robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
They are gonna be a pain to weld up. Too much heat and the roof will warp. Will probably warp anyway but hey ho.
Welding is easy when you get the hang of it. Just takes practice.
Wheres the body lift ?
Its coming dont worry. I couldn't find a couple of the lift blocks or the new long bolts
But the body hasn't been bolted down properly yet so will just lift it back up with the engine crane.
Cheers
steve's P38 RR
Active Member
Another great disco build :clap2::clap2:
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
Only a small update for you as the weather was shocking this weekend, what happened to the sunshine eh?
Anyways you may have seen my other thread regarding my body lift gone wrong but did manage to get it done just gotta sort out the slight issue of the steering shaft being too short
The first picture is of the second version of my home made lift blocks (didnt like the first ones so binned em). They are made out of an old shaft from an old piece of machinery thats being scrapped at work. The next 2 pictures are what it looks like with the lift blocks installed.
The only other thing i did, well attempted to do was repair the rear quarters. But it decided to rain half way through repairing the o/s.
Did manage to get a bit further with the welding than the pics show but as it was raining had to rush to get all the tools away
Hopefully tomorrow afternoon will get the o/s finished as ive got the afternoon off
Anyways you may have seen my other thread regarding my body lift gone wrong but did manage to get it done
just gotta sort out the slight issue of the steering shaft being too short The first picture is of the second version of my home made lift blocks (didnt like the first ones so binned em). They are made out of an old shaft from an old piece of machinery thats being scrapped at work. The next 2 pictures are what it looks like with the lift blocks installed.
The only other thing i did, well attempted to do was repair the rear quarters. But it decided to rain half way through repairing the o/s.
Did manage to get a bit further with the welding than the pics show but as it was raining had to rush to get all the tools away
Hopefully tomorrow afternoon will get the o/s finished as ive got the afternoon off
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
Finally another update for you all.
I now have a new plan. It is to get her on the road by the time my insurance comes up for renewal in august. Main reason being i miss driving it so badly its driving me nuts seeing it sat on the drive all the time. so the next few months will be concentrating on getting her roadworthy again.
Doesn't mean all the big mods like megasquirt etc wont be happening though they will come once she is up and running again. Then the real fun can begin
Anyways as for what ive been up since the last update.
First up is ive now fitted a lt77 gearbox i bought off ebay the other day which was a complete pita to get back in. Also had to make up a little adapter plate for the diff lock linkages as they are slightly different to the R380 ones. Forgot pics of that though.
Another thing ive done i put the dash back in freshly painted black which makes the interior look so much nicer. Only things left to paint are the door cards and centre console and once ive made it the partition that will sit behind the front seats.
Another thing ive also started is making the rear winch tray that sits where the fuel tank was.
Yes its welded in. To get to it im gonna be making a hatch/door in the boot floor for cleaning or repair etc.
Then a random pic of underneath with the lt77 in place, the tdis axles all bolted up properly and newly polybushed, only thing i need to do to these axles are change discs, calipers and pads and the wheel bearings so they are good to go.
The axles that come of the v8 chassis will be rebuilt with ashcroft internals. And then fitted when finished.
And thats about it for now.
I now have a new plan. It is to get her on the road by the time my insurance comes up for renewal in august. Main reason being i miss driving it so badly its driving me nuts seeing it sat on the drive all the time.
so the next few months will be concentrating on getting her roadworthy again. Doesn't mean all the big mods like megasquirt etc wont be happening though they will come once she is up and running again. Then the real fun can begin
Anyways as for what ive been up since the last update.
First up is ive now fitted a lt77 gearbox i bought off ebay the other day which was a complete pita to get back in. Also had to make up a little adapter plate for the diff lock linkages as they are slightly different to the R380 ones. Forgot pics of that though.
Another thing ive done i put the dash back in freshly painted black which makes the interior look so much nicer. Only things left to paint are the door cards and centre console and once ive made it the partition that will sit behind the front seats.
Another thing ive also started is making the rear winch tray that sits where the fuel tank was.
Yes its welded in. To get to it im gonna be making a hatch/door in the boot floor for cleaning or repair etc.
