BTW, be aware that there are cases when the diagram is not 100% accurate like in this case too as for example C0391 and 0392 are shown as female in the diagram but they appear as male in the connector view, that's why i specified "female side" but the pin disposals are the same and the wire colours as well so work with that
 
Jamiegreen said:
Alrighty, I understand checking continuity from the sensor plugs to the SLABS ECU behind the glovebox, but lost me a little as to what to test in the engine bay?
Sorry if im sounding stoopid
Click to expand...
Read again post 10 and check the connector views in RAVE...you dont need to go untill the ECU cos you worked between C0391 - C0392 and sensors
 
I'll simplify it even more for you, check at the solderings you did to the new plug's wirings and make sure that the colours of wires you see there coming from the harness are going into the proper pins of the sensor plugs e.g on LH side the SY wire to pin 5 , SU to pin 1 and SR to pin 4 and so on for RH, got it now ? ... the wire colour codes are also in the Electrical library - Introduction
 
sierrafery said:
I'll simplify it even more for you, check at the solderings you did to the new plug's wirings and make sure that the colours of wires you see there coming from the harness are going into the proper pins of the sensor plugs e.g on LH side the SY wire to pin 5 , SU to pin 1 and SR to pin 4 and so on for RH, got it now ? ... the wire colour codes are also in the Electrical library - Introduction
Click to expand...
Yes I did check that earlier, I matched it up to the old broken plugs to make sure I soldered the correct colours and they were going into the correct pin holes on the new plugs so I can rule that out.
 
Just realised that the sensor's plug pinout is not shown in RAVE so here it is from face(pin side) view:

SLS sensors plug.jpg
 
Alright, just doing the tests now.. just need to find something small enough to fit in the sensor plug pins..
 
@sierrafery ALL continuety tests between the sensor plugs and plugs in the engine bay were fine... tried swapping SLABS ECU... still the same o_O

and ignore if you saw first message, just me being stupid.
 
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Full continuity between:

C0391 - PASSENGER SIDE OF VEHICLE

pin 4 sensor = pin 3 engine bay
pin 5 sensor = pin 9 engine bay
pin 1 sensor = pin 6 engine bay


C0392 - DRIVER SIDE OF VEHICLE

pin 4 sensor = pin 10 engine bay
pin 5 sensor = pin 8 engine bay
pin 1 sensor - pin 9 engine bay
 
Then check between each pin in engine bay and all the 3 pins at the sensor to rule out a short in the harness....

what's not working OK? describe again the symptom of SLS behaviour with all the things which are not like they should be and don't be cryptic, every little detail can be relevant in this odd case ...it dives and doesnt keep even level while driving or over night?... the compressor i not kicking in when it should? the ORM is not working ... or what?

make a video about that reversed sensor input reading on hawkeye cos i must see that with my own eyes, maybe it's operator error or something cos at this pont almost everything is ruled out
 
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sierrafery said:
Then check between each pin in engine bay and all the 3 pins at the sensor to rule out a short in the harness....

what's not working OK? describe again the symptom of SLS behaviour with all the things which are not like they should be and don't be cryptic, every little detail can be relevant in this odd case ...it dives and doesnt keep even level while driving or over night?... the compressor i not kicking in when it should? the ORM is not working ... or what?

make a video about that reversed sensor input reading on hawkeye cos i must see that with my own eyes, maybe it's operator error or something cos at this pont almost everything is ruled out
Click to expand...

Would you be able to do what you did in post 10 for me and tell me what plug and pin numbers I need to check in the ECU wiring harness, haven't quite got the hang on finding them yet..
Well, problem wise. Heres a video of whats happening, (https://photos.app.goo.gl/dQPQHtwKMcyY5Cmw9) as you can see the value goes down when the vehicle is raised. And because of this, when I say turn the ignition off with the vehicle left too low, instead of it lifting the vehicle its lowering it even more because it thinks its raised too high. And vice versa. This is happening on both sides. Its not leaking at all, but obviously it can't keep ride height if it does the opposite of whats it meant to do. Hoping this is some stupid mistake on my part... And this car hasn't had air suspension for many years, I fitted new compressor, new pipe harness, new bags, new sensors.
Only other issues is no dash lights for sls whatsoever, but as you said, they have probably been disabled with nanocom or testbook etc
 
Jamiegreen said:
Would you be able to do what you did in post 10 for me and tell me what plug and pin numbers I need to check in the ECU wiring harness, haven't quite got the hang on finding them yet..
Well, problem wise. Heres a video of whats happening, (https://photos.app.goo.gl/dQPQHtwKMcyY5Cmw9) as you can see the value goes down when the vehicle is raised. And because of this, when I say turn the ignition off with the vehicle left too low, instead of it lifting the vehicle its lowering it even more because it thinks its raised too high. And vice versa. This is happening on both sides. Its not leaking at all, but obviously it can't keep ride height if it does the opposite of whats it meant to do. Hoping this is some stupid mistake on my part... And this car hasn't had air suspension for many years, I fitted new compressor, new pipe harness, new bags, new sensors.
Only other issues is no dash lights for sls whatsoever, but as you said, they have probably been disabled with nanocom or testbook etc
Click to expand...

