resto_d1 said:
Brilliant dd. It’s funny, we have both been using same primers with no discussion on it. We clearly just got what was the best the local shop had. Mines been no nonsense and rustins. I think that no nonsense is actually pretty good! You brush on once then it goes bit tacky give another brush and it sticks so well. I’m onto the rustins now.
Europa, thank you - was weird after I asked about it I saw you post in the disco thread and thought he’s had same thoughts!! Cheers
Click to expand...

I have been on the No Nonsense primer since I found out how cheap it was and another boater here on the island has been using it in conjunction with the Hammerite and has nothing bad to say about it, far cheaper than the Bonda, don't get me wrong, the Bonda is good an all that but just too dear for me with the amount of it I am getting through. I like the Rustins for them days when I need to get the heat gun on it and dry it really fast for top coat application.

Hope I am done with painting for a while now, well apart from a few brackets and fixings I gotta make up when I get some steel bar in stock lol
 
Good to see you again. I bet Dottie slept well on the way back home. Don’t pinch too many of her choccies. ;)

9D4CF843-15B1-44DB-8464-386DF24ADD65.png


Good luck for the MoT.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Good to see you again. I bet Dottie slept well on the way back home. Don’t pinch too many of her choccies. ;)

View attachment 196822

Good luck for the MoT.
Click to expand...

MaccyDs an a McNugget happy meal forher to gnaw at on the way home an she dropped off rather rapidly :) I can't possibly eat her chocs, not cuz I don't want to but because I just can't get into the bally things lol :D

MOT didn't happen, tester was fully booked all morning and is insisting it has the full once over all over again and not happy to cast an eye over the fixed bits :rolleyes::oops: So booked up Friday morning for an 08:30 waiting appointment and see what occurs.

Be fine, I'm sure, just petrol to add to the tank prior to the blast around the island before I get there and it'll be grand.
 
The answer is blowing in the wind...

It is simple to blank off the oil cooler ports. Undo the two bolts in the end plate, withdraw the plate and remove the thermostat and spring. Refit the plate with a new 'O' ring (use the correct Land Rover part ERC5913 or you will have problems with oil leaks), and then blank off the oil cooler connections. On early type housings you will need two blanking plugs (part number RTC6851) and copper sealing washers 213961L. Later type housings have smaller ports threaded M20x1.5. If you have a hunt around on the Web you should be able to find a hydraulic or plumbing supplies company that can supply plugs this size.


That will get you an MoT’d vehicle until you can sort it proppa like
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
The answer is blowing in the wind...

It is simple to blank off the oil cooler ports. Undo the two bolts in the end plate, withdraw the plate and remove the thermostat and spring. Refit the plate with a new 'O' ring (use the correct Land Rover part ERC5913 or you will have problems with oil leaks), and then blank off the oil cooler connections. On early type housings you will need two blanking plugs (part number RTC6851) and copper sealing washers 213961L. Later type housings have smaller ports threaded M20x1.5. If you have a hunt around on the Web you should be able to find a hydraulic or plumbing supplies company that can supply plugs this size.


That will get you an MoT’d vehicle until you can sort it proppa like
Click to expand...

Easier!

Keith Gotts open tomorrow, I'm going to shoot to the garage at 8, tell them I can't make the 08:30 appointment but might be in later to drop it off and I'm taking the two fittings to Gotts to see if they got a later O-ring pipe to fit or a second hand housing to fit my original pipes.

Calmed down now, not much but enough to check out alternative solutions lol
 
@The Mad Hat Man dust off that tow rope, we're going green laning in the new year my good man!!!

IMG_20191227_154804.jpg


Some mission that was, popped in to the garage to cancel the 08:30 appointment and foot to the floor to Alton to Kieth Gott Land Rovers and got me a new oil cooler pipe that fits the thermostat housing, I had the feeling and asked if they had the converter unions for the radiator end as I was sure that they would be different and something else to trip me up.

Low and behold, correctamundo :oops:

Undone the 24mm union nut and with the oil pan under the chassis rail pulled it away.

IMG_20191227_114750.jpg


Oh look what I found.....

IMG_20191227_114738.jpg


Cue running around Portsmouth looking for a hydraulics place that was open to get something to sort this mess out.

Wound up with an imperial 1/2" compression fit coupler so that I could chop off the pipe fittings and use the old one on the new pipe. Got some spare olives too.

IMG_20191227_135824.jpg


IMG_20191227_142926.jpg


If you take these pipes off then make sure you put back the little pipe clamp that locks these pipes together, it's quite important and stops the pipes vibrating and breaking the cooler internally.

