bitnix · May 4, 2015

So here is another productive day. I've carried out some more servicing changing the air filter, pollen filter and the fuel filter. And most importantly fixed the steering rack - no more up and down play (which is an MOT failure) and fully functioning electric adjustment up and down and backwards and forwards. From the initial look someone already looked at it and fixed it with a ZIP TIE! That fix might have lasted but it didn't. Now it is fully fixed with a metal plate.

Got a good deal on the filters from Eurocarparts and also bought some Redex to flush the fuel system and some coolant although I found that the car has the red coolant in so will go replace it with the other one.

Old pollen filter vs new.

Old air filter vs new.

Old fuel filter vs new.

And this is what I found lying down on the bottom of the engine cover - pulley from my aircon compressor. I had a closer look and it doesn't look damaged but it looks like the middle screw holding it in place unscrewed itself and let it go! Need aircon for summer so will jump on it.

When it came to steering rack motor here is what I found:

Well now it is all back together and working it was easy to take out not so easy to put back in but is now great.

So the fixes are coming along nicely! All low cost so far. I got all the oils on the order now including the gearbox, diffs and transfer box. So that will finish off the service when it comes to fluids. Next onto wrapping the interior panels in piano black!

bitnix · May 4, 2015

Can anyone tell me where I can start on this:

TRANSFERBOX NEUTRAL message with a chime. It doesn't affect the drive it just drives me crazy.

Video below: (by the way is there a BB code to embed YouTube videos in the post on this forum?)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8Iu92_Mc4Q

holidaychicken · May 4, 2015

You are doing well so far
Have you got yourself any diagnostic kit yet like the Allcomms ?

What happens when you actually shift into low / high ?

i think there is a potentiometer on the shift motor that goes bad and i don't think there has been a reliable fix although there has been a lot of discussion on one of the other forums, see link below with input from the legend that is RRPhil or Bemble on here

Transfer box potentiometer dimensions for gyrogypsy

Not sure if there is a more simple fix rather than replacing the shift motor which will be more pricey than you have done so far although normally loads on Ebay

bitnix · May 7, 2015

Quick update:

I've got the mirror parts

And I also retrieved the compressor wheel:

bitnix · May 7, 2015

holidaychicken said:
You are doing well so far
Have you got yourself any diagnostic kit yet like the Allcomms ?

What happens when you actually shift into low / high ?

i think there is a potentiometer on the shift motor that goes bad and i don't think there has been a reliable fix although there has been a lot of discussion on one of the other forums, see link below with input from the legend that is RRPhil or Bemble on here

Transfer box potentiometer dimensions for gyrogypsy

Not sure if there is a more simple fix rather than replacing the shift motor which will be more pricey than you have done so far although normally loads on Ebay

Thanks for your reply.

As per diagnostic kit I do not have any thing Land Rover specific. I am stringing things together using Autoboss V30 and Autocom. I'm going through the BMW X5 connections since the only Range Rover on there is the 4.4 V8. I have some error codes there I believe and I haven't decoded them fully yet.

As per shifting it I haven't dare to do it yet since I am not aware what is the issue and I was afraid that it might get stuck in a position that will make me unable to drive it everyday. But from what I've seen on the link you provided that this is most likely the potentiomener. Can you buy a replacement somewhere? Or do I need to attempt fixing the current one or are we talking new transfer box?

I can take it all apart and comfortably dig inside. Will keep you posted.

Thanks!

holidaychicken · May 7, 2015

The transfer boxes are known to get stuck in either high or low and having recently stripped one down i can see why as its quite a stiff mechanism to move.
i haven't read that thread for a while but unless they came up with anything then i don't know of any other method.

Of course see what your diagnostics say as it could be ECU related or general wiring and the TB may be fine. The shift motor is changed easily without removing the TB or anything else for that matter, but care does have to be taken not to lose the engagement between the shift drive and the internal mechanism otherwise you will be stripping it down. follow rave manual and also there is a vid on youtube. The shift motors are on ebay but about £300 as they are a fairly common item to change.

The attached phots show you what you are dealing with and the internal bits that move when high or low are selected.
There is a method or actually engaging transfer box neutral which involves either adding or removing a fuse into the fuse box but you are wise not to meddle until you are ready to be disabled..

bitnix · May 7, 2015

holidaychicken said:
The transfer boxes are known to get stuck in either high or low and having recently stripped one down i can see why as its quite a stiff mechanism to move.
i haven't read that thread for a while but unless they came up with anything then i don't know of any other method.

