The Ferkin BoB
Banned
it will drill out if it dont ease out,
if you drill ...drill it to 0.25mm of hole diameter then re-tap...
if you drill ...drill it to 0.25mm of hole diameter then re-tap...
easye1
Banned
+1
agree wiv him..
as wiv all metal machining,
drilling causes friction = heat!
dont use lots of speed even wiv decent drill bits, but do use lots of lubricant.
an oilcan wiv old injin oil does the job, as will WD40 stuff but smelly old oil is cheeeper, plus tries to keep the cutting edge cooler = keeping the edge cutting longer.
I keep telling my son when he`s drilling,
If you can hear it squeaking, its too fast & too hot & yer fcuking the drill bit,
SLOW down & lubricate...
(oohhh sounds a bit sensual thet)
I even made a speed controller once out ov a dimmer light switch in the lead from plug socket to drill plug!!!
I`ve got a box of eziouts, plus various other stuff from workdays,
but you have to "look" at the problem each as a 1 off to see whats best.
at worst, can you not have a bolt going thro` wiv a nut on the back?/
sorry its thats a no no, I never done a complete hub change
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Oldseadog
Well-Known Member
If you haven't already got some, invest in a set of either Dormer or Starrett HSS drills ... And then learn how to sharpen them properly!
As with everything, you gets what you pays for!!
Many of mine have lasted over 40 years, although they are now a bit shorter than they were originally!
As with everything, you gets what you pays for!!
Many of mine have lasted over 40 years, although they are now a bit shorter than they were originally!
Wise advice chaps. I remember learning to sharpen drills years ago. Sure was a precise art.
Rustystuff
Active Member
The set I have are Dormer. Very good, will drill your bolt.. no problem.
Sharpening drills is indeed an art, but one worth mastering.... even the best drills will need sharpening eventually.
Hope all goes well
easye1
Banned
nice vid about commercial drill sharpeners.
nice drill bits too if you look.
4mm cobolt drill bit test..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wC65HqYcPTw
How to Sharpen Drill Bits for Structural Steel - Ocean Rejuventor Ocean Penetrator - YouTube
nice drill bits too if you look.
4mm cobolt drill bit test..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wC65HqYcPTw
How to Sharpen Drill Bits for Structural Steel - Ocean Rejuventor Ocean Penetrator - YouTube
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Oldseadog
Well-Known Member
Similar cutting speeds can be achieved using HSS by flattening the cutting and relief angles slightly, and reducing the size of the chisel edge and then backing the lands off by about 50%.
Thus, on a 10mm drill, your chisel edge is reduced to approx 1.5mm, and the cutting edge should then be about 2mm x 4.75mm, and the lands are increased to around 8mm.
This is perfect for both mild and stainless, as it doesn't allow much heat to build up and burn out the bit.
However, the optimum angles are totally different for cast iron and different again for aluminium.
A word of warning is that it takes years of experience to get the angles right by hand, so if you've never done it ... don't try it!
I did take some pics, but they don't show enough detail.
Thus, on a 10mm drill, your chisel edge is reduced to approx 1.5mm, and the cutting edge should then be about 2mm x 4.75mm, and the lands are increased to around 8mm.
This is perfect for both mild and stainless, as it doesn't allow much heat to build up and burn out the bit.
However, the optimum angles are totally different for cast iron and different again for aluminium.
A word of warning is that it takes years of experience to get the angles right by hand, so if you've never done it ... don't try it!
I did take some pics, but they don't show enough detail.
Well, you've got to start somewhere. Try an old blunt one, because you're not going to make it worse and experiment to see what kinds of angles suit your workpiece best. When I was a child I only had old drills that other people had thrown away and I didn't realise it was supposed to be difficult to sharpen them so away I went. If they've been overheated, as most old ones have at some point, you might want to harden and temper them - red hot and quench, then heated to "light straw" (iirc) and quench. Sometimes I found really good drills which took a really good edge and stayed sharp for ages, whereas the ones from Woolworths were usually rubbish no matter what you did with them. I bet Johnny Curt sharpens his own drills. And I expect he has an antique belt-driven grindstone to do it on.
easye1
Banned
LOL....
fer some, only too true.
but lets be fair here, if yous never been trained in injineering,
then yous do as good as yer can, wiv the bits yer got
(or can beg/steal/borrow)
funny thing tho` in hand sharpening drill bits.
all the old boys all tell ya, its the little twist of the wrist on each side that does it
Oldseadog
Well-Known Member
Yup!!... funny thing tho` in hand sharpening drill bits.
all the old boys all tell ya, its the little twist of the wrist on each side that does it
easye1
Banned
Jongould
New Member
LOL....
fer some, only too true.
but lets be fair here, if yous never been trained in injineering,
then yous do as good as yer can, wiv the bits yer got
(or can beg/steal/borrow)
funny thing tho` in hand sharpening drill bits.
all the old boys all tell ya, its the little twist of the wrist on each side that does it
We had floating around a little jig for sharpening drill bits, tried it but preffered to do it by hand on a wheel, have messed plenty up in the past but like you say you cant blunten a blunt drill so its worth the practice. to be honest now days I just buy more as I get half decent cobalts for very cheap and we usually end up snapping them before they go blunt!
LOL....
fer some, only too true.
but lets be fair here, if yous never been trained in injineering,
then yous do as good as yer can, wiv the bits yer got
(or can beg/steal/borrow)
funny thing tho` in hand sharpening drill bits.
all the old boys all tell ya, its the little twist of the wrist on each side that does it
Somebody gave me a jig once, but I can't even remember where it is now. I prefer to work freehand, because they work best if you can curve the bottom surface away from the cutting edge. It's rotating them slightly as you offer them up to the grindstone.
I used to love sharpening things when I was a kid. I sharpened all the knives in our house once and didn't tell anybody, and everybody cut themselves - parents, brother, visiting grandparents - except me. You've never seen so much blood on a bank holiday.
Just an update:
No success in removing the snapped bolts so where the bolts snapped I've welded a joint between the axle casing and the stub axle.
Four bolts and two good welds will do for now.
Never experienced such a pain in the backside.
No success in removing the snapped bolts so where the bolts snapped I've welded a joint between the axle casing and the stub axle.
Four bolts and two good welds will do for now.
Never experienced such a pain in the backside.
That's what I thought too. Wasted too much time on the job with two weeks and a mountain of jobs to do, including replacing the inner wings and battery tray. :jaw:
