discomark10
Well-Known Member
Sexy swivels mate!
I wonder.. I dream of good rockers, mine are ok but could be better.
if they are by chance in good condition would you consider passing them on?
I wonder.. I dream of good rockers, mine are ok but could be better.
if they are by chance in good condition would you consider passing them on?
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Hey mate
I do need the rockers for this engine, unless I end up with more but most heads are supplied without
I don't think the rockers are that good anyway tbh, what would you describe as good?
These have a light step in the shaft, a valve mark on the pad and seem to have some play BUT I haven't fully inspected them tbh
I do need the rockers for this engine, unless I end up with more but most heads are supplied without
I don't think the rockers are that good anyway tbh, what would you describe as good?
These have a light step in the shaft, a valve mark on the pad and seem to have some play BUT I haven't fully inspected them tbh
700Quid
Active Member
However, something's rustling in the workshop:
Very early stages (read:just pulled out of the corner after 18 months) of a future engine build.
Gonna strip this down to the bare block and sell/scrap bits I don't need, keep myself entertained
Leaning towards a V8 for my next project... Are you replacing the liners on this one? If so how are the new ones "Shrunk in"? I've done a google on it but couldn't find much....
700Quid
Active Member
It's a 3.5 mate so won't need any serious work, just a 20thou rebore to bust that lip
I really don't know much about engine work if I'm honest so couldn't answer your question, where's JM?
and the special sauce....
are you replacing anything else? changing the cam etc? going old school with carbs?...
discomark10
Well-Known Member
3.5's don't have liner problems, its the 3.9's up..
If you're going to re liner one, it might as well be a 4.6 and give it a top hat liner as it solves the problem with slipping liners
If you're going to re liner one, it might as well be a 4.6 and give it a top hat liner as it solves the problem with slipping liners
700Quid
Active Member
Slippery Liner... suit you sir!! :drum:
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
and the special sauce....
Disclaimer:
Don't expect to see any serious progress with this engine this year.
Looooong term plan is rebore +20 with either 8.13 or 9.35 pistons once decided, serp crank/front end, 4.6 heads with valve train work to accommodate blower cam and probably a jaguar sourced eaton m112
This whole thing will purely depend on funds, time, boredom and other repairs /mods etc to the car, because it is completely unnecessary.
Still got lots to do and I have a great engine installed as we speak.
The amount of things that will need altering for forced induction is more than meets the eye so it's not something that will happen overnight.
But, once I've cleared the decks of the engine parts I don't need, it'll be easier for me to collect the bits I do need.
First job will be to build the short motor.
Cheers
700Quid
Active Member
I was just wondering how they shrink fit liners? Is it a case of uniformly heating the block before inserting the liner then letting the block shrink back as it cools?
It seems there are a million things you can do to improve the RV8 to firstly get it back to 165 bhp then onwards to 200 bhp... Could just start with a Chevy engine
discomark10
Well-Known Member
I was just wondering how they shrink fit liners? Is it a case of uniformly heating the block before inserting the liner then letting the block shrink back as it cools?
It seems there are a million things you can do to improve the RV8 to firstly get it back to 165 bhp then onwards to 200 bhp... Could just start with a Chevy engine
Not sure on that but I would imagine that would be the case.. cool the liners and heat the block.
Sam what pistons are in there atm?
Mine are 8's would consider a swap possibly
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
I have 9.35 pistons dude, all in tidy condition etc with matched caps
Yeah sounds ideal to me but are yours +20 thou?
not knowing enough about FI, some say you will melt if not less than 8.5 CR, others inc zen say that it's fine and/or run it 9.35 and it's better performer off boost, use less boost which means more efficiency generally
If you go to 8.13 to make power through boost them economy will be bad I assume, seeing as you're building a more inefficient engine, despite the fact the CR allows you to make more peak power that probably means most of the time it's not as good as a higher CR engine that has less peak but more linear power band and probably considerably tastier midrange
Anyway
Yeah you got a deal if I decide that's what's best but just don't know otherwise.
Yeah sounds ideal to me but are yours +20 thou?
not knowing enough about FI, some say you will melt if not less than 8.5 CR, others inc zen say that it's fine and/or run it 9.35 and it's better performer off boost, use less boost which means more efficiency generally
If you go to 8.13 to make power through boost them economy will be bad I assume, seeing as you're building a more inefficient engine, despite the fact the CR allows you to make more peak power that probably means most of the time it's not as good as a higher CR engine that has less peak but more linear power band and probably considerably tastier midrange
Anyway
Yeah you got a deal if I decide that's what's best but just don't know otherwise.
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Well yeah, expensive pistons being a way to increase post boost CR (either by static CR or more boost I guess) without melting
I need to do this on the cheap or it's pointless
Good thing about 9.35 is it's better investment if having to buy +20 pistons
Stick an NA cam and new followers in it and it's a good NA engine a couple hours later, 8.13 block is always gonna need boost
Just DO NOT know the answer
How has zen got away with 10.5 @ 10psi?! Unless very careful ignition timing and fueling and everyone doing it on carbs in the old days couldn't manage it
I need to do this on the cheap or it's pointless
Good thing about 9.35 is it's better investment if having to buy +20 pistons
Stick an NA cam and new followers in it and it's a good NA engine a couple hours later, 8.13 block is always gonna need boost
Just DO NOT know the answer
How has zen got away with 10.5 @ 10psi?! Unless very careful ignition timing and fueling and everyone doing it on carbs in the old days couldn't manage it
discomark10
Well-Known Member
Nope just standard. Forged would be a good idea as doc says all depends on what sort of power you wish to run?
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
250bhp would be a sensible target tbh, don't actually know how it would get on
It's not getting forged pistons end of
If it turns out supercharging is not particularly viable it'll just get a hot cam
I'm prepared to put a fair bit of work into the heads regards guides and springs etc so they'll suit either a hot NA or FI cam
It's not getting forged pistons end of
If it turns out supercharging is not particularly viable it'll just get a hot cam
I'm prepared to put a fair bit of work into the heads regards guides and springs etc so they'll suit either a hot NA or FI cam
I was just wondering how they shrink fit liners? Is it a case of uniformly heating the block before inserting the liner then letting the block shrink back as it cools?
It seems there are a million things you can do to improve the RV8 to firstly get it back to 165 bhp then onwards to 200 bhp... Could just start with a Chevy engine
heat block a few hundred degrees and liquid nitrogen freeze the liners.
Google explains it well. and saw a Ferrari engine being built on a show How do they do that
discomark10
Well-Known Member
Boost is always an option.. just how much.
Most stock engines wil take 5 psi without any qualms.
why super charge and not turbo? turbo's are better efficiency as it uses waste power and are easy to work with.
Most stock engines wil take 5 psi without any qualms.
why super charge and not turbo? turbo's are better efficiency as it uses waste power and are easy to work with.
