Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys - I got the impression that they (Bearmach) had a solid reputation, hence my purchase decision. Now, time will tell!
Got them fitted to my TD4. No problems yet, but it's only been 4,000 miles since I fitted them.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
If it passed all the other tests they'll probably only take a look to see the part has been changed and wave you through.Fingers crossed Nodge!
Unfortunately I have had to stay at work, so will get the re-test done tomorrow morning at 8.30.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Yes, that's what I'm expecting Ali
I've bought 5L of Comma oil for the IRD so that's a job still to be done, and I'd like to change the brake fluid that I haven't done yet, but hopefully that's the big jobs. Well, until I get around to doing the OWUT! Oops...
Shhh. Don't mention the OWUT
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Make sure you can get the fill bolt out before draining it. Mine just rounded off like it was made of cheese even though I was using a hex socket!Yes, that's what I'm expecting Ali
I've bought 5L of Comma oil for the IRD so that's a job still to be done, and I'd like to change the brake fluid that I haven't done yet, but hopefully that's the big jobs. Well, until I get around to doing the OWUT! Oops...
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Happy days: the Hippo has an MoT! A small road trip planned for the weekend
For the IRD, i've already invested in an oil filling syringe thingy And hopefully I'll be able to get the fill plug out: I'll keep you posted!
I think the next purchase will be a nice new set of tyres (the Geolanders in 215/65 R16) - thanks for the heads up on these Nodge
Apart from the existing tyres being a Chinese brand I've never heard of, I seem to get the traction control light coming on with remarkably little provocation - one of the front wheels looses grip particularly coming out of T-junctions. I suspect the tyres aren't capable of generating much in the way of grip. Or is early activation of the TC a "feature" of the FL1? I've not read this before, so I guess not!
The final decision is whether to keep the existing 16" wheels - or to buy a set of Modulars. I was concerned to read on an older thread that they're not hub-centric? If that's the case, I'll keep with the alloys. But I like the look of the steel wheels, and I can reduce the offset to fill the arches a little better (remember, my Hippo has the "delightful" dealer-fit body kit on it!)
A small road trip planned for the weekend For the IRD, i've already invested in an oil filling syringe thingy
And hopefully I'll be able to get the fill plug out: I'll keep you posted!I think the next purchase will be a nice new set of tyres (the Geolanders in 215/65 R16) - thanks for the heads up on these Nodge
Apart from the existing tyres being a Chinese brand I've never heard of, I seem to get the traction control light coming on with remarkably little provocation - one of the front wheels looses grip particularly coming out of T-junctions. I suspect the tyres aren't capable of generating much in the way of grip. Or is early activation of the TC a "feature" of the FL1? I've not read this before, so I guess not!
The final decision is whether to keep the existing 16" wheels - or to buy a set of Modulars. I was concerned to read on an older thread that they're not hub-centric? If that's the case, I'll keep with the alloys. But I like the look of the steel wheels, and I can reduce the offset to fill the arches a little better (remember, my Hippo has the "delightful" dealer-fit body kit on it!)
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Well done on the MOT.Happy days: the Hippo has an MoT!
For the IRD, i've already invested in an oil filling syringe thingy
I think the next purchase will be a nice new set of tyres (the Geolanders in 215/65 R16) - thanks for the heads up on these Nodge
Apart from the existing tyres being a Chinese brand I've never heard of, I seem to get the traction control light coming on with remarkably little provocation - one of the front wheels looses grip particularly coming out of T-junctions. I suspect the tyres aren't capable of generating much in the way of grip. Or is early activation of the TC a "feature" of the FL1? I've not read this before, so I guess not!
The final decision is whether to keep the existing 16" wheels - or to buy a set of Modulars. I was concerned to read on an older thread that they're not hub-centric? If that's the case, I'll keep with the alloys. But I like the look of the steel wheels, and I can reduce the offset to fill the arches a little better (remember, my Hippo has the "delightful" dealer-fit body kit on it!)
The 1.8 Freelander is the worst for TC action. It's a combination of factors that cause it. First off will be cheap tyres. The next is down to power unit weight, or lack of. The 1.8 power unit weighs just 125 Kgs.
The gearing is the lowest available on a FL1.
The K series is also a very sprightly engine.
So when all these factors come together. You get a nippy 4X4 that does break traction on demand at junctions and things.
The TC and VCU will keep you moving, even if the front wheels spin a bit
Personally, I'd avoid wheels that aren't hub-centric.
Have you thought about changing to 17" Trek alloys. They are wider than the 16" alloys, so fill the arches better. They will also take Yokohama Geolander AT-S in 225/65/17. This will give you an instant 20mm lift for free
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rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Thanks Nodge - the K is a great little light weight unit, so yes, I can see what you mean about having much less weight over the front wheels. And carp tyres won't be helping.
I also 100% agree: if the wheels are not hub centric, then I will not use them. I do like the 17" wheels on the Freelander - very tempting. They're 7J aren't they? But could also consider early FL wheels and do what Ali has done and use 5mm spacers (although I am generally allergic to spacers)
Ali, no, not yet done the VCU check - but if the VCU has "locked up", then that would give four wheel spin? I think the problem is with the no-brand Chinese tyres...
I also 100% agree: if the wheels are not hub centric, then I will not use them. I do like the 17" wheels on the Freelander - very tempting. They're 7J aren't they? But could also consider early FL wheels and do what Ali has done and use 5mm spacers (although I am generally allergic to spacers)
Ali, no, not yet done the VCU check - but if the VCU has "locked up", then that would give four wheel spin? I think the problem is with the no-brand Chinese tyres...
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Yes 17" Trek alloys are 7X17 ET46. I have 225/60/17 Maxxis Bravo 771 on mine at the moment. I don't like spacers myself, which is why I fitted the Trek alloys. I wanted to get more rubber on the floor with stiffer side walls. Low pro tyres have much wider tread than the slight size increase would suggest. This is a major benefit when it comes to grip. The stiffer side walls really tighten up the steering response too. Switching to 17s was the best improvement in drive-ability I could make, while keeping it good off road.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
You can buy shims to bring them down to the correct diameter. Just a few quid off ebay and work a treat.Centre bore diameter of the modular wheel is 66.1mm. The centre bore diameter of the Freelander 1 is 64.1mm.
(PCD for my information is 5x114.3mm)
Why make a modular wheel with a centre bore that is just 2mm larger than the car it is intended to fit???
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Are all other
Are the other 17" wheel styles also 7J? Hmmm - given me more to think about now! LOL
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Yes I believe they are all 7X17 ET46. The Trek look the best imo though. When I get time, I'll referb mine in gloss black.