Then a random pic of underneath with the lt77 in place, the tdis axles all bolted up properly and newly polybushed, only thing i need to do to these axles are change discs, calipers and pads and the wheel bearings so they are good to go.
The axles that come of the v8 chassis will be rebuilt with ashcroft internals. And then fitted when finished.
And thats about it for now.
Last edited:
bencorkill
Well-Known Member
That black dash does look nice, how do you think the paints gonna hold up with age?
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
It does look good don't it!
im not sure how its gonna hold up tbh, this is the stuff i used to paint itHalfords | Halfords Flexible Vinyl Paint Black
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
Ah now this i didn't know!
i have got a round tube kinda u shaped one somewhere in the garage that came off the v8 chassis originally. If needs be i will swap it out but i would like to fit hedman headers so will leave it be for now. Cheers for the heads up
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
No worries
I say you can use the tdi crossmember with hedmans but might be wrong, it also depends on the mounts and whether the tdi box mounts get in the way of v8 pipework, because a tdi crossmember sits a fair bit further back than v8 because iirc the tdi is used for box mounts whereas the v8 one is merely a chassis brace
Hedmans were designed for early range rover with low crossmember and up over exhausts then late vehicles had the U crossmember with under exhausts
Hence hedmans are slap bang where U shape crossmember sits
I made my own with some 60mm box section iirc
Cheers
I say you can use the tdi crossmember with hedmans but might be wrong, it also depends on the mounts and whether the tdi box mounts get in the way of v8 pipework, because a tdi crossmember sits a fair bit further back than v8 because iirc the tdi is used for box mounts whereas the v8 one is merely a chassis brace
Hedmans were designed for early range rover with low crossmember and up over exhausts then late vehicles had the U crossmember with under exhausts
Hence hedmans are slap bang where U shape crossmember sits
I made my own with some 60mm box section iirc
Cheers
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
I is finally got an update for you
Mostly what ive been doing lately is just sorting out little bits and pieces rather than anything major as funds are a bit tight atm
Anyways started with re-removing the rear axle (a pro at this job now only took half an hour) and set about stripping it down completely. Now im only reconditioning this axle as its a temporary one until i can afford to rebuild my other axles with ashcroft HD internals.
Firstly i removed the calipers and boy are they fecked!
Next set about stripping the rest of it. Half shafts out, followed by hubs, then the stub axles and finally the differential.
I left the radius arms on the whole time as it made steadying the axle when undoing bolts much easier.
Removing the hubs was a simple affair both nuts came undone, only seemed to be done up hand tight.
Heres a pic of the old discs on the hubs
Next job get old discs off the hubs and fit new ones. Unfortunately i dont have a vice at home so came up with the genius idea of sticking the hubs on my steel wheel to crack the nuts.
They came off pret easily quite Suprisingly as i thought they would be an ass to get off heres the new discs on.
I did have a bit of a problem with one of my stub axles. I managed to shear off one of the bolts. Luckily there was enough protruding to weld on a nut and undo it although that still took 3 attempts.
Once they were removed was a simple case of pullingthe diff out.
Checked the backlash and its within tolerances so will leave it as is and just clean it up.
Then gave the axle casing a very good wire brushing and a clean followed by a paint.
Then my box of goodies turnt up from island 4x4 so ready to start putting it back together
More to follow
Mostly what ive been doing lately is just sorting out little bits and pieces rather than anything major as funds are a bit tight atm
Anyways started with re-removing the rear axle (a pro at this job now only took half an hour
) and set about stripping it down completely. Now im only reconditioning this axle as its a temporary one until i can afford to rebuild my other axles with ashcroft HD internals. Firstly i removed the calipers and boy are they fecked!
Next set about stripping the rest of it. Half shafts out, followed by hubs, then the stub axles and finally the differential.
I left the radius arms on the whole time as it made steadying the axle when undoing bolts much easier.
Removing the hubs was a simple affair both nuts came undone, only seemed to be done up hand tight.
Heres a pic of the old discs on the hubs
Next job get old discs off the hubs and fit new ones. Unfortunately i dont have a vice at home so came up with the genius idea of sticking the hubs on my steel wheel to crack the nuts.
They came off pret easily quite Suprisingly as i thought they would be an ass to get off heres the new discs on.
