Which doors?
Early lift up
Or
Later push button?

Push button. The skin is shot on the hinge. Theres bound to be other stuff along the line. I'm going to spend an eve up there one day this week. I have a brake pipe union that's on a bracket on bulkhead to remove, them have to drill passenger door. Once that's done It's ready to lift.
 
Waiting on mr cradock for me stub axle bolts so cracked on with the hub. Bought these too as I'm sure my in ear ones aren't up to it. Few pics

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LOLZ I nearly put my length of box section through one of my windows yesterday, all fingers and thumbs with them new gauntlets on.

Making good progress with the hub rebuild, If you can get them easily enough then get some speedisleeves for the stub axle seal lands, they used to be much cheaper than a new stub but not so sure these days, easy way to get you out of a bind if you get a ropey seal land and need to get it fixed pronto.
 
Didn't know they existed. Will read. Yeah gauntlets are so clumsy aren't they. I cleaned up the seal lands to a polished finish pretty much. Bearing seats need a touch more work. There's a tiny Nick in its minimal. I've scotched it up a bit and sprayed over with oil again just to keep fresh. I want these bolts so I can start assembly. Going to put the diff on it in lobby then coat the lot with corroless on a good day before fitting
 
The next bank draining parts on the list are:

new rear calipers
rear trailing arm bushes
chassis paint
a frame fulcrum
a frame arm bushes
braided lines
brake pipe tool
brake pipe kit

I've decided I'm going to do the boot floor near enough last. there's no need for me to seal it all up and I think that it will get in my way until I'm done on the rear. Once axle is in and chassis welded, I will move over to the OS repairs for some Deja vu.
 
Hub work. Thanks lrtv - this man is on my tv quite a lot. :D

This paint doesn't seem to go down :)
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Blacked

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Cleaned up and installed races. Installed disc and torqued to 76nm

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Inner bearing greased and fitted. Hub seal set 4mm down because the computer said so
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Boxed and bagged. Roberts your mother's sibling.
 
Hub work. Thanks lrtv - this man is on my tv quite a lot. :D

This paint doesn't seem to go down :)
View attachment 160519

Blacked

View attachment 160520

Cleaned up and installed races. Installed disc and torqued to 76nm

View attachment 160521

Inner bearing greased and fitted. Hub seal set 4mm down because the computer said so
View attachment 160522
Boxed and bagged. Roberts your mother's sibling.

Been there a few rimes, it's quite satisfying to get them rebuilt and ready to fit isn't it :)

Re the brake pipe flaring and bending kit, I've got a kit you can borrow as and when you need it, unless you want to buy your own of course, it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling making up brake lines :)
 
Been there a few rimes, it's quite satisfying to get them rebuilt and ready to fit isn't it :)

Re the brake pipe flaring and bending kit, I've got a kit you can borrow as and when you need it, unless you want to buy your own of course, it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling making up brake lines :)

Thanks. Do I need to go braided because of lift or is that just a money spin? Surely I can just make them a tad longer than std? Also, I followed instructions to a t but is the inner bearing supposed to be able to move around freely on a lateral plane between the separator and the seal? It's the same on the one I'm yet to strip and I'd assumed it was to prevent binding/seizure?
 
Thanks. Do I need to go braided because of lift or is that just a money spin? Surely I can just make them a tad longer than std? Also, I followed instructions to a t but is the inner bearing supposed to be able to move around freely on a lateral plane between the separator and the seal? It's the same on the one I'm yet to strip and I'd assumed it was to prevent binding/seizure?

Braided are merely an option, you can drop the mounting plates to give the flexy pipes more travel as you rebuild the panels.
 

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