Of course see what your diagnostics say as it could be ECU related or general wiring and the TB may be fine. The shift motor is changed easily without removing the TB or anything else for that matter, but care does have to be taken not to lose the engagement between the shift drive and the internal mechanism otherwise you will be stripping it down. follow rave manual and also there is a vid on youtube. The shift motors are on ebay but about £300 as they are a fairly common item to change.

The attached phots show you what you are dealing with and the internal bits that move when high or low are selected.
There is a method or actually engaging transfer box neutral which involves either adding or removing a fuse into the fuse box but you are wise not to meddle until you are ready to be disabled..

View attachment 71287

View attachment 71288

View attachment 71289

I'm pretty sure that my problem is with the potentiometer as sometimes it beeps crazy between the TRANSFERBOX NEUTRAL and HIGH RANGE.

Do you have the correct readings that the potentiometer should be operating with? We are going try to rebuild the carbon tracks with a new design and go the custom way.

I had a look at RAVE and the diagrams look easy. Tomorrow I will pop down to Land Rover and ask if they can source me the potentiometer. I know it is a long shot but maybe I can pressure them into it.

holidaychicken · May 7, 2015

I think everything you need is in that post i linked by Gyrogypsy above and good luck with landrover, there are long shots and there are shots where you can't even see the target ......

bitnix · May 8, 2015

holidaychicken said:
I think everything you need is in that post i linked by Gyrogypsy above and good luck with landrover, there are long shots and there are shots where you can't even see the target ......

I studied it carefully and it is a great one! Since that setting in the car was probably used so rarely I think there could be some debris inside the potentiometer that affects the reading.

You could relate to an old stereo when you were moving the volume knob and it would make that scratching noise - all that good old tech.

So I will start exercise the motor to see if it will go away by itself. If it won't then will take it out to go do a deep clean and maybe readjust the sensor but not as much so it will scratch the surface.

I'm going to pop into the main dealer and make a fuss today and see how that goes.

If everything else fails I will be working on a custom circuit board to simulate the shaft position and send the correct signal to the ECU.

It seems bizarre to me that you have to replace the whole transfer motor assembly for lots of £££ to fix what is in a nutshell a sensor like problem.

Will keep you posted.

bitnix · May 8, 2015

So I took a trip to local Guy Salmon Land Rover dealership to ask to supply me the part. Long story short they only sell the whole assembly and they only wanted £1524+VAT so I just ordered it as I thought what the hell. Now your face probably is like this

. And now I tell you that it's only a joke me doing it but the price is real haha. I took the RAVE image and the print out from the link with me and they supplied me with a print out on the left side.

Anyway I will keep looking at it later in the week now. I will also see if I can get some kind of BMW technical information (since X5 is the L322 small brother) to source the part through them (another long shot).

Datatek · May 8, 2015

bitnix said:
So I took a trip to local Guy Salmon Land Rover dealership to ask to supply me the part. Long story short they only sell the whole assembly and they only wanted £1524+VAT so I just ordered it as I thought what the hell. Now your face probably is like this . And now I tell you that it's only a joke me doing it but the price is real haha. I took the RAVE image and the print out from the link with me and they supplied me with a print out on the left side.

Anyway I will keep looking at it later in the week now. I will also see if I can get some kind of BMW technical information (since X5 is the L322 small brother) to source the part through them (another long shot).

Throw the motor away and rig up a proper manual selection lever.

davidsmith1307 · May 8, 2015

£1524. That would buy you a P38. That's what scares me about the L322.

holidaychicken · May 8, 2015

bitnix said:
So I took a trip to local Guy Salmon Land Rover dealership to ask to supply me the part. Long story short they only sell the whole assembly and they only wanted £1524+VAT so I just ordered it as I thought what the hell.

Haha, that was a genuine WTF moment then

Datatek · May 8, 2015

davidsmith1307 said:
£1524. That would buy you a P38. That's what scares me about the L322.

+1

bitnix · May 8, 2015

I just went to Guy Salmon in Bristol again to get my service history retrieved since I have stamps from Leicestershire LR but they can't retrieve any history for cars older than 2013. That is wasting my time for the second time today. :hurt:

holidaychicken · May 8, 2015

Believe me you have only just started having fun........

bitnix · May 8, 2015

And I thought I was seeing the light at the end of the tunnel...

Datatek · May 8, 2015

bitnix said:
And I thought I was seeing the light at the end of the tunnel...

There is no end to the tunnel or for that matter a light with the L322

holidaychicken · May 8, 2015

There is one light I would recommend...

Don't worry, you can always turn around half way through the tunnel and follow the trail of receipts back to sanity

davidsmith1307 · May 8, 2015

bitnix said:
And I thought I was seeing the light at the end of the tunnel...

The light is just the train rushing towards you...

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