i really dred to add up what mine has cost in my 2 years of ownership,2.5k for the box, sticking front brake caliper, engine ecu, pcv valve, new rocker cover gaskets, radiator, heater control valve, new fron suspension arms next week and various other bits lol
 
Do you do all work at the garage? Or just buy parts and fix it yourself? Just reading the previous posts it seems like RR is a heap of junk - not a masterpiece of the flawless British engineering.

I may just clean it up and sell it.

If not I will take your advice @RRkev and clean the cooling system and fit a bigger cooler.
 
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i do a lot myself, rocker gasket done by garage as with pcv valve, and i was quoted £45 labour to fit front suspension arms by an indie so getting them to do it at that price, otherwise would do it myself
 
Besides I know that BMW claim the oil is for life when clearly is not the case. I may just sue them on that basis get the new gearbox free LOL.

The oil is for life since oil doesn't brake haha.
 
i really dred to add up what mine has cost in my 2 years of ownership,2.5k for the box, sticking front brake caliper, engine ecu, pcv valve, new rocker cover gaskets, radiator, heater control valve, new fron suspension arms next week and various other bits lol

I think it's just part of ownership accepting that you will be parting with your reddies on a regular basis. If we knew then what we know now, I bet 99.9% of us would still buy the car???
 
Besides I know that BMW claim the oil is for life when clearly is not the case. I may just sue them on that basis get the new gearbox free LOL.

The oil is for life since oil doesn't brake haha.

When the garage dropped my old oil they said it looked a bit grimey so that doesn't sound like oil for life!!!!

At least the gearbox had oil in it unlike my front diff but that's another thread ....
 
My car won't see a piece of road that is not tarmac really and it isn't used on daily basis since we have more cars. Fingers crossed on the gearbox. What were the symptoms of the diff running dry? How did you notice?
 
I think it's just part of ownership accepting that you will be parting with your reddies on a regular basis. If we knew then what we know now, I bet 99.9% of us would still buy the car???
yes very true, everyday is just like a ticking timebomb waiting for the next issue to appear
 
What were the symptoms of the diff running dry? How did you notice?[/QUOTE]

All four wheels locking up and slamming me into the side of the Heysham bypass were the big clues lol:rolly:

When the garage went to drain the old one they said that a thumb nail drip of oil fell out hence why it welded itself shut.

Have a look at my thread "8/12/14 going great, going fantastic" but only do so when you have a few hours to spare, I do bang on a tad :rolleyes:
 
And I get that everything gets clogged up and oil gets some filings that break things. But that usually breaks one or two things and the rest of the box is fine. Gearboxes are not that expensive on eBay although the computer programming again will be challenging. I am not looking forward to the inconvenience although looking forward to the challenge.
 
You possibly paid a few bob for what on the surface looks a reasonable car. Enjoy it as it is. Doing anything to it as you propose is like sitting in front of a fire and throwing £50.00 notes onto it.
 
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So I'm back from US briefly and resumed work on the Range. Today new filter and oil. According to Autodata the engine takes 8.75L.

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While I was at it I also cleaned the bay to make it a nicer place to be:

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As per my malfunctioning mirrors I also found the cause. The cogs inside the casing are gone. Easy fix to put right again with a simple repair kit from eBay saving me a ton of money and preventing to be buying new pair.

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Here is the fix kit:

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While I am at it I will put a capless LED inside the mirror light to make it shine nice and bright when I open the car. And finally when I drive my mirrors won't flap about.

I also addressed the LED in the tailgate - no more dim, flashing or completely dead number plate lights. Result:

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Also plugged the computer to car to sniff around and cleaned my rubber mats and pedals:

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Cleaning mats using Autoglym Vinyl and Rubber Care Spray.

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More to come shortly.
 
As well as addressing the other issues I decided to look at the rear wiper. First it was a bit rusty and was making a horrible banging noise. Bending it back to shape helped.

Some pictures:

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First to diagnose the pump and it was okay. Next onto the boot and the line running the screenwash to the back.

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At this stage make sure you have some kind of bowl or container when you take the line off or when you're testing it. I used the cubby whole from the right part of the boot.

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Also make sure your one way valve works :)

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Unfortunately for me everything works from the front of the car to the back - fluid is flowing. It seems like the whole assembly is faulty and will need looking at or replacing. It has some screws on the housing so I will have a look inside when I have more time otherwise the replacement unit is about £100 which I am not quite sure is worth just having the read wiper fluid working.
 
I think Saint.V8 did a write up on stripping the motor assembly. Stupid idea running the water through the motor shaft, but then it's an LR product.
 
my rear wiper motor is tempremental at the best of times, i think this is down to fluid leaking into the motor, must look at it or spend £150 for a new motor
 
my rear wiper motor is tempremental at the best of times, i think this is down to fluid leaking into the motor, must look at it or spend £150 for a new motor
If it were mine, I'd remover the pipe from the motor and fit a separate washer jet.
 
The problem is usually a small o-ring which stops the water leaking into the motor. You'll probably find a load of gunge inside it. However it is usually repairable, simply needs a clean and a new o-ring. Google the repair, the o-rings are available on the bay.
 

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