mantrid said:
Thanks for the advice mate, will do exactly this, need to drive down to the local indistral estate and find a quiet place to do it, only got a gravel driveway here and can't get the car up here. Silly question but are the CV joints only on the front, not the rear?
Click to expand...
As I said, I am not familiar with the D4 or the D3 @gstuart is though.
Generally speaking constant velocity joints are used on front-wheel drive vehiclesand nowadays on some 4x4s as they maintain the speed of both the wheel and the driveshaft even when the wheel is turned to full lock.
See:

 
mantrid said:
Thanks for the advice mate, will do exactly this, need to drive down to the local indistral estate and find a quiet place to do it, only got a gravel driveway here and can't get the car up here. Silly question but are the CV joints only on the front, not the rear?
Click to expand...

Hi

Indeed there are cv half shafts front and back on each wheel

Hope that’s helps
 
Drive forward slowly with windows open and brake....if you hear a clonk it's lower control arms.
If they have not been done in the last 20k they will need doing.

Get under the car have someone turn full lock to lock if you see the control arms moving the bushes are shot lots of "how to" on the tube to inspect said control arms
 
biketeacherdave said:
Drive forward slowly with windows open and brake....if you hear a clonk it's lower control arms.
If they have not been done in the last 20k they will need doing.

Get under the car have someone turn full lock to lock if you see the control arms moving the bushes are shot lots of "how to" on the tube to inspect said control arms
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice hero, I did hear a clunk when braking that came on at the same time as the turning clonks.

One silly question though please, front or rear?
 
FML guys, it gets worse sorry, okay, so I go out yesterday to start the car, nothing, steering column locked, turn ignition on, put foot on brake and hear a click and nothing, no attempt to start at all, no errors on code reader (LRSoft 3.0), so I figure, bad battery, bring the battery in, plug it into a charger (RING RSC612), let it charge to 100%, then test it afterwards, reads 100% still, put the battery back in the car expecting it to start and the same thing, dead.

EXCEPT... If I turn the ignition on, put my foot on the brake and repeatedly put the parking brake on/off it makes a whirring sound and a ping sound like a spring being released, but the steering column still stays locked, I managed to get the steering column to unlock once but it didn't make a difference, same problem and then it locked again.

I got a mobile mechanic (a good guy) coming on wednesday so there's that, but any suggestions would be appreciated guys.

Thanks in advance! :(
 
mantrid said:
FML guys, it gets worse sorry, okay, so I go out yesterday to start the car, nothing, steering column locked, turn ignition on, put foot on brake and hear a click and nothing, no attempt to start at all, no errors on code reader (LRSoft 3.0), so I figure, bad battery, bring the battery in, plug it into a charger (RING RSC612), let it charge to 100%, then test it afterwards, reads 100% still, put the battery back in the car expecting it to start and the same thing, dead.

EXCEPT... If I turn the ignition on, put my foot on the brake and repeatedly put the parking brake on/off it makes a whirring sound and a ping sound like a spring being released, but the steering column still stays locked, I managed to get the steering column to unlock once but it didn't make a difference, same problem and then it locked again.

I got a mobile mechanic (a good guy) coming on wednesday so there's that, but any suggestions would be appreciated guys.

Thanks in advance! :(
Click to expand...

@Stanleysteamer, @gstuart - any ideas boys?
 
mantrid said:
@Stanleysteamer, @gstuart - any ideas boys?
Click to expand...

Hi

Few questions if I may plse ,

Out of curiosity have u got an electric steering column pls

Does it make any difference if u try another key

Have u tried putting a jump lead from the earth battery post to a good engine place, can find a decent earth using a multimeter

As you’ve mentioned about the battery being 100% using a multimeter what are the readings plse

Am suprised there are no fault codes though, assume the carpets are dry and have u lifted the front passenger side by the internal door sill plse , to ensure it’s not wet in the sill area as there are large wiring looms that sit underneath plastic covers , if u carefully lift them and using a torch should be able to see if there’s any water there

Hope that gives u a starting point
 
Just thought of something else

U should feel a click on the gear lever as u put ur foot on and off the brake pedal , , maybe the gear lever interlock got wet from underneath ??

