marjon said:
I hate to say it then :(

Is it the diff that’s the problem? Just throwing it around as I thought it was the long shaft.

I get confused easily being a LHDrivey

And as for the colouring, no idea:oops:.

Don’t jump in think first. Poke that shaft back in and do some tests maybe.
Both wheels up, turn each both ways.
One wheel up can you turn, do both sides.

I don’t want to send you down the wrong track/ taking **** apart.
If you put that triiod joint together on the bench does it turn both ways regardless of angle(I reckon it does)

J
Click to expand...

Just put that shaft back in, took the caliper off other side so i can turn it freely.

It's on stands, turn the prop and both driveshafts turn same speed. Hold one to mimic wheel on the ground and turn prop, the other side turns.

Hold propshaft and turn one driveshaft, other driveshaft turns.

I've got play up and down at both inner CV where they go into the diff

Don't know what else to test lol leaning towards just dropping the diff, getting it looked at by local specialist and 2 new driveshafts or get those looked at by a local driveshaft specialist. Or kill it with fire.
 
2 new driveshafts aren’t mega expensive, so I’d get them and if you suspect diff is failing have it checked.
 
1988smithy said:
I've got play up and down at both inner CV where they go into the diff
Click to expand...

I hate to say it, again but something don’t sound right in that diff. To stop anymore speculation, pull other shaft and have a good look first. Then move to the diff, then we will all know for sure.

Sorry you got to get it out again but I can’t think of any other option.

Your test again have got me confused cos they don’t match the other set of test you did, unless it’s because you have less resistance on the outside of the diff now with things off, so whatever is the problem can still overcome with less resistance.
Sorry speculation again:oops:

I guess you have tomorrow work list now:D

Good luck.

J
 
Henry_b said:
I'd hazard you would of heard a failing diff.

Any noise?
Click to expand...

Both driveshafts out and extension tube off diff now. Turning prop and using stethoscope only noise I can hear is a scraping from prop flange end of the diff. Rough pinion bearing?
 
marjon said:
I hate to say it, again but something don’t sound right in that diff. To stop anymore speculation, pull other shaft and have a good look first. Then move to the diff, then we will all know for sure.

Sorry you got to get it out again but I can’t think of any other option.

Your test again have got me confused cos they don’t match the other set of test you did, unless it’s because you have less resistance on the outside of the diff now with things off, so whatever is the problem can still overcome with less resistance.
Sorry speculation again:oops:

I guess you have tomorrow work list now:D

Good luck.

J
Click to expand...

Either or, it'd be daft not to drop diff now I'm this deep lol might as well get it all 100% before it goes back together
 
marjon said:
What did the long shaft look like?

J
Click to expand...

As good as the short one mate. Split it at the inner joint, plenty of grease and nothing stand out wrong with it. The bearing in the extension tube is noisy when i spin the shaft in it on the bench though...sounds dry but its like an open roller bearing so guessing its lubed by the diff oil
20190615_171911.jpg


Notice evidence A figure 1.3, split oil seal in foreground.

Gbox crossmember bolts and mount bolt are cracked off, gbox supported by jack so tomorrow it's just swing the x member down, undo the prop and drop the diff. Easy peasy :rolleyes:
 
Not sure why you need to mess with the gearbox X member to remove diff?

Anyway good luck

J
 
The props not been on that long should be ok to give enough space to come out of flanges? You don’t actually need it out, just off.

But hey all your nuts are well greased so no issue undoing a few extras:)

J.

Oppps sorry nut and bolts well greased :)
 
marjon said:
The props not been on that long should be ok to give enough space to come out of flanges? You don’t actually need it out, just off.

But hey all your nuts are well greased so no issue undoing a few extras:)

J.

Oppps sorry nut and bolts well greased :)
Click to expand...

I just remember havin an absolute ballache getting clearance last time. Think I tried just diff end off and sliding diff forward but couldn't get clearance to drop it.

I've got time anyway cuz the **** welder ain't got in touch so ive gotta ring someone else Monday :mad:
 
Can I just say.

The diff flange and transfer box flange distance does not change when removing the X member :)

Anyway hope it don’t rain tomorrow and that welder comes through for you.

J
 
marjon said:
Can I just say.

The diff flange and transfer box flange distance does not change when removing the X member :)

Anyway hope it don’t rain tomorrow and that welder comes through for you.

J
Click to expand...
It does when you jack the gearbox up a bit
 
far to much swarf on that drain plug and in between the shaft splines for my liking, something is chewing itself to pieces to cause all that, I know the diff has been apart for bearings but has it been shimmed up correctly ( if applicable) ? is the new shaft the correct lengh?

Just another thought, is there a yet diagnosed issue with the transmission which could be causing the diff to take the brunt of the issue being a currently weaker part ? eg wind up or something thats been repaired prior to your ownership that wasn't done properly?

Might be worth a surf though the service history to check
 
Diff out yesterday, left hand bearing is noisy but not pitted. Nothing screamingly obvious wrong, no broken or chipped gear teeth or mountain of swarf. But im not an expert by a long stretch.

I put the extension tube in the vice and spun a driveshaft inside. The roller bearing in the tube is very noisy.

LUKBENPHI said:
far to much swarf on that drain plug and in between the shaft splines for my liking, something is chewing itself to pieces to cause all that, I know the diff has been apart for bearings but has it been shimmed up correctly ( if applicable) ? is the new shaft the correct lengh?

Just another thought, is there a yet diagnosed issue with the transmission which could be causing the diff to take the brunt of the issue being a currently weaker part ? eg wind up or something thats been repaired prior to your ownership that wasn't done properly?

Might be worth a surf though the service history to check
Click to expand...

I think the shìte you can see in the splines is grease mate, but yeah that's a lot on the plug isn't it?

Prop is correct length, I hope diff was shimmed correctly cuz it's back at the same specialists now! I only had the 1 bearing changed last time.

It had a new clutch under p.o. I'll have a look thru paperwork now mate
 
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