Hmm just a thought, did you make anything of the fact when I press force SLS warning and off road light with hawkeye nothing shows up, and hawkeye says "FORCED OFF"? Or is this just what it would do if it were disabled with a nanocom/testbook?

Only nanocom can disable/enable the warning, testbook can't, actually hawkeye has the same software as the T4, i can only guess that you are right and if the warnings are disabled with nanocom they wil not work on circuit test with hawkeye, i've never tried that.... i'll check tomorrow on mine as i have both nanocom and hawkeye so i'll disable it with nanocom and try the test with hawkeye.... i'll let you know tomorrow some time ... though this is the simple part of this issue, that sensor reading thing is eating my mind

sierrafery said:

Only nanocom can disable/enable the warning, testbook can't, actually hawkeye has the same software as the T4, i can only guess that you are right and if the warnings are disabled with nanocom they wil not work on circuit test with hawkeye, i've never tried that.... i'll check tomorrow on mine as i have both nanocom and hawkeye so i'll disable it with nanocom and try the test with hawkeye.... i'll let you know tomorrow some time ... though this is the simple part of this issue, that sensor reading thing is eating my mind

Click to expand...

Nice one, and all will be revealed in the morning

OK, the warning lamp check secret was revealed: that 'FORCE OFF'' thing with Hawkeye is actually the only option for warning lamps circuit test cos that's how you can see if the warning lamp was trigerred by the ECU as a result of a system fault or the lamp is on due to a wiring/circuit issue. The gist is that when the tester is connected to the SLABS ECU all the warning lamps are on by default and the test is to force it off so if the circuit between the SLABS and instrument pack is good the lamp will go out. In your case this is irrelevant cos the lamp is not on being disabled(or blanked somehow).

Another thing, if the readings will be the same with other sensor too then swap wires to pins 1 - 5 and see then and if still no joy 1 - 4 and report the results

Off topic as information for others who are watching but do not reply to that here to mix up this thread: i've got another prove today that nanocom is not reliable with SLABS fault codes cos i checked just for curiosity first time when i plugged nanocom in and reported "no faults" but doublechecked with Hawkeye and there were 5 hystorical codes stored 3 for ABS and 2 for SLS, non of them current.

@sierrafery @sierrafery @sierrafery @sierrafery @sierrafery
Guess what?
It was the sensors.

Well here goes. I went to scrappy yard this morning, picked up a sensor from a d2 that had been there for 3 years, it was also on springs so god knows how old the sensors were, they charged me £24 even though they snapped open the rubber end to get the bolt out, and pulled one of the metal threads out of it. There was also a good clunk when I broke the stiffness of it from sitting from so long. Needless to say it didn't work. Then the tw*ts would only refund me £18, didn't want to refund VAT or the "removal from vehicle" cost.

Anyway.. anyway, bit the bullet and went to bearmach, paid about £85 for 2 new sensors, and my god they actually work.. the right way round.

I gotta say though, you've been a life saver with helping me. And yet the issue was so simple. I guess the moral of the story is, don't buy "ALLMAKERS" brand height sensors.

Will update a bit more when I get it together and calibrated again.

I've followed this with interest. It looks as though it would be wise to check new sensors with a multimeter to see what resistance values they show across the full range of movement. Do we have a standard for this? Fery?

Im going to guess the rest of the companies (BRITCAR) batch of ALLMAKERS sensors are doing just the same thing. So giving the company I bought them from a good telling, and then hopefully getting a refund without returning them, just with some proof.

OMG ... all this hassle caused by some SH*T chinese crap( cos that's what allamkes sells) ... your bad luck was that you was the ''pioneer'' of this cos it's first time i see this hence :

sierrafery said:

...would be very strange that both sensors to be bad by new but as long as the circuit from them to the ECU is OK and the ECU was ruled out they remain the only suspects.

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i accepted this as a possibility but was hard to believe it can happen and i was hoping really hard to be that cos otherwise we could have considered it from the twilight zone.

Anyway i'm glad it's sorted so now all you have to do is to calibrate it and hope that the warnings were disabled with nanocom and not ''cleared' with some invasive method"... which can be fixed no worries but involves some struggle again

iansoady said:

I've followed this with interest. It looks as though it would be wise to check new sensors with a multimeter to see what resistance values they show across the full range of movement. Do we have a standard for this? Fery?

Click to expand...

Hi Ian, unfortunately there is no official data about the sensor's resistances ... at least we found out what can happen so my advice for everybody is to buy WABCO which are certainly OK

Little update, before I start putting brakes back on. All now fully calibrated, 2" lift button working perfect up and down. maintains proper height and adjusts accordingly. All I need to do now is find someone with Nanocom to turn my dash lights back on, unless they have been disabled in some other dodgy way