Hope this may also help in a small way and plse let us know how u get on
 
Last edited:
gstuart said:
Hi

Few questions if I may plse ,

Out of curiosity have u got an electric steering column pls

Does it make any difference if u try another key

Have u tried putting a jump lead from the earth battery post to a good engine place, can find a decent earth using a multimeter

As you’ve mentioned about the battery being 100% using a multimeter what are the readings plse

Am suprised there are no fault codes though, assume the carpets are dry and have u lifted the front passenger side by the internal door sill plse , to ensure it’s not wet in the sill area as there are large wiring looms that sit underneath plastic covers , if u carefully lift them and using a torch should be able to see if there’s any water there

Hope that gives u a starting point
Click to expand...

Hi mate, will put a multimeter on it tomorrow, need to look into how to use a mm to do that, got on tho, this is the reading off the ring charger I have.
 

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gstuart said:
Hi

Few questions if I may plse ,

Out of curiosity have u got an electric steering column pls

Does it make any difference if u try another key

Have u tried putting a jump lead from the earth battery post to a good engine place, can find a decent earth using a multimeter

As you’ve mentioned about the battery being 100% using a multimeter what are the readings plse

Am suprised there are no fault codes though, assume the carpets are dry and have u lifted the front passenger side by the internal door sill plse , to ensure it’s not wet in the sill area as there are large wiring looms that sit underneath plastic covers , if u carefully lift them and using a torch should be able to see if there’s any water there

Hope that gives u a starting point
Click to expand...
I tried both keys, not sure if I have an electric steering column I have a physical lever underneath the steering column to adjust height?
 
mantrid said:
EXCEPT... If I turn the ignition on, put my foot on the brake and repeatedly put the parking brake on/off it makes a whirring sound and a ping sound like a spring
Click to expand...
Sounds like electric handbrake is fubar, full strip down and reset needed
 
alright boys, I think we got it diagnosed, the mobile mechanic that came round was pretty great, really seemed to know his stuff, he first diagnosed that the starter motor was gone, a 14 year old denso, replaced with a denso starter and that fixed that, guy took the old starter out after thumping it with a hammer while trying to crank it and used jumper leads to verify it was dead, neck stuck out but no spin at all. once replaced car started first time, as the starter motor was out, I took the opportunity to order the secondary turbo drain modification as the car always kicked out smoke on cold starts, had that fitted, unfortunately it was a britpart kit pipe so it didn't fit right, the chap trimmed off a little of the pipe before the gasket/seal and managed to get it in place, apparently its not quite flush but the pipe and gasket are in place, been told to keep an eye out for leaks and report back, if it's a problem will order the land rover pipe and have it done again.

as for the clunking problem, it's apparently a prop-shaft issue toward the rear, was told the part wasn't too expensive (less than the starter which was £185) but the labour would be more expensive than the part, he's going to quote it tomorrow once he's looked into the part.

total cost to replace the starter, install the secondary turbo drain mod was about £450, not sure if that's good, but happy it at least starts now, will update as things progress.

thanks, @Stanleysteamer, @gstuart; and to everyone that's helped so far, hope this helps explain the current situation and all the best!
 
As it's only on full lock, could it be contaminated power steering oil? Or a defective pressure relief valve in the PS system? Maybe the wheels touching the chassis/body on full lock?

Just realised there were more posts on page 2 when I typed this. something to bear in mind thoug.
 
roythebus said:
As it's only on full lock, could it be contaminated power steering oil? Or a defective pressure relief valve in the PS system? Maybe the wheels touching the chassis/body on full lock?

Just realised there were more posts on page 2 when I typed this. something to bear in mind thoug.
Click to expand...
mantrid said:
when I was reversing out and turning to the left/right I heard a horrible cluncking or sputtering sound which is worse the slower you drive, only happens when you turn and it gets worse the more you turn the wheel toward full lock,
Click to expand...
.... and this is exactly why I suggested it might be CV joints.
If it really is something to do with a prop-shaft I don't see why turning and towards full lock should make a difference.
So I am waiting to see if either the symptoms weren't really linked to turning and full lock, or the prop shaft actually isn't the problem.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
.... and this is exactly why I suggested it might be CV joints.
If it really is something to do with a prop-shaft I don't see why turning and towards full lock should make a difference.
So I am waiting to see if either the symptoms weren't really linked to turning and full lock, or the prop shaft actually isn't the problem.
Click to expand...

I get you Stanley, thanks, what I'll do is put your point to the mechanic and see what he says, I do agree, you would expect the noise to be happening going over bumps, going straight etc, not worse as you get to full lock as you say.

Will update once I hear from him.

Thanks mate.
 
One thing though @Stanleysteamer, might be a silly question, but there is a big knuckle at the back of the rear prop shaft, that moves in 4 directions IIRC, could that answer why the clunks only happen on turning, if that part is locking up?
 
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