markomate2
Well-Known Member
Fitting the rear crank oil seal. Its supplied with a yellow insert, this is the "tool" you need to fit it, slide the yellow part over the crank and gently slide the seal on. Tighten bolt in sequence to correct torque.
markomate2
Well-Known Member
Fitting the sump. Put sealant as shown in RAVE. Fit sump and tighten the bolts in sequence.
markomate2
Well-Known Member
So that's all you can do with the bottom end until its taken off the stand.
Now assemble the head ready for fitting. I had to fit the head after the block had been taken outside, the head is heavy and could only just move the stand even without it fitted!
Clean the injector ports copper ring mating surface with emery, clean, clean and clean again! Finish with IPA.
Ive shown the before/after valve lapping, I only used fine past and the old sucky stick!
Also shown is the oil feed non return valve, because the head had been machined I got a bit worried that dwarf had got into the oil ways, to remove the valve carefully drill it out, tap in the new one, use a 7mm deep socket as a drift, sounds simple, took me two effing hours!
Now assemble the head ready for fitting. I had to fit the head after the block had been taken outside, the head is heavy and could only just move the stand even without it fitted!
Clean the injector ports copper ring mating surface with emery, clean, clean and clean again! Finish with IPA.
Ive shown the before/after valve lapping, I only used fine past and the old sucky stick!
Also shown is the oil feed non return valve, because the head had been machined I got a bit worried that dwarf had got into the oil ways, to remove the valve carefully drill it out, tap in the new one, use a 7mm deep socket as a drift, sounds simple, took me two effing hours!
Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
Them pesky dwarfs can get into some very tight spaces - lol
markomate2
Well-Known Member
:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi
Bloody auto correct! I was going to edit it but I think ill leave it now.... oh hang on, better say, I'm not taking the pxss out of dwarfs! Because of course Tyrion Lannister is bloody awesome!
markomate2
Well-Known Member
More of the head build up.
Valves in, new oil seals, everything else original, except No1 valve, which was bent, possibly by me
Getting the valve stem collets in was fiddle, put some assembly lube on them first and they will stick to the valve stem, first one took 5 mins, last one took, 10 seconds!
Valves in, new oil seals, everything else original, except No1 valve, which was bent, possibly by me
Getting the valve stem collets in was fiddle, put some assembly lube on them first and they will stick to the valve stem, first one took 5 mins, last one took, 10 seconds!
markomate2
Well-Known Member
Fitting camshaft top cover.
Clean everything, again! Then use the special Hylomar (£35!), roll it out thin. Fit the cam and top plate. Fit bolts, torque down in sequence in RAVE.
Do not get sealant on cam bearings or galleries. Do not use cheap blue Hylomar, there is a thread on Pistonheads with a reply from Hylomar about why the special stuff must be used on metal/metal joints.
Clean everything, again! Then use the special Hylomar (£35!), roll it out thin. Fit the cam and top plate. Fit bolts, torque down in sequence in RAVE.
Do not get sealant on cam bearings or galleries. Do not use cheap blue Hylomar, there is a thread on Pistonheads with a reply from Hylomar about why the special stuff must be used on metal/metal joints.
markomate2
Well-Known Member
That's all the assembly work that I could do indoors, luckily the rain held off last weekend so the rest was done outside. I live near to Shuttleworth, the Vulcan and the Spitfire were buzzing around, fantastic, but a sad reminder of days when the UK had a decent engineering industry!
Getting the block outside was not easy, my engine stand wont fit through doors! Anyway, bit of creative thinking and a hand from a passing mate, and it was outside.
Head installed first, 5 steps to tightening the bolts, you will need a lot of leverage!
After the first two steps which are torque set, the rest are by angle, Ive found the best way is to use your finger as a mark, before you start mark each bolt location with the sequence number, and put a dot next to it to show which step you are at.
When your done refit the cover to keep the dust out.
Getting the block outside was not easy, my engine stand wont fit through doors! Anyway, bit of creative thinking and a hand from a passing mate, and it was outside.
Head installed first, 5 steps to tightening the bolts, you will need a lot of leverage!
After the first two steps which are torque set, the rest are by angle, Ive found the best way is to use your finger as a mark, before you start mark each bolt location with the sequence number, and put a dot next to it to show which step you are at.
When your done refit the cover to keep the dust out.
markomate2
Well-Known Member
Engine lifted from stand, no lifting eyes on mine so I bolted it as shown.
Flywheel and clutch on, not so subtle message to the people who are going to be sorting out my leaking gearbox when its back on the road! Last time they dropped the box out they bent a brand new plate!
Ah yes, quick mention that for timing the crank is at TDC with No1 in firing position. Locking pins coming but you can't install the flywheel one yet!
Oil cooler, manifolds etc back on.
Flywheel and clutch on, not so subtle message to the people who are going to be sorting out my leaking gearbox when its back on the road! Last time they dropped the box out they bent a brand new plate!
Ah yes, quick mention that for timing the crank is at TDC with No1 in firing position. Locking pins coming but you can't install the flywheel one yet!
Oil cooler, manifolds etc back on.
markomate2
Well-Known Member
So now it all started going a little pear shaped!
Basically my equipment is not big enough! I only have..a 1 tone crane, it doesn't really have the reach even at 250 Kg setting.
When I took the engine out, it was not a problem, if fact it pulled apart the engine ands box nicely, but doing the reverse...arhhhhhhhhhhh!
Also without the weight of the engine, the front of the car has slowly risen up, so my mm clearance from last time has become -100mm!!
More lateral thinking and I was running out of time!.
