Joe_H
Well-Known Member
- they are ok on flat bar and smooth surfaces if you are in a pickle, but totally crappo on castings.I have a small invertor stick welder (about 120A) - you can pick it up with one finger - Used to weld Inox (Stainless) - usually 304 or 316L whe we were live-aboard on the 'yott'. Obviously using coated inox rods. Pretty good results actually. Tried ally rods once on a casting (the same heat exchanger I mentioned before) and it was like mini frag mines of ally bits everytime it contacted - yikes ... on flat bar it was possible to make a joint - not one you would want anyone to see as it looked like you had probably had too many 'joints' before. Bought the stick welder in Spain - about 150 euros over 7 years ago and still superb.
Joe_H
Well-Known Member
I've dropped the cylinder head in to the fabricator. He's not sure he can weld it, but may re-build the metal for me to drill and tap - which is fine with me. So is the anticipated cost: £20.
I rang him and he said a tenner at the most but I told him you would go for 20
Do you want the address for the beer ? - or are you delivering it and delving into the fridge.
Joe_H
Well-Known Member
If you 'delivered' it, you could partake of the exceedingly pleasant weather and extremely cold fridge - and a few nice tracks....LOL! I'll pop the beer in the post. Hope it don't leak from the envelope...
Winter is coming soon and it has dropped to 30 during the say - 26 at the moment and sat here with woolly jumper on. Promise I won't laugh at the shorts....
Joe_H
Well-Known Member
Sounds good to meHeading to Lisbon for the half term! The plan to have the Hippo ready for this trek was sadly shelved a while ago, but hope to do the trip again - WITH the car!
It would be great if you can come in the Hippo next time.. We can have a cold one or 10
Let me know in advance so I can give you a 'shopping list' lol ... you know the kind of stuff .....
Car parts,
HP Sauce
Car parts,
Heinz baked beans
Car parts
Marmite
etc etc
Joe_H
Well-Known Member
Err, nope - I had a cunning plan that I didn't want to give away - the car WAS the car parts ...I think you've missed some car parts Joe!
But sounds like a plan to me
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Your brave.
Can you get a machine shop to grind it flat. Might need the whole thing skimmed anyway as it could have warped with the heat of welding.
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Good point. I'll get a straight edge and feeler gauges to check, but would hope that the heat of welding was localised a decent distance from the head face. This mounting boss is also outside the gasket sealing surface, so I would hope that it won't be too critical to get perfect - not least because I don't fancy removing the existing studs after the experience of this one!!!
But very prepared to be persuaded if needed
But very prepared to be persuaded if needed
Joe_H
Well-Known Member
Yippeee
You can file that back without any issues. What you need is the thin adhesive metal tape they use on pipe ducting - a heavy duty aluminium tape - hopefully you know what I mean.
Put the tape on the main inlet flange area near to the stud hole and cover a large enough area so the file cannot mark it - but, it can be used as a guide surface. Also wrap the tape around the file on the area to be used on the guide (that is IMPORTANT) - but obviously not the cutting area on the new stud flange lol lube it so that where the file touches the face of the inlet area it will be effectively sliding on the two foil surfaces. That foil tape is bl00dy strong stuff ! (hope that makes sense - say if it doesnt)
Now carefully file the new weld flat with a good quality medium flat file. The face of the inlet area will act a a guide and the tape will stop any marking of that area (when you get almost down to the face level that is) . the lube on the tape will also make for a nice smooth and easy action.
The glue on the tape is incredibly strong and you will have a bit of fun getting it off, but careful scraping will do it. . on the file usee acetone or thinners if stuck on.
You will get a really nice finish that way and the foil tape makes a really good guide.
For a final finish when level with the tape, use the file in a sideways motion for the final finish cut.
Hope that sorts it for ya.
Joe.
Hi Rob, the localised heat of the tig shouldn't have caused any warping in any critical area at all, it is too localised . That is the beauty of tig for a small job like that as the massive heat sink of the head rapidly dissipates the heat. - Aluminium is a superb conductor of heat also. I wouldn't give it a second thought personally but by all means straight edge it.... measure twice cut one etc.Good point. I'll get a straight edge and feeler gauges to check, but would hope that the heat of welding was localised a decent distance from the head face. This mounting boss is also outside the gasket sealing surface, so I would hope that it won't be too critical to get perfect - not least because I don't fancy removing the existing studs after the experience of this one!!!
But very prepared to be persuaded if needed
You can file that back without any issues. What you need is the thin adhesive metal tape they use on pipe ducting - a heavy duty aluminium tape - hopefully you know what I mean.
Put the tape on the main inlet flange area near to the stud hole and cover a large enough area so the file cannot mark it - but, it can be used as a guide surface. Also wrap the tape around the file on the area to be used on the guide (that is IMPORTANT) - but obviously not the cutting area on the new stud flange lol
lube it so that where the file touches the face of the inlet area it will be effectively sliding on the two foil surfaces. That foil tape is bl00dy strong stuff ! (hope that makes sense - say if it doesnt)Now carefully file the new weld flat with a good quality medium flat file. The face of the inlet area will act a a guide and the tape will stop any marking of that area (when you get almost down to the face level that is) . the lube on the tape will also make for a nice smooth and easy action.
The glue on the tape is incredibly strong and you will have a bit of fun getting it off, but careful scraping will do it.
. on the file usee acetone or thinners if stuck on.You will get a really nice finish that way and the foil tape makes a really good guide.
For a final finish when level with the tape, use the file in a sideways motion for the final finish cut.
Hope that sorts it for ya.
Joe.
Last edited:
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Luckily not Ali - it is part of the inlet flange. And I agree Joe - the alloy head is a very good heat sink from my "experiment" at the weekend with the butane torch!
Great hint to use alloy tape. I have some in the garage. I was going to use standard masking tape, but I like your idea much better
Great hint to use alloy tape. I have some in the garage. I was going to use standard masking tape, but I like your idea much better
Rich in Vancouver
Well-Known Member
When filing aluminum clean your file frequently (sometimes every stroke or two) to remove any bits of metal pinned in the teeth of the file, otherwise you risk getting deep scratches in the surface being filed.
