Didnt check this for a while and it's became a chemistry thread. :D:D All interesting stuff.

craigoodwood said:
Can you not send the stud back in with what you have protruding and take it out the other side?
Click to expand...

Well the problem is whilst the threaded hole goes through, the bolt only goes in 3/4 of the way, leaving the rest of the 1/4 to collect all sort of stuff and rust out. It would have been better if longer bolts were used tht went through all the way. No idea if this was just bad design or what. So wouldn't work going the other way as there is even more crap tht way.

Hopefully getting it sorted tomorrow with my new welder friend.

Definitely getting myself a welder for Christmas...
 
Presumably these are the back axle to stub bolts? Pretty sure they should go all the way through, I'll have a look at mine tomorrow.
 
fumiyasu said:
Didnt check this for a while and it's became a chemistry thread. :D:D All interesting stuff.



Well the problem is whilst the threaded hole goes through, the bolt only goes in 3/4 of the way, leaving the rest of the 1/4 to collect all sort of stuff and rust out. It would have been better if longer bolts were used tht went through all the way. No idea if this was just bad design or what. So wouldn't work going the other way as there is even more crap tht way.

Hopefully getting it sorted tomorrow with my new welder friend.

Definitely getting myself a welder for Christmas...
Click to expand...

How much broken bolt is left sticking out if you can get a stilson wrench on it that will get the basterd out as it bites in as it tightens...
 
boguing said:
Presumably these are the back axle to stub bolts? Pretty sure they should go all the way through, I'll have a look at mine tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Yes, those are the ones but I think there are a number of different configurations even on just the non Salisbury axle version. The bolts on mine at 25mm long.
 
Shippers said:
How much broken bolt is left sticking out if you can get a stilson wrench on it that will get the basterd out as it bites in as it tightens...
Click to expand...
There's still a good 7-10mm sticking out now tht I have removed the stub axle, so that could potentially work but I will probably try the nut welding tomorrow first.
 
fumiyasu said:
Yes, those are the ones but I think there are a number of different configurations even on just the non Salisbury axle version. The bolts on mine at 25mm long.
Click to expand...
The only reason I can think of for the designer making the axle flange that thick was to get the needed thread length. 5mm ought to go right through though (from memory it's about 12 for the flange and 8 for the stub)?
 
fumiyasu said:
There's still a good 7-10mm sticking out now tht I have removed the stub axle, so that could potentially work but I will probably try the nut welding tomorrow first.
Click to expand...

Ok but weld a large washer to the stub first then a large nut to washer and then fill the nut centre with weld and dont forget to clean broken stub to shiney clean the more weld you build up the stronger and gives more heat which helps to break the joint and tighten first then undo then tighten again...
 
boguing said:
The only reason I can think of for the designer making the axle flange that thick was to get the needed thread length. 5mm ought to go right through though (from memory it's about 12 for the flange and 8 for the stub)?
Click to expand...

Interesting, i' just put the stub axle back on the other side, will have a measure around, the bolts definitely doesn't poke through on mine. Does yours have a detachable bracket for the brake calipers? Mine is just an integral piece.

Anyway, I am also please to report that all three studs were removed now after welding nuts on them, the heat definitely helped. Can believe how easy they were to undo after the welding.

Thanks everyone for the advices and comments by the way.
 
fumiyasu said:
<snip>
Anyway, I am also please to report that all three studs were removed now after welding nuts on them, the heat definitely helped. Can believe how easy they were to undo after the welding.
Click to expand...

Heat is often the answer, get yourself a fine nozzel plumbers blowtorch and some MAP gas.
 
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