Didnt check this for a while and it's became a chemistry thread. :D:D All interesting stuff.

Can you not send the stud back in with what you have protruding and take it out the other side?

Well the problem is whilst the threaded hole goes through, the bolt only goes in 3/4 of the way, leaving the rest of the 1/4 to collect all sort of stuff and rust out. It would have been better if longer bolts were used tht went through all the way. No idea if this was just bad design or what. So wouldn't work going the other way as there is even more crap tht way.

Hopefully getting it sorted tomorrow with my new welder friend.

Definitely getting myself a welder for Christmas...
 
Presumably these are the back axle to stub bolts? Pretty sure they should go all the way through, I'll have a look at mine tomorrow.
 
Didnt check this for a while and it's became a chemistry thread. :D:D All interesting stuff.



Well the problem is whilst the threaded hole goes through, the bolt only goes in 3/4 of the way, leaving the rest of the 1/4 to collect all sort of stuff and rust out. It would have been better if longer bolts were used tht went through all the way. No idea if this was just bad design or what. So wouldn't work going the other way as there is even more crap tht way.

Hopefully getting it sorted tomorrow with my new welder friend.

Definitely getting myself a welder for Christmas...

How much broken bolt is left sticking out if you can get a stilson wrench on it that will get the basterd out as it bites in as it tightens...
 
Presumably these are the back axle to stub bolts? Pretty sure they should go all the way through, I'll have a look at mine tomorrow.
Yes, those are the ones but I think there are a number of different configurations even on just the non Salisbury axle version. The bolts on mine at 25mm long.
 
How much broken bolt is left sticking out if you can get a stilson wrench on it that will get the basterd out as it bites in as it tightens...
There's still a good 7-10mm sticking out now tht I have removed the stub axle, so that could potentially work but I will probably try the nut welding tomorrow first.
 
Yes, those are the ones but I think there are a number of different configurations even on just the non Salisbury axle version. The bolts on mine at 25mm long.
The only reason I can think of for the designer making the axle flange that thick was to get the needed thread length. 5mm ought to go right through though (from memory it's about 12 for the flange and 8 for the stub)?
 
There's still a good 7-10mm sticking out now tht I have removed the stub axle, so that could potentially work but I will probably try the nut welding tomorrow first.

Ok but weld a large washer to the stub first then a large nut to washer and then fill the nut centre with weld and dont forget to clean broken stub to shiney clean the more weld you build up the stronger and gives more heat which helps to break the joint and tighten first then undo then tighten again...
 
The only reason I can think of for the designer making the axle flange that thick was to get the needed thread length. 5mm ought to go right through though (from memory it's about 12 for the flange and 8 for the stub)?

Interesting, i' just put the stub axle back on the other side, will have a measure around, the bolts definitely doesn't poke through on mine. Does yours have a detachable bracket for the brake calipers? Mine is just an integral piece.

Anyway, I am also please to report that all three studs were removed now after welding nuts on them, the heat definitely helped. Can believe how easy they were to undo after the welding.

Thanks everyone for the advices and comments by the way.
 
<snip>
Anyway, I am also please to report that all three studs were removed now after welding nuts on them, the heat definitely helped. Can believe how easy they were to undo after the welding.

Heat is often the answer, get yourself a fine nozzel plumbers blowtorch and some MAP gas.
 

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