sierrafery said:

that crank sensor thing seems that it was neglected though, and it's important...also a simple thing just to rule it out would be the inertia switch/main relay circuit, so some simple checks:

1. swap relay R9(main) with R8(heated screen) for test
2. unplug the inertia switch and bridge the pins in the plug
3. you have attached the pin disposals of the ECU red plug, expose the ECU to have access to the wires(don't unplug) insert thin sewing needles as to reach the core in the wires from pin 13(pink/black wire) and pin 36(white/blue wire) they are near each other on the right edge, concentrate to not mix them and measure on tghe needles with multimeter set on AC low range(unless you have a multimeter with such thin probes to reach the pin from behind in the plug, quite unlikely)...you must get 2 - 3 V/AC while cranking there...if you dont get that the car will not start whatsoever and you need a new crank sensor(unless it's a wiring issue then you must check continuity from sensor to ECU plug)... i saw cases of low crank signal which was not recorded by diagnostics even though it should have been

Click to expand...

Hi. I hope you don't mind me going into this old thread to ask a question. Starting had been getting erratic but now the stater spins but the glow plug light doesn't come on and it doesn't start. On the rare occasion itthe glow plug light comes on it does start. The only message from the diagnostic unit is a code telling me no motor speed input - broken wire or short circuit. I have treated it to a new battery and a engine coolant temperature sensor. The latter only because a red light was coming on by the temperature gauge.

I tried the test above to see what AC current there was at the pins while spinning the starter but it didn't show any.
This morning I have removed the starter and disconnected the crank sensor plug. I found another plug in the garage that connected to this. Checking the connections with a meter the connection to the blue white pin is good but nothing at the pink black pin.

Do you think I should try and cancel the online order for a crank position sensor and order one of the wiring repair kits that are availble on ebay?

£22 seems a lot for a replacement plug and a couple of crimp connectors but if it fixes the problem I will be ecstatic. It won't be easy trying to crimp from underneath though.

brianconwy said:

The only message from the diagnostic unit is a code telling me no motor speed input - broken wire or short circuit.

Click to expand...

That clearely shows a problem with the crank sensor signal... if you found no continuity in the wiring that's the issue, contact this guy enquiries@landrover-connectors.co.uk he'll make you a complete shielded wire with plug and pins as to replace it untill the ECU for a good price, that so called £22 repair kit is too expensive for what it is and might not even cure the problem

btw did you rule out the other things form what i said about R9 for example cos the glow plug thing points to that

brianconwy said:

Do you think I should try and cancel the online order for a crank position sensor and order one of the wiring repair kits that are availble on ebay?

Click to expand...

sierrafery said:

if you found no continuity in the wiring that's the issue, contact this guy

Click to expand...

Brian, is yours an Auto?
SF, Do these cables work on autos? there was a supplier that did not know and was supplying non functioning replacement cables to auto drivers even though they worked in Manuals.

Cheers

neilly said:

SF, Do these cables work on autos? there was a supplier that did not know and was supplying non functioning replacement cables to auto drivers even though they worked in Manuals.

Click to expand...

IMO those cables you think were ECU relocation cabes which were missing the CAN wiring IIRC... in this case it's about a simple shielded wire with plug only for the crank sensor which can be pinned intto the ECU plug and replaces the whole crank sensor wiring

sierrafery said:

IMO those cables you think were ECU relocation cabes which were missing the CAN wiring IIRC... in this case it's about a simple shielded wire with plug only for the crank sensor which can be pinned intto the ECU plug and replaces the whole crank sensor wiring

Click to expand...

Yep ,that will be the one.

Cheers

sierrafery said:

That clearely shows a problem with the crank sensor signal... if you found no continuity in the wiring that's the issue, contact this guy enquiries@landrover-connectors.co.uk he'll make you a complete shielded wire with plug and pins as to replace it untill the ECU for a good price, that so called £22 repair kit is too expensive for what it is and might not even cure the problem

btw did you rule out the other things form what i said about R9 for example cos the glow plug thing points to that

Click to expand...

Thanks for that.
I was going to swap relays but I don't have the spare one. I would like to order a couple. Where is the best place to get them? I will try and find the correct part number.
I will contact that supplier and get the complete crank sensor lead. It is a manual. I did replace the injector harness not long ago but there is no new oil appeared in the connector. I need to replace the injector seals as the sump level is rising. I have those ready.

I am also working on my daughters little Daewoo Matiz. That is built 2003 as well but seems in better condition. She needs hers first for college.
Thanks again.

That's what i was speaking about(i bought one myself not long ago to have it within reach but didnt fit it yet), it has the perfect lenght to replace the section from the crank sensor up to the ECU and has the sealed pins which are going into the ECU red plug... it's a bit cheaper than that ebay kit which is a joke and it's made as to not be subject of any electromagnetic ''noise'' being shielded all the way and well protected against physical wear

sierrafery said:

That's what i was speaking about(i bought one myself not long ago to have it within reach but didnt fit it yet), it has the perfect lenght to replace the section from the crank sensor up to the ECU and has the sealed pins which are going into the black plug... it's a bit cheaper than that ebay kit which is a joke and it's made as to not be subject of any electromagnetic ''noise'' being shielded all the way and well protected against physical wear
View attachment 167830

Click to expand...

Is that the plug that fits into the sensor? Why are there three leads? Is one for the shielding?

brianconwy said:

Is that the plug that fits into the sensor? Why are there three leads? Is one for the shielding?

Click to expand...

yes the small black plug connects to the sensor(C168) and the others instead of the existing crank sensor wiring in the ECU red plug which has one for the shielding, pin 16, you have to unpin the old ones and insert the new, it's easy and that cable is definitely an upgrade for the crank signal's accuracy

sierrafery said:

yes the small black plug connects to the sensor(C168) and the others instead of the existing crank sensor wiring in the ECU red plug which has one for the shielding, pin 16, you have to unpin the old ones and insert the new, it's easy and that cable is definitely an upgrade for the crank signal's accuracy

View attachment 167834

Click to expand...

Thanks. I will email him. I didn't fancy trying to crimp underneath the car.