Albjames

Albjames

Member
Well the story so far The garage (Landrover specialists) have had my disco2 td5 in three times because of poor starting and random cut outs.
I said it could be the injectors this was dismissed then I checked the loom not a trace of oil so they changed the Oil filter and cleared the diagnostic this didn't show up anything interesting and said that should do it!
Nope had trouble starting it at the garage so I booked it in again (today) and said can they do a pressure check for fuel leaks and also go back to the injector seals.
So just phoned them to find out how they were getting on The reply was They have changed the pump" it's better but not fixed" they are now looking at the electrics so see what happens :-(
I asked about the injector seals and they said they were looking at that last as it was the most expensive? I thought the pump would be the expensive bit? Anyway time to phone the bank for a loan I think, Can they not just find out the problem without trial and error I feel this is going to be a rip off situation it's a shame there is only one Landrover garage in Aberdeen except the main stealer
 
yep,they seem like incompetent schmucks who will ripp you off... a pressure gauge connected instead of the fuel temp sensor in the FPR would have revealed if the pump or the injector seals are gone

as long as there are no fault codes logged in the ECU the problem is 99% fuel delivery system/pressure related and if the symptom was hard starting and cut out the injector washers/seals are the first to blame provided there is enough pressure from the pump

so IF they measured the pressure there are only 3 options:
1. there isn't enough pressure = pump is gone or doesnt get feed(which means you can't hear it)
2. there is 4 bar steady with ignition on = pump is good
3. with the gauge left there and engine off the pressure drops more than 1 bar in a few hours = worn injector seals
simple as that...for other problems usually there are fault codes stored
 
That's what I would say also
But they phoned and said it was the pump so £255 later I am going to collect it tonight :)
Not going to get my hopes up as I am convinced it's the injector seals (they said they run the diagnostics on a live running feed and no signs of any injector fault)
I will give it a couple of days then maybe relax LOL Relax with a Disco what a fool :)
 
Oh well thanks for the info again😀
Just back with the Disco from the garage started first time straight off the key
Then drove home 20 miles country/town roads parked up outside my house and had a smile on my face the car is running great
So switched engine off then just for curiosity turned the key and the feckin thing didn't start so got out the car slammed the door went inside not smiling anymore
Suppose I will be phoning in the morning FFS is there any good garages left in the world??????
 
Check oil levels and sniff dipstick, diesel in the sump can be down to dicky injector seals. Another culprit on td5s is the crank sensor and the bleed valve as already mentioned. Good luck!
 
+1 ^^^ ... also make sure the battery is in good shape and the alternator is charging well(between 14 -14.5V with engine running and loads switched on(main beam, heated seats/screens, etc)... cos if the battery goes weak it will crank but not start
 
Thanks lads
first thing i checked was the oil level and smell for diesel this was ok the battery was checked at the end of Feb again ok
also the fuel filter was changed last week as this was what the garage thought it might be also is was a cheep fix or not as it turned out they also changed the fuel conditioner(what is this?) and i noticed the fitting on the top of the fuel filter closest to the wheel at the back end of the filter cap looks new and clean so i think this has been replaced also
I keep saying to them it could be the injector washers and seals but they are hesitant to go down that route? is this a pig of a job for a "Landrover Specialist"?
 
Well today's update car will now only start after a purge so out to the garage I go
They put it back on the diagnostic only to find nothing so I persuaded them to do the washers and seals (And new injector rail) they will only charge for 1hr labour plus parts
Booked in for Friday so fingers toes and everything else crossed
 
😡that's how I feel after getting the disco back at lunch time today!
The garage changed the injector washers and seals (genuine LR) and the injector harness (again LR)
Got in fired up first kick drive to the fuel station 5 miles put in 40 quid of diesel there was just under half a tank
Got in tried to start and it turned and turned so did a purge for about 5 mins and it fired up
What the feck could be wrong with it I have changed almost everything on the FKing car
And to date it's cost me around 350 quid (to be fair to the garage they didn't charge labour on the washers and loom)
Help lads HELP
 
Update on me disco
Ran fine for two weeks but driving down hill at 70 it just lost all power as if the key had been turned
So pulled to the side of the road did a purge and it started after about three turns ?
Now seems to be running fine again (although I think it is getting starved if fuel it feels a bit sluggish)
Any suggestions ?????
 
Hi Andy no it is the one in Banchory I used to use them years ago when I had my series 2 and they were great but like everything I think the old school blokes have retired and been replaced by fitters not mechanics
And Nigel
Yes I think this also but I have had everything checked and or replaced so
I am at a loss here
 
that crank sensor thing seems that it was neglected though, and it's important...also a simple thing just to rule it out would be the inertia switch/main relay circuit, so some simple checks:

1. swap relay R9(main) with R8(heated screen) for test
2. unplug the inertia switch and bridge the pins in the plug
3. you have attached the pin disposals of the ECU red plug, expose the ECU to have access to the wires(don't unplug) insert thin sewing needles as to reach the core in the wires from pin 13(pink/black wire) and pin 36(white/blue wire) they are near each other on the right edge, concentrate to not mix them and measure on tghe needles with multimeter set on AC low range(unless you have a multimeter with such thin probes to reach the pin from behind in the plug, quite unlikely)...you must get 2 - 3 V/AC while cranking there...if you dont get that the car will not start whatsoever and you need a new crank sensor(unless it's a wiring issue then you must check continuity from sensor to ECU plug)... i saw cases of low crank signal which was not recorded by diagnostics even though it should have been
 

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