Dropped the car, used a wooden pick axe (actually an Adze) handle to lever the engine towards the box, did it in the end, quick tip, attached the mounts to the engine mounting brackets first, its the reverse of the removal.
I had to juggle the crane, two trolley jacks, one on the gearbox one of the front axle, its just about do able, But if I did it again I would get a two ton crane, some mates help, or a better paid job, and let someone else do it!
So its in, it was dark when I was done, last two pics show long exposure so it looks light followed by what it was actually like.
Hope to finish in two weeks!
Basically my equipment is not big enough! I only have..a 1 tone crane, it doesn't really have the reach even at 250 Kg setting.
When I took the engine out, it was not a problem, if fact it pulled apart the engine ands box nicely, but doing the reverse...arhhhhhhhhhhh!
Also without the weight of the engine, the front of the car has slowly risen up, so my mm clearance from last time has become -100mm!!
More lateral thinking and I was running out of time!.
Dropped the car, used a wooden pick axe (actually an Adze) handle to lever the engine towards the box, did it in the end, quick tip, attached the mounts to the engine mounting brackets first, its the reverse of the removal.
I had to juggle the crane, two trolley jacks, one on the gearbox one of the front axle, its just about do able, But if I did it again I would get a two ton crane, some mates help, or a better paid job, and let someone else do it!
So its in, it was dark when I was done, last two pics show long exposure so it looks light followed by what it was actually like.
Hope to finish in two weeks!
raywin
Well-Known Member
Looking close now, thanks for all the pictures and info, bet it will feel great when it fires up first time and ticks like a clock.
I was looking at the pictures of the sealant in the oil channels, obviously it did not prove to be a show stopper, but its a concern restricting the oil ways like that, if you look around you can find some threads concerning scored cam shafts ( including my own) , wonder if this may be related: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f50/td5-injector-rockers-common-problem-266528.html
I work with large compressors and we seal metal face to face with Loctite 5203 it works well but it also remains liquid in the presence of air, and any that goes into the oil channels is washed out by the oil when it is started up, leaving the channel clear this amount is quite small and does not adversely affect the oil.
We have also found by experience that using a roller to apply the sealant as you did here is the most effective way to seal it well, just putting a thin bead of sealant and then bringing the faces together can give some problems of uneven coverage.
We used to use silicone, and it works great if applied well but too many people want to use just a bit more and you can end up with slugs of silicone squeezed into the works, also car manufacturers don't allow silicone on any site where painting take place.
I was looking at the pictures of the sealant in the oil channels, obviously it did not prove to be a show stopper, but its a concern restricting the oil ways like that, if you look around you can find some threads concerning scored cam shafts ( including my own) , wonder if this may be related: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f50/td5-injector-rockers-common-problem-266528.html
I work with large compressors and we seal metal face to face with Loctite 5203 it works well but it also remains liquid in the presence of air, and any that goes into the oil channels is washed out by the oil when it is started up, leaving the channel clear this amount is quite small and does not adversely affect the oil.
We have also found by experience that using a roller to apply the sealant as you did here is the most effective way to seal it well, just putting a thin bead of sealant and then bringing the faces together can give some problems of uneven coverage.
We used to use silicone, and it works great if applied well but too many people want to use just a bit more and you can end up with slugs of silicone squeezed into the works, also car manufacturers don't allow silicone on any site where painting take place.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
From what I've seen (and experienced) I think this is more down to incorrect oil/ or poor service history.
Never use low SAPS oil. Try and use oil that is recommended for PD engines.
SierraFery on here also recommends the latter.
raywin
Well-Known Member
I found one lobe and one cam follower scored first time I opened up the rocker cover, so I don't know when it happened. I bought a second hand rocket shaft and used one of the rocker arms from that as a temp measure to give me a bit of time, but its been on a few months now and there are no marks on the "new" rocker.
I have been using Halfords 5w 30 fully synth oil, which seems to be OK, if you download the data sheet from their site it is from Comma so it seems that the rumors are correct.
markomate2
Well-Known Member
Hi Yes Ive always used 5w 30 fully synth.
I was thinking of ways of pre oiling the engine before firing it up. I guess I'll do what I used to do with petrol engines, leave the glow plugs out (or spark plugs!), unplug injector harness and crank till I'm happy oil is getting everywhere it should.
Unless that's not recommended with a TD5?
Looking forward to next weekend....I think!
I was thinking of ways of pre oiling the engine before firing it up. I guess I'll do what I used to do with petrol engines, leave the glow plugs out (or spark plugs!), unplug injector harness and crank till I'm happy oil is getting everywhere it should.
Unless that's not recommended with a TD5?
Looking forward to next weekend....I think!
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raywin
Well-Known Member
It's always a good idea to spin it over with minimum load on the bearings and get the oil system primed, taking out the plugs is good but they are only installed in four of the cylinders on this engine, don't know why they did that, I imagine it hat taking the load off four cylinders is better than none at all.
I have seen somewhere about taking out a relay to stop it firing up probably to shut down the in tank pump, I am sure someone here will have experience of doing this.
I have seen somewhere about taking out a relay to stop it firing up probably to shut down the in tank pump, I am sure someone here will have experience of doing this.
markomate2
Well-Known Member
Cheers, probably just thinking back to my Mini days, there was a procedure you had to do with plugs out, lots of cranking and checking the pressure, after a full rebuild.
markomate2
Well-Known Member
Id agree with that, the cam rollers are fed with oil from a small hole on top of the hydraulic lash assemblies, it feeds oil to the roller rocker through an even smaller hole! Poor quality/dirty oil could block these holes.
