 257099 View attachment 257099
Click to expand...

hiya

ur a legend and can’t even begin to say how grateful I am to u, a massive thks

Indeed very helpful as couldn't quite see where some of the looms went , today I got my neighbour to kindly remove my battery , it’s an 019 so bloody heavy and simply wouldn’t be able to lift it , thereafter I got the TCM out as when I removed the connectors a while back on reconnection I got a mirage of TCM errors,

it started to rain so thought no point working in the cold , so took the TCM indoors and cleaned every pin one by one, using mannol contact cleaner and carefully with some terminal files

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...t-control-solenoid.376751/page-2#post-5313357

that would be awesome when u pull the motor out please with some more pictures , it really helps in identifying them

must admit when it’s a nice day will as u also suggest do a continuity test between the ECM and turbo actuator , will also smoke test my intercooler on its own to prove if it’s leaking or not, also looking forward to start using that Curien N2 I just got

honestly mate I’m so grateful, would u mind if I ask what ur name it please, of course if u don’t want to that’s fine, I’m gary by the way

put a link of the thread I’ve done, felt it would be rude if I started filling ur thread with my pics so thought I’ll just share the link

Sterling job ur doing there and really interesting

thks so much once again for the pics and information
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Discovery 4 TDV6 - shuddering engine, no acceleration/won’t rev
Replies
7
Views
1K
tyregeezer
tyregeezer
A
1995 Discovery 300TDI Engine Issue - Thoughts
Replies
2
Views
510
shaynecm
S
D
2006 RRS 2.7 tdv6 gearbox help please
2 3
Replies
54
Views
4K
dave7494
D
J
Help please! Electrical issue with 1995 Defender 110 County, 300 tdi
2
Replies
28
Views
790
GRATCH
GRATCH
C
Freelander 2 (LR2) Engine Removal Sequence
Replies
4
Views
2K
pwood999
pwood999