I'll check them all tomorrow, take wheel off, put car in neutral, chock wheels and then check all arms with pry bar and look for stuff not recentering on the bushes or adverse play in shafts and/or split boots?
That make sense?
Thanks Freddie.
U/Js are very similar to CV joints, they perform more or less the same function in that they transmit power to another part of a transmission but allow for the flexibility that occurs between the fixed part and the moving part. U'js work between gearboxe,s or in the case of 4x4s between transfer boxes, and axles. CV joints do their work between gearboxes or differentials and wheel hubs, and in the case of the front of the vehicle they have to be able to cope with the fact that the hubs they are supplying power to not only move up and down but they turn from side to side.
This excellent article explains the difference.
You'd be better off jacking up the side near a front wheel so that you can turn the front wheel and locking the gears up so the wheel will not turn the transmission so you can feel and listen for any play when you turn the wheel.
Okay, thanks Stanley & also for the link you posted, got axle stands coming today from halfords as I only previously had 2 bottle jacks on gravel/mud which made me too nervous to get under the car, had to go to the industrial estate locally after hours to get under the car, also got some boat grease coming so will grease up the u-joint on the prop shaft once I've finished checking the cv joints on the wheels, not sure if that will help was just going to try it.
It ought not to be hard to remove the U/J with its flange from the diff flange so you can REALLY test it for play in all directions. You often cannot feel it properly when it is on the car and connected.
You are totally right to only go under a properly supported vehicle, too many people have been maimed or killed by jacks moving or seals in hydraulic jacks failing.