Also to add, there is a slight variation in sensor heights of maybe 5-10 where I welded the brackets on not perfect. Also I have calibrated it, but again it wont self level at the end because it doesn't think it needs to go down...
 
Jamiegreen said:
Would you be able to do what you did in post 10 for me and tell me what plug and pin numbers I need to check in the ECU wiring harness,
Click to expand...
see post #16 cos the ECU is there at the right side but don't bother with that for now cos from the first part of that video that sensor doesnt seem OK to me and that can be the reason that it reads backwards, i edited a photo of mine, the sensor must give the inputs from the lower quarter of it where the green arrow shows not from the upper pink side,, if your sensor's plastic arm is above that yellow horizontal line it's normal to read reverted cos it's on the other side of the sensor like when you swap it to the other side if the vehicle , i think you should have welded the bracket a bit higher on the chassis, put axle stands under the body, undo the bottom link of the sensor, let it lower than it is and move it downwards while watching the reading... the lower you push it the higher the reading should be....i'm quite sure that the probem is there

SLS sensor movemet.jpg
 
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sierrafery said:
see post #16 cos the ECU is there at the right side but don't bother with that for now cos from the first part of that video that sensor doesnt seem OK to me and that can be the reason that it reads backwards, i edited a photo of mine, the sensor must give the inputs from the lower quarter of it where the green arrow shows not from the upper pink side,, if your sensor's plastic arm is above that yellow horizontal line it's normal to read reverted cos it's on the other side of the sensor like when you swap it to the other side if the vehicle , i think you should have welded the bracket a bit higher on the chassis, put axle stands under the body, undo the bottom link of the sensor, let it lower than it is and move it downwards while watching the reading... the lower you push it the higher the reading should be....i'm quite sure that the probem is there

View attachment 155590
Click to expand...
Cheers, I’ll take a look when I get back in half hour or so.
 
I think the angle of the video has made it look a little worse, but when the airbags are let down all the way it may be close or over that yellow line as you said. I've lifted the vehicle to about ride height, which means the sensors are well below the yellow line, I've disconnected the battery and sensors for 10 mins, and will put them back on in the correct sensor range position. Just wondering, swapping sensors from one side to the other doesn't make any difference does it? As far as I know the sensors aren't sided?

Update: The sensors are well below the yellow line just like yours, but still give the opposite reading.. @sierrafery

I know it sounds a bit stupid, but could the 2 new sensors be at fault and are bad ones? They were just some aftermarket ones from britcar.
 
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Disconnect the bottom link of the sensor and move it with your hand downwards untill the reading will start rising, you can try to swap them to see what happens.... maybe they are fubar from start or D3/RRS sensors cos they have the same plug but different reading curve cos if the wiring to them and the ECU was ruled out nothing else can be, can you see any part number on them?.... i havent ever seen such thing in my life, it simply has no logic
 
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sierrafery said:
Disconnect the bottom link of the sensor and move it with your hand downwards untill the reading will start rising, you can try to swap them to see what happens.... maybe they are fubar from start or D3/RRS sensors cos they have the same plug but different reading curve cos if the wiring to them and the ECU was ruled out nothing else can be, can you see any part number on them?.... i havent ever seen such thing in my life, it simply has no logic
Click to expand...
\well my phone has died so I can't show you a video of it.. but to explain... moving the arm down does nothing but decrease the reading, I've tried every possible way and the only way that reading is going up is to lift the arm up in the wrong direction. tried swapping, no luck. Sensor is part number RQH100030, and thats all it says on it. The sensor has 6 pins on it, whereas the plug has 3, which I found a little odd though.
 
very odd... the p/n is good, i dont know what to say, would be very strange that both sensors to be bad by new but as long as the circuit from them to the ECU is OK and the ECU was ruled out they remain the only suspects... there are cases of wheel hubs with the wrong number of teeh on the reluctpr ring so everything is possible.... eventually remove the glovebox and see if the circuit has continuity like in the diagram but as long as you didnt mess with that i dont see why.... maybe it would be easyer to buy one other brand sensor for test or try with one from the scrapyard first.... i'm out of ideas as well
 
sierrafery said:
very odd... the p/n is good, i dont know what to say, would be very strange that both sensors to be bad by new but as long as the circuit from them to the ECU is OK and the ECU was ruled out they remain the only suspects... there are cases of wheel hubs with the wrong number of teeh on the reluctpr ring so everything is possible.... eventually remove the glovebox and see if the circuit has continuity like in the diagram but as long as you didnt mess with that i dont see why.... maybe it would be easyer to buy one other brand sensor for test or try with one from the scrapyard first.... i'm out of ideas as well
Click to expand...
Just one more thing to mention. I haven't put the brake calipers back on yet so most of the brake system has run pretty dry which is obviously throwing brake light warning etc, but I highly doubt this would cause them to go opposite, also I cant say speed sensors cause the car has been parked in the same spot for 3 weeks as im doing all the work on it so hasn't even moved.
I'll try to work out the ECU plugs and test from there, but will try some new sensors after that I guess..
Thanks
 
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