Rear drum noise could be just crud being dislodged when you worked at it or could be something more sinister. I had a similar issue after working at mine and turned out one of the levers wasn't fitted correctly (by my son!!!!) so double check.
I have the TC and HDC lights coming on but I think it is a faulty brake switch. That seems to be a common issue and my newly bought i930 has indicated a faulty brake switch. I hope to get this replaced today.
Have a search for the procedure for adjusting the handbrake, I think I read somewhere they need to be adjusted correctly or it can cause issues.
 
The HB can only be adjusted correctly, after the rear shoes have adjusted themselves.
It's best to back the HB adjustment nut off enough to give the cables some slack. Then you press the foot brake up to 30 times to ensure the rear shoes are correctly adjusted.
At this point the HB cables can be adjusted to give 4 clicks of the lever. ;)
 
Thanks Nodge.

The workshop manual states that the brakes need to be applied at least 30 times to get the self adjusters adjusted correctly. I know I have applied the brakes quite a number of times, but my schoolboy error was not to counted exactly how many times... So what I'll do this evening is apply the foot brake systematically 30 times and then adjust the hand brake.

Then book the MoT :)
 
It could well be Joe. The back plate has an inner ring that has corroded away. I removed any loose of damaged metal, but it is possible that the drum isn't quite 100% square on. I'll check.
 
LOL! I am rather expecting some additions to the list. I've tried to identify the worst of it though. I'll pop the engine diagnostics on again to see whether there are any current/active faults - I am suspicious that one of the coil packs has a poor connection to the spark plug on cylinder 3... and I'll get the exhaust nicely up to temperature before dropping it off at the MoT centre: the classic "Italian tune up" to blow all the crud from the catalyst :)

Beyond that, who knows? If it's a pass, I'll treat the Hippo to a fresh set of boots and may be a set of modular wheels... ;)
 
Having sorted the hand brake (seized handbrake release lever on the shoe assembly), I'm now supping a cup of coffee: KHD has been dropped off for its MoT!

image.jpeg


Series 3 XJ6 in the test bay and no prizes for identifying the nice coupe parked in front :)

Let's see what they find...
 
... It's a fail.

image.jpeg


Drop link. Could be worse.

A couple of advisories:
Lower suspension arms have corrosion on them (do they rot through?)
Track rod end on near side has slight play

Oh, and a comment: bearing noise.

There certainly is some bearing noise, but I haven't driven it enough(for obvious reasons) to work out where it's coming from.

Wheel bearing or prop bearing?

Sorting the drop link shouldn't be too challenging (I'll replace both). But the bearing could be wearing...
 
rob_bell said:
... It's a fail.

View attachment 112081

Drop link. Could be worse.

A couple of advisories:
Lower suspension arms have corrosion on them (do they rot through?)
Track rod end on near side has slight play

Oh, and a comment: bearing noise.

There certainly is some bearing noise, but I haven't driven it enough(for obvious reasons) to work out where it's coming from.

Wheel bearing or prop bearing?

Sorting the drop link shouldn't be too challenging (I'll replace both). But the bearing could be wearing...
Click to expand...

Not so bad Rob, failing the drop link was a bit mean as it hasn't failed, easy fix though.
As for the lower arms they can rot through if someone has replaced the ball joint but otherwise the ball joints usually go first.
 
Thanks guys. It's a tough centre I know, but if that's all they've found I'm happy :)

There's still a few more jobs to do on this project Hippo before I'm happy, but it's very nearly there. It's been quite a journey, but a great learning experience for me - and that's exactly what I was looking for :D
 
rob_bell said:
Thanks guys. It's a tough centre I know, but if that's all they've found I'm happy :)

There's still a few more jobs to do on this project Hippo before I'm happy, but it's very nearly there. It's been quite a journey, but a great learning experience for me - and that's exactly what I was looking for :D
Click to expand...
Good to hear Rob. I have to admit I enjoy working on Freelanders more than I did my MGF. Which I sold BTW, just not using it enough. :(
 
Replaced both the drop links with a pair purchased from Bearmach - I'm hoping this is a good idea, but these are not OEM parts...

Unlike the LR originals, they don't have the Allen key lock nut, they're zinc plated not painted, and the rubber boots for the ball joints don't have the same moulded narkings (they're blank). Hmmm. Perhaps I will be repenting this choice soon - but at least they're straightforward to change.

But the failed one certainly needed changing:
image.jpeg


As can be seen, the rubber boot has split (both ends in fact) so they'd be letting in the elements. The other side was much much better: evidently replaced before, but who ever had done it had only replaced one and not the pair. A strange decision I think - but short term saving for long term pain IMO.

Re-test at 5pm today. And then a "getting to know you" trip to Wiltshire at the weekend. :)
 
rob_bell said:
A strange decision I think - but short term saving for long term pain IMO.
Click to expand...

Agreed - Penny wise, pound foolish !! Had the same, ahem, "discussion" with our nephew about the drop links on his foreign thing.... he was all for replacing the one :rolleyes:.... and then in replacing the other I found a poorly driveshaft, so he was not happy :eek::D

I've found bearmach stuff to be pretty good - hope you find the same.

Good luck for the re-test - though I'm sure it'll be fine...:)
 
I will use Bearmach in preference to other pattern parts. On the whole, there products are pretty good.
 
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