If I had space for the bottles, I'd seriously consider getting an oxy-acetylene kit: so many different uses! :)
 
Despite working the weekend, I was able to flatten the welded repair on the boss (thanks everyone for all the helpful advice - and you were spot on Rich, the Ali does gum the file despite my best efforts: I used a sanding block in the end). Then I was able to get the head in my pillar drill for the guide hole, drilled it to size and then tapped with a M8 X 1.5 die, and put in the manifold stud.

image.jpeg

Happy days: the inlet manifold sits on this perfectly!

So sit rep is that I am now at a point where I can re build the top of the engine! It's taken an awful long time, but I've learnt a tonne along the way, which was rather the whole point of the project! :D
 
rob_bell said:
Despite working the weekend, I was able to flatten the welded repair on the boss (thanks everyone for all the helpful advice - and you were spot on Rich, the Ali does gum the file despite my best efforts: I used a sanding block in the end). Then I was able to get the head in my pillar drill for the guide hole, drilled it to size and then tapped with a M8 X 1.5 die, and put in the manifold stud.

View attachment 109198

Happy days: the inlet manifold sits on this perfectly!

So sit rep is that I am now at a point where I can re build the top of the engine! It's taken an awful long time, but I've learnt a tonne along the way, which was rather the whole point of the project! :D
Click to expand...
Well done Rob. !
First class job and excellent work. It is really good to see someone taking there time to job a properly as opposed to some of the bodge jobs.:rolleyes:
Lovely job.
Gold star :cool:
 
Thanks guys! :D Hopefully the next post here will be the head going back on, and me completing a full service :)

The cam belt is going to be changed - I would have done this anyway, but now absolutely necessary as the belt on the engine is for an automatic tensioner, and the replacement head has a manual: different size/length belt! LOL

My plan of attack is to get the head back on the engine - then I won't be worried about the liners accidentally shifting when loosening off the crank pulley screw with a windy gun to access the cam belt.

Hmm, perhaps I should order in the accessory belts? I haven't got these yet...
 
Definitely put the head on before attempting the pulley bolt. But don't turn the engine over as pistons and valves will make contact ;). That is assuming that the pistons aren't at TDC now.
 
:) No, the pistons are in the safe position

I'll lock the flywheel before undoing the crank screw, but I didn't want to risk this until the head was securely back on the engine.
 
Nodge68 said:
Definitely put the head on before attempting the pulley bolt. But don't turn the engine over as pistons and valves will make contact ;). That is assuming that the pistons aren't at TDC now.
Click to expand...
Don't worry - the pistons are in the "safe" position. :)

Interestingly the majority of the on-line guides show the cylinder head removal process with the crank 180 degrees out. I followed these rather than the workshop manual - which isn't too much of a problem unless you move the crank relative to the cams and need to restore the original crank position...

Nothing has moved so I am good to go. I'll lock the flywheel before going at the crank pulley screw with the windy gun - I wasn't keen on attempting this and risking even slight movement of the crank displacing the liner seals - so I hadn't made a great deal of progress on this. In retrospect, I should have removed the crank pulley and changed the belts before lifting the head - but it is only a little time lost.
 
Busy afternoon - the head is back on! :)

Here's what the engine bay looked like at the end of play:

image.jpeg

Tomorrow, I'll change the cam belt, water pump and tensioner, and refill with fluids and go for a start! Fingers crossed I haven't made any booboos along the way...
 
Been away on hols for the last week, but to bring up to date, the Sunday before going away saw quite a lot of work being done. Sadly the phone battery was flat, so no pictures. But in essence, what I now have is an engine with new belts, new water pump (that was a pain!) and a new tensioner. All the covers bar the one over the coil packs are back on. The engine has fresh oil.

Unfortunately I ran out of light at this point and needed to pack, but to get to engine start, I need to fill the coolant system with water (not sure that a detergent will be needed) and reconnect the coil packs and battery. That's practically it. :)

One problem though: the coil packs don't seem to be fitting particularly positively upon the spark plugs. I'm expecting to feel a reassuring "click" when pushing them on, as you do with HT leads. I am slightly loathe to change the coil packs, as they were working well on my limited experience with the engine running (and there are no stored coil-pack related error messages) - so the question is, am I making a mountain out of a mole hill?

As it happens, I have a spare pair of MEMS3 coil packs that I can fit...
 
I seem to recall they kinda squidge onto the plugs like you say so wouldn't worry. When you get the car running you might want to change them anyway as they'll be past there best.
Why was the water pump a pain? Did you see the bolt that comes from the back? Did you use a smear of sealant to hold the rubber seal in position? A 1/4" socket set with a swivel adapter is pretty much essential for some of the bolts.
 
Might be an idea to change anyway, like you say Ali.

The water pump was only a bit of a pain in terms of accessing all the bolts. I wasn't quite expecting that ('coz I am a man, and I didn't read the instructions in the workshop manual! LOL) Yeah, the one screw from the back was fun... LOL

The smear of sealant is a good tip! No, I didn't, but the seal seemed to stay in place okay after a bit of mucking around :)

This weekend I hope to have the car running again - and then off to the MoT and work through all the other little niggles!
 
I use silicone grease to help keep the pump O ring in place. I find replacing the Freelander WP a pain. The MGF pump is much easier to get at!

Good luck with the MOT;)
 
Happy days: filled the coolant system with water, screws down the coil packs and connected the battery, and bimmey, it started first turn of the key!

A happy little Hippo!

image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
Took it for a short drive around the block. The OSR brake is clearly binding: may be good news insofar as the binding sensation when I first drive it may simply be that rather than the VCU - will sort it before determining the health of the unit.

Oh, and I've lost a brake light, and despite replacing the teverse light switch on the gearbox, I still don't have reversing lights?!? It's dark now, so will get busy with a multimeter again in the light.

image.jpeg
 
But over all rather happy: the engine appears water right after an hour running, the rad fan kicks in and out as it should and it ticks over nice and quietly.

Getting there I hope! :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Freelander 2 (LR2) Tailgate opens when I open the driver door
Replies
2
Views
369
Nodge68
Nodge68
R
Driver Door & Driver Rear Issue
Replies
2
Views
648
Badger688
Badger688
xDParis64
Rear Door Questions.
Replies
12
Views
501
xDParis64
xDParis64
Bife
Freelander 1 Central Locking Unlocking but not locking
Replies
16
Views
686
Jimbo70
J
xDParis64
Hello Again! (SOLVED, Engine replacement)
2 3
Replies
56
Views
3K
xDParis64
xDParis64