rob_bell said:
I couldn't have said it better myself Nodge! ;)

Unfortunately it was dark when I got home last night, and I've left the head bolts in the block for safe keeping for now. But I'll inspect the heads for those "KX" marks. :)
Click to expand...
In my experience, the Kamax bolts will last at least two head gasket changes. Check the length is under the 97mm shown above. If so, they'll be fine for reuse.
 
Already checked length - they're all okay. It's just the heritage and unknown history that has me concerned. I think Alibro is right: given what I know of the last gasket change, a new set of bolts is probably the most sensible approach!

I'll keep these ones though - with the plan to adopt them into liner retaining bolts for when the cylinder head is off for future K-series based engine projects :)
 
rob_bell said:
Already checked length - they're all okay. It's just the heritage and unknown history that has me concerned. I think Alibro is right: given what I know of the last gasket change, a new set of bolts is probably the most sensible approach!

I'll keep these ones though - with the plan to adopt them into liner retaining bolts for when the cylinder head is off for future K-series based engine projects :)
Click to expand...
I have a box load of old head bolts and they get used for all sorts. ;)
 
Just going through all the parts I think I'll need to get the engine back together (hopefully this weekend).

Because I am swapping over the cylinder head coolant elbow pipe from the scrap head to the replacement, I also need a gasket that sadly is not part of the gasket kit supplied by DMGS - oh well. A little under a fiver off the bay of fleas (seems excessive amount for a bit of gasket material cut to shape, but oh well, it'll save some time).

I have a manual tensioner and belt. But bad news: I don't have the bolts! Inevitably, the manual tensioner uses different screws to the autotensioner originally on the engine. Rimmers want the best part of £3 plus delivery for these. Again - seems rather excessive if you ask me!

Anyone know the specification of these bolts? The central cap screw, from the Rimmers website, is M10x25. Is it high tensile 8.8 or a standard material grade? There is also a flanged screw that retains the tension arm in position. No specs on the website, but I would guess an M8x25?
 
The tension screw is an M6 X 16 flanged screw. Handily I have all of the above... And then I had an idea to look at one of the engines I have stowed away and voila!

image.jpeg

I have an old one with both screws, plus the spring that Rimmer Bros want more than 10 quid for!

Result :)
 
I took a piccie of the engine bolts:

image.jpeg

No manufacturers marks to be seen.

Curiously, the head bolts I bought some years ago are similarly devoid of markings? I think I got these from an MG show... But they're unused so probably good to use at least once! ;)
 
rob_bell said:
The tension screw is an M6 X 16 flanged screw. Handily I have all of the above... And then I had an idea to look at one of the engines I have stowed away and voila!

View attachment 108223

I have an old one with both screws, plus the spring that Rimmer Bros want more than 10 quid for!

Result :)
Click to expand...

Make sure that the pre-tension spring is for the normal K16, not the VVC. They are set at a different tension for each type of engine.
The non VVC spring has a plastic sleeve over the spring coils. The VVC spring is open with the coils on show.
 
rob_bell said:
I took a piccie of the engine bolts:

View attachment 108224

No manufacturers marks to be seen.

Curiously, the head bolts I bought some years ago are similarly devoid of markings? I think I got these from an MG show... But they're unused so probably good to use at least once! ;)
Click to expand...

Those bolts aren't OE Kamax bolts. They are likely to a copy, some of which are poor quality with reduced clamping loads.
I would use the original bolts that measured ok. Or get a set of proper replacement bolts.
 
Nodge68 said:
Those bolts aren't OE Kamax bolts. They are likely to a copy, some of which are poor quality with reduced clamping loads.
I would use the original bolts that measured ok. Or get a set of proper replacement bolts.
Click to expand...
Ah nuts. Okay. I'll buy some decent ones then. I hope I can get them before the weekend!
 
I deleted the tensioner spring and just set the tension manually. It seems to be just one more thing that can fall off and destroy the cam belt. It may work well when the engine is assembled on the bench but is very awkward to get working properly when changing the belts with the engine in the car. (It's a massive pain in the MGF!)
It really isn't a bad idea to replace the tensioner bolts as if they fail it's a very bad thing.
Mind you I've never seen one fail so there you go. :confused:
 
Rich in Vancouver said:
I deleted the tensioner spring and just set the tension manually. It seems to be just one more thing that can fall off and destroy the cam belt.
Mind you I've never seen one fail so there you go. :confused:
Click to expand...
The spring is for tensioning the belt on fitting.
The spring and pillar bolt are supposed to removed after the the tensioner locking bolt is secured. This way, there's nothing there to fall off when the engine is running;)
 
Nodge68 said:
The spring is for tensioning the belt on fitting.
The spring and pillar bolt are supposed to removed after the the tensioner locking bolt is secured. This way, there's nothing there to fall off when the engine is running;)
Click to expand...
Yes, exactly - but as you can see in the picture above, more often than not, the spring and pillar bolt are left in place.

I don't think that leaving it there is a big deal. The pillar screw can be loctited in place, and the spring should lead a sheltered life under the cam cover - but removing the spring is not a big deal IMO.
 
Three steps forward, two steps back today.

Today I've been rebuilding the cylinder head. I cleaned the threads on the exhaust studs - a good precaution as it turns out thanks to a build up of corrosion and dirt.

image.jpeg

After I torqued them in as per workshop manual specs.

image.jpeg

Repeated with the inlet manifold studs too - this is where I have encountered a massive problem - but I'll come back to that.

Coolant rail reattached with a fresh gasket...

image.jpeg

Then I could turn my attention to the cam ladder. New Loctite sealant applied in a bead to ensure that the engine remains oil tight:

image.jpeg

Then all was needed was to bolt the cam carrier down in the workshop manual described sequence to 10Nm.

Happy days and ready for bolting back onto the engine tomorrow.
 
Or it would be had this not happened:

image.jpeg

The boss of the inlet manifold stud has cracked. Argh!

Now wondering what to do. Alloy brazing may not be strong enough. I may need to get it TiG welded?

Bu99er.

Have friends round for a late lunch. Will have to sleep on it now. Such a shame: the engine would likely to running again tomorrow if had this not happened! :(
 
I've seen them crack there before. Iirc the stud threads are well below the crack at that point.
It's entirely possible that it'll not be a problem when it's back together.
However it doesn't stop you knowing it's there.
 
I was thinking just to put it all together now - the stud isn't about to fall out, but I fear that that corner will ultimately fall off if left unattended.

Perhaps I'll drill the ends of the cracks to stop them extending and I'll think about some alloy braze: I have some low melting point aluminium rods here to try...

I'll have some thinks over night...
 
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