I did have a bit of a problem with one of my stub axles. I managed to shear off one of the bolts. Luckily there was enough protruding to weld on a nut and undo it although that still took 3 attempts.
Once they were removed was a simple case of pullingthe diff out.
Checked the backlash and its within tolerances so will leave it as is and just clean it up.
Then gave the axle casing a very good wire brushing and a clean followed by a paint.
Then my box of goodies turnt up from island 4x4 so ready to start putting it back together
More to follow
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
Got a little bit more done this evening
Mainly cleaning up the a-frame and also the stub axles.
Few pics of the a-frame.
Tis easy getting the bushes out when you have access to a hydraulic press
Only thing im really struggling with is getting the bastid ball joint out of the fulcrum!
So far me and a couple of mates at work have tried clclamping it in a vice and whacking it with a suitable drift and a sledge hammer! That didnt work
So then tried heat. Went down to the other worshop and got the oxy/cetalene set on the go heated it up till it was really hot but not glowing them tried the sledge hammer trick again and still no movement! :violent:
Next we tried the hydraulic press and the fecker still wont budge!
We then got bored and chucked it in a bucket of wd40 to soak overnight will try again tomorrow.
Will also take the fulcrum/ball joint off the other rear axle to see if i can get that one out
The other job was the stub axles. Mainly just cleaning them up ready for painting.
And that's it for now hopefully tomorrow will get that PITA ball joint out also put the new bearings in the hubs, put new oil seals in and generally start reassembing again
Mainly cleaning up the a-frame and also the stub axles.
Few pics of the a-frame.
Tis easy getting the bushes out when you have access to a hydraulic press
Only thing im really struggling with is getting the bastid ball joint out of the fulcrum!
So far me and a couple of mates at work have tried clclamping it in a vice and whacking it with a suitable drift and a sledge hammer! That didnt work
So then tried heat. Went down to the other worshop and got the oxy/cetalene set on the go heated it up till it was really hot but not glowing them tried the sledge hammer trick again and still no movement! :violent:
Next we tried the hydraulic press and the fecker still wont budge!
We then got bored and chucked it in a bucket of wd40 to soak overnight will try again tomorrow.
Will also take the fulcrum/ball joint off the other rear axle to see if i can get that one out
The other job was the stub axles. Mainly just cleaning them up ready for painting.
And that's it for now hopefully tomorrow will get that PITA ball joint out also put the new bearings in the hubs, put new oil seals in and generally start reassembing again
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
The way to do the ball joint is:
remove the bolts, cut the ears off the ball joint plate (the bits where the bolts go)
then use a press from the rear side, resting the mount on some bar etc where you have cut the ears off.
a 12ton press struggles with this job sometimes
remove the bolts, cut the ears off the ball joint plate (the bits where the bolts go)
then use a press from the rear side, resting the mount on some bar etc where you have cut the ears off.
a 12ton press struggles with this job sometimes
discomark10
Well-Known Member
Buster has a writeup on this, duno if you saw?
nrgserv
Well-Known Member
i use a pair of sacrificial m8x50 bolts in the "ears"The way to do the ball joint is:
remove the bolts, cut the ears off the ball joint plate (the bits where the bolts go)
then use a press from the rear side, resting the mount on some bar etc where you have cut the ears off.
a 12ton press struggles with this job sometimes
screw them in full depth of thread, head will be an inch or so proud of ears.
carefully press on bolt heads (it will squash the external threads) till theres enough room to get your plate in. remove bolts and press out.
getting the new one back in can be interesting!
i use a lump of steam pipe that fits on the flange. ensure bolt holes are lined up prior to pressing!
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
The way to do the ball joint is:
remove the bolts, cut the ears off the ball joint plate (the bits where the bolts go)
then use a press from the rear side, resting the mount on some bar etc where you have cut the ears off.
a 12ton press struggles with this job sometimes
Tried that
even with the ears cut off. The press where i work is a 12 ton press and even hitting it with a big hammer to shock it whilst a full pressure the ball joint still wouldnt move!
Mark i tried it busters way to start with. Thats how the sledge hammer got involved
will try again later on at work now its had a good soak. And ive just taken the fulcrum off the other axle so hopefully one will come out!
bencorkill
Well-Known Member
You can get them online for about £30odd
