Simply unplug the injector loom connector on the front of the cam carrier and the engine wont fire. So long as the fuel system is purged the TD5 will run at idle (not with any power) even if you pull the fuel pump fuse.
Crank on the starter in short bursts and once the oil pressure lamp goes out then you should have oil everywhere it needs to be before firing.
By all means leave the cam carrier cover off and lightly oil the cam lobes while turning the engine over but dont fire it with the cover off or you will have oil everywhere but in the engine - ask me how I know.

The reason they only fitted four glows and not five is because they needed to fit the fuel pressure regulator to the head with access to the internal fuel galleries which was easiest on cylinder 5 leaving no room for a glow plug. Pulling the glows will reduce load on the starter for initial turn over but I've never bothered as you will not be cranking for very long before oil pressure comes up. Just make sure you have a good battery and/or booster cables.
 
Shifty1962 said:
By all means leave the cam carrier cover off and lightly oil the cam lobes while turning the engine over but dont fire it with the cover off or you will have oil everywhere but in the engine - ask me how I know.
Click to expand...

Yeah absolutely make sure you refit prior to firing the engine.

Another one to not forget about is the turbo oil feed, that sure makes a mess is left unconnected whilst cranking :screaming_bug_eye_f
 
Yes Ive seen the Youtube of some guys firing up a TD5 without the cam cover on....daft!

I had meant to fit the glow plugs before I dropped the lump back in, but forgot, so I may crank it without them anyway.

Still got a final few bits to order so I have them for the weekend, D seals for the water pump, set of hose clips, locking pins.

Cant wait to get behind the wheel again....with the engine running!
 
Great thread mate. Not long before you hear that purr again. Got my Td5 out yesterday. Didn't have any probs before it came out but do you think it worth changing these seals that caused your problems whilst it's out.
 
defenderdog said:
Great thread mate. Not long before you hear that purr again. Got my Td5 out yesterday. Didn't have any probs before it came out but do you think it worth changing these seals that caused your problems whilst it's out.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Well Ive changed just about every seal on the engine, last parts arrived yesterday, D seal kit for the water pump, O rings for the fuel lines, I think Ive even changed the O ring on the dipstick tube!

The problem was a cracked head causing the fuel leak rather than the injector seals, but yes the injector seals/fire washers are being changed too!

I would get in the habit of changing the injector seals on a yearly basis, they are pretty easy to do and the parts are cheap.
 
markomate2 said:
Thanks! Well Ive changed just about every seal on the engine, last parts arrived yesterday, D seal kit for the water pump, O rings for the fuel lines, I think Ive even changed the O ring on the dipstick tube!

The problem was a cracked head causing the fuel leak rather than the injector seals, but yes the injector seals/fire washers are being changed too!

I would get in the habit of changing the injector seals on a yearly basis, they are pretty easy to do and the parts are cheap.
Click to expand...

Cheers for that. Did you get the rest of your seals done? Where are you getting all your parts from. I've just ordered sump,rocker cover gaskets from flea bay and of coarse a injector loom as it has the dreaded oil but I would like one reliable place as I'm doing a full chassis swap.
Keep up the good work. 👍
 
Hi
All engine bits from Turners. Their pricing seems ok, I replaced the timing chain/guides/sprockets etc and everything arrived in LR packaging at good prices too!

Other little bits from Britcar, again all genuine.

Pretty much done now, yesterday mated the engine and box, properly this time, lots of jiggling about but I learned a new trick, as follows:

Remove the stud that's sticks out of the bell housing, its for mounting the started motor and all it does is get in the way!

Fit the LH (viewed from the rear) engine mount to the engine bracket, not the chassis.

DO NOT fit the RH mount.

Lower the engine slowly, let it pivot on the LH mount until its at the correct angle to mate with the box.

Gently jiggle the engine and if you have assistance, the gear box, and push the engine towards the box, should mate ok.

Today was spent fitting everything back, all fluids in ok, no leaks so far!