IMG_20191227_112921.jpg


All fitted up and snugged up on the O-rings.

IMG_20191227_142942.jpg


Leak free and off we went to the MOT.

Happy to say that we passed but he said it was touch and go for the emissions but passed none the less, a year of sitting around hasn't helped so after a good blast on the motorway it will be fine.

Was going to tax it but then I remembered that I only got 3 days of December left and would have had to pay from 1st December and it seems fool hardy to pay a whole month for the sake of 3 days.
 
Well done to you. DD
Good to see the mot in your hand and the hard work is paying off.
Now to keep it going......

Here’s a tip... still look unhappy as the good wife will find you work now you have (some)spare time away from welding
 
Hicap phill said:
Well done to you. DD
Good to see the mot in your hand and the hard work is paying off.
Now to keep it going......

Here’s a tip... still look unhappy as the good wife will find you work now you have (some)spare time away from welding
Click to expand...

Good lord, she has lined up a load more jobs on it that she wants done and to make matters worse, she has put a blooming time frame on them all too :eek::eek::eek:

Seats, carpets, interior trim and panels, interior lighting upgrades, stereo system upgrades, I mean for goodness sakes, I just want to be able to drive it now :rolleyes:
 
Been out with the bucket of love and soapy water, washed off all the green algae and made him cleaner than he was, proper hot soapy wash and wax at the garage when I tax it.

Been looking at the bracket drawings and the wiring diagram for the on board air, it's going to need sorted out very soon.
 
Hicap phill said:
Are You going to use push fit connections?
Click to expand...

Yes, they are all rated to 10BAR so should be fine, I think :oops:

I got a moisture trap and an ally receiver off an Audi Q5 that need to be fitted and housed, I thought I had it all sussed but keep changing my mind.

Was going to build the whole unit into the back of the boot next the filler neck, loads of different options but I am leaning towards the cylinder under the floor on the chassis rail somewhere.

I did see a load of compression fittings but they are all brass and quite expensive, prohibitively expensive!
 
I have dug out my spare relay fuse box and will be re-wiring the bumper indicators and extra reversing lamps as well as the compressor relay and power feed.

We might have passed the MOT but there is still a long list of things to do lol
 
Last edited:
Hicap phill said:
Are You going to use push fit connections?
Click to expand...

Yes, they are all rated to 10BAR so should be fine, I think :oops:

I got a moisture trap and an ally receiver off an Audi Q5 that need to be fitted and housed, I thought I had it all sussed but keep changing my mind.

Was going to build the whole unit into the back of the boot next the filler neck, loads of different options but I am leaning towards the cylinder under the floor on the chassis rail somewhere.

I did see a load of compression fittings but they are all brass and quite expensive, prohibitively expensive!
 
What did I fry?

IMG_20191229_145411.jpg


Tacho no worky so takes me a look, the white W terminal wire has burned through completely :eek:

Oh dear :(

That wire is looped to a spade terminal that goes to a little black box mounted to the alternator casing, no idea what it is an CBA to goggle it at mo as busy with interior lol :rolleyes:
 
Busy day, no change there then, but progress is picking up the pace.....

Off to the self storage lock up to fetch some goodies.

For the first time in at least 2 decades Rusty is going to get a set of back seats.

IMG_20191229_143723.jpg


Whilst I was out I grabbed a can of Wynns supercharge for engine oil treatments, with almost 350,000kms on the clock, every little helps, gave it a service last week and all fresh filters means it's good for at least another 3,000 miles lol I was always tol that oil is cheap compared with an engine rebuild.

IMG_20191229_154542.jpg


So the first seat in for a quick test fit.

IMG_20191229_165045.jpg


As with all things on the Rusty one, it never gives up the goodies easily and fitting the rear seats will be no exception.

Why? Well after 20+yrs of no back seats and the captive nuts open to the elements underneath the truck, it seems the threads in the M6 nuts have rotted away, I ran a tap through them and they cleaned out OK but as soon as I went to tighten the bolts they just stripped the threads out.

IMG_20191229_171818.jpg


Only one thing to do, drill it out to 1/4" imperial and then run an M8X1.25mm tap through it and create a whole new bigger thread, it's no real drama, they're really only for location and mounting, they're not structural at all.

IMG_20191229_171826.jpg


That'll be three more to go as I see no point in not doing them, it will be the same amount of time to just drill and tap the old captive nuts as it will to run the tap through and clean the old threads out only to find they need done anyways lol

Still a conundrum over that bit of burnt out W signal wire on the back of the alternator but I guess I will find out in time.
 
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