I might have a strange ideea but it's quite easy so try that maybe we'll be amazed, undo the solderings at the LH side sensor wiring and swap the wires between pins 4 - 5 and see the readings then on that side
 
sierrafery said:
I might have a strange ideea but it's quite easy so try that maybe we'll be amazed, undo the solderings at the LH side sensor wiring and swap the wires between pins 4 - 5 and see the readings then on that side
Click to expand...
Aw no not my soldering and perfect heatshrink haha, I'll give it a go in a sec, just going to check cont up to the ECU
 
Can't you unpin the plug and swap the pins maybe?, i didnt have chance to do that myself as it's first time it happens but based on how that sensor is built the reading should go the other way around then :confused:
 
Can I do it on the right side instead as I've already cut part of the heat shrink and theres more wire to play with, what wires would I swap over there?
Cheers
 
I swapped the wires from PIN 4 and PIN 5 on the right side, and now it just gives a constant reading of 139 and wont go up and down at all :(
 
then i have no more ideea, try with some cheap sensor from the scrapyard .... youn are certain that you identified the pins well arent you?
 
Jamiegreen said:
Oops hang on the car battery died, that probably isn't helping
Click to expand...
That certainly doesnt help :cool: ... other thing at least to see it's working you can try to activate the SLS and ORM warnings in the circuit teste menu... and check again for fault codes maybe something was logged while youn did all these tests

as long as the back doesnt move the reading is normal to be steady... and the compressor kills the battery in no time without engine running
 
sierrafery said:
That certainly doesnt help :cool: ... other thing at least to see it's working you can try to activate the SLS and ORM warnings in the circuit teste menu... and check again for fault codes maybe something was logged while youn did all these tests

as long as the back doesnt move the reading is normal to be steady... and the compressor kills the battery in no time without engine running
Click to expand...
Got it charged up again, but nope, sensor reading just stays the same with the wires swapped and wont go up/down.
I can't force the warning lights lights on with hawkeye, infact if I recall, forcing them showed them as FORCED OFF. I assume hawkeye warning light forcing doesn't override disabling them from nanocom etc.
new sensor next I guess...
 
Strange cos the up-down function should work even with sensor unplugged, does the other side work with untouched sensor wiring? ..... it's hard for me cos i dont really understand what's going on there, are you sure you identified the pins well? ..what about fault codes?

the doors are all closed?
 
sierrafery said:
Strange cos the up-down function should work even with sensor unplugged, does the other side work with untouched sensor wiring? ..... it's hard for me cos i dont really understand what's going on there, are you sure you identified the pins well? ..what about fault codes?

the doors are all closed?
Click to expand...
Sorry I mean the reading of the sensor won't go up down, not the airbags, they always work.
 
a-ha... then my ideea was not good it seems :(... or those sensors are mixed up from factory... i'm stumped but i can't accept that it will not work at the end one way or another
 
let's see what happens with a known good sensor and i'll keep thinking about this oddity maybe i'll have some good ideea too :) ... i know exactly how this system should work and i can't understand what's going on

what if you turn the sensor's arm down 180* as the angle to point toward the rear of the vehicle? .... is that phisically possible?
 
sierrafery said:
let's see what happens with a known good sensor and i'll keep thinking about this oddity maybe i'll have some good ideea too :) ... i know exactly how this system should work and i can't understand what's going on

what if you turn the sensor's arm down 180* as the angle to point toward the rear of the vehicle? .... is that phisically possible?
Click to expand...
If I recall it hits something, and im also sure it goes out of the sensors range. Will keep you updated.. unfortunately for you :p
 
To be driveable untill it will be fixed inflate the bags to good height and set it to coils, as long as no leak is present it will stay on that level for weeks.... don't you have somebody close with a SLS'd D2 to see how the readings are working on that to rule out a software glitch of Hawkeye cos now even that is suspect
 
sierrafery said:
To be driveable untill it will be fixed inflate the bags to good height and set it to coils, as long as no leak is present it will stay on that level for weeks.... don't you have somebody close with a SLS'd D2 to see how the readings are working on that to rule out a software glitch of Hawkeye cos now even that is suspect
Click to expand...
Yeah if I can try it on my mates d2 with air, but I doubt its the hawkeye cause of the way the vehicle is doing the opposite to get to the desired height, eg, going down when it actually needs to go up.. because it thinks its too high rather than too low.
Not worried about it being drivable, giving it has no brake calipers on it right now, and 1 brake pipe needs flaring and I don't have the tool.
Popping to the scrappy tomorrow to pick up a spare sensor
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Disco TD5 - SLS and Offroad lights on - No Fault
Replies
9
Views
1K
AMDS42
A
R
SLS Warning lights after sensor change
Replies
2
Views
575
sierrafery
sierrafery
MAF Diver
Disco 2 Does your Discovery 2 also lower at traffic lights?
Replies
12
Views
1K
sierrafery
sierrafery
K
Disco 4 (LR4) xenon lights
Replies
0
Views
456
kiven
K
02Disco2
Disco 2 Abs & TC lights but no fault codes
Replies
1
Views
240
sierrafery
sierrafery