Oil pressure light went off after 30 seconds cranking, injector plug, unplugged!

Wont bloody start though! Its probably the crank sensor, CPS, I noticed that the Muppets who did the gearbox swap had "repaired" the wires from the plug, I'm pretty sure the repair has broken, ill sort it Monday.

Other "minor" thing is fuel steadily dripping from the tank! Its probably coming from the fuel pump, somehow, I did a few purges before I noticed it, the whole of the bottom of the tank is darker, so its probably been doing it for a while!

So fingers crossed it will be running Monday!
 
It was the CPS wires. Spliced ok for now, ill do a proper repair soon.
Started after a purge.
Not much smoke, now none at all!
Was very smooth but missing a bit after she got warm, so I'm guessing injector loom, and the fuel leak prob from the pump piping is going to let air in, so ill sort that as well.
But pretty happy!
 
Great thread!
Had my 15p head welded up by the guy on eb*y too (cracked in same place as yours).
I've done 30,000 miles trouble free since then. :)

IMG_20130729_193230_0_zpsdde548a5.jpg
 
Thanks for the feedback. Bit more work to do but it will have to wait a couple of weeks.
I have a theory that more 15P heads will need repairing as more injector seals are changed and the plunger gap is set to low. I've backed my adjusting screws back 2 turns not 1 seemed to be ok, it's dead easy to adjust if it's not right.
Funny how the heads all seem to crack at no1 pocket!
 
markomate said:
Thanks for the feedback. Bit more work to do but it will have to wait a couple of weeks.
I have a theory that more 15P heads will need repairing as more injector seals are changed and the plunger gap is set to low. I've backed my adjusting screws back 2 turns not 1 seemed to be ok, it's dead easy to adjust if it's not right.
Funny how the heads all seem to crack at no1 pocket!
Click to expand...
I think you are right there. I've been running mine at 1.5 turns with no issues for two years now.
 
When I read the earlier posts I backed mine off 1.5 turns, but it clattered on the top end and I noticed that it blew out a cloud of smoke if I accelerate hard , mostly when cold.
Put it back to exactly one turn and it is now quieter, and I don't see the exhaust smoke though I don't know why that would be related.
Thinking about this the pressure the cam applies to the injector plunger should press directly down along the axis of the plunger , not move it side to side backing it off more would just restrict the maximum the injector could deliver by cutting down the stroke, pressure would be the same as the force the cam applies to the plunger would be the same, but the travel distance would be less.
Bit like pressing a syringe half way or all the way but using exactly the same force.
 
Last edited:
raywin said:
When I read the earlier posts I backed mine off 1.5 turns, but it clattered on the top end and I noticed that it blew out a cloud of smoke if I accelerate hard , mostly when cold.
Put it back to exactly one turn and it is now quieter, and I don't see the exhaust smoke though I don't know why that would be related.
Thinking about this the pressure the cam applies to the injector plunger should press directly down along the axis of the plunger , not move it side to side backing it off more would just restrict the maximum the injector could deliver by cutting down the stroke, pressure would be the same as the force the cam applies to the plunger would be the same, but the travel distance would be less.
Bit like pressing a syringe half way or all the way but using exactly the same force.
Click to expand...
Can't say I've noticed any clattering or smoke issues but I am a tad mutton and don't use my mirrors much ;)
 
I'll see how mine goes. When it first started it was very smooth and revved nicely, but as it got warm it started to misfire. Ive put it down to the injector loom and the fuel leak.
If it still does it after Ive put the new loom on and sorted the leak, ill try adjusting them back 1/2 turn. It ran for ok 12K miles after I did the seals last year with 1 turn back.
 
wvanzyl said:
I enjoyed your thread on the rebuild. You've done a brilliant job.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Its been an education! Quite enjoyable, now I'm back up to speed on engines I'm thinking, "well it would be fun to do another"
But I think the credit card has done a hell of a lot of the work!
Looking over the final costings, I can conclude if it happened again, Id probably sell the car for spares/repairs on Ebay!
 
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