@Cavey_P38 ...we call it the secret juice here in the garage...
The 101 in my avatar is now nearly finished just overland interior to sort but were working on a 58 S2 a 68 Rover P6 and a BMW 635csi and the secret juice is pure magic...it was the tv show Repair Shop I first saw it used...Rob...
 
Cavey_P38 said:
cut the cable as suggested.
got it all together finger tight but keeps blowing fuses,had cleaned all tubes but believe the tube nearest to wiper motor is bent or pinched,

motor works fine with no cable but cable feels stiff to pull through and think it must be tube

tested fog light and reversing light they have power just need to clean bulb connections and fit bulbs
bolted radiator in.
Emptied all the back of rubbish left in it when i bought it, found a few spare bits and an old style cone shaped oil can.

Must be a bloody antique..will pop a picture up tomorrow
Click to expand...
We have to feck about a lot with this in kit cars.
Various things you can try.
Firstly Bundy tubing is or should be the same diameter, you can bell the ends quite easily to fit wheel boxes.
Secondly, if they are stiff you can put grinding paste on the cables, put one end in a drill and spin it up inside the offending tube making sure you use an old cable if you have one, move it back and forth a bit, clean the tube real good then try the new cable again.
all the best.
 
was
Stanleysteamer said:
We have to feck about a lot with this in kit cars.
Various things you can try.
Firstly Bundy tubing is or should be the same diameter, you can bell the ends quite easily to fit wheel boxes.
Secondly, if they are stiff you can put grinding paste on the cables, put one end in a drill and spin it up inside the offending tube making sure you use an old cable if you have one, move it back and forth a bit, clean the tube real good then try the new cable again.
all the best.
Click to expand...

Was a kink in the tube nearest to wiper motor. bought a new one and then cleaned all teh motor of old dried grease and stuff and she works great now..
 
So need some help please guys, bolts delivered, unfortunately wrong ones, so with time on my hands thought i would investigate the fuel tank gauge issue.

Vehicle has two tanks and looks like the pics in RAVE

However i have no idea which tank its running on dependant lever position.

Thought i could deal with it by taking sender out of side tank and manually moving it.
Gauge stays firmly at zero makes no difference on tap position.
I tried the meter at the electric part of tap but seem to have no power there.

Took off pipe from lift pump to filter and am fairly certain that was white diesel, have red in side tank white in back..now the 110 doesn't want to run very well, so clearly got ait in it somewhere so loathe to meddle with fuel system too much.

So where does the fuel gauge draw power from to work.?

How can i test the senders, is it possible i have duff gauge and two duff senders ?

Any advise on where to go next to get the gauge working..
Don't really want to tank dash out unless no other option as have only just got it back together
 
Cavey_P38 said:
So need some help please guys, bolts delivered, unfortunately wrong ones, so with time on my hands thought i would investigate the fuel tank gauge issue.

Vehicle has two tanks and looks like the pics in RAVE

However i have no idea which tank its running on dependant lever position.

Thought i could deal with it by taking sender out of side tank and manually moving it.
Gauge stays firmly at zero makes no difference on tap position.
I tried the meter at the electric part of tap but seem to have no power there.

Took off pipe from lift pump to filter and am fairly certain that was white diesel, have red in side tank white in back..now the 110 doesn't want to run very well, so clearly got ait in it somewhere so loathe to meddle with fuel system too much.

So where does the fuel gauge draw power from to work.?

How can i test the senders, is it possible i have duff gauge and two duff senders ?

Any advise on where to go next to get the gauge working..
Don't really want to tank dash out unless no other option as have only just got it back together
Click to expand...

Switch ignition on and ground wire from sender to chassis watch guage if it moves up to full guage working...
 
Shippers said:
Switch ignition on and ground wire from sender to chassis watch guage if it moves up to full guage working...
Click to expand...

Thanks mate

will give that a try tomorrow, will that still work with twin tanks and two senders, guess i just move the switch to try both positions ?
 
Cavey_P38 said:
Thanks mate

will give that a try tomorrow, will that still work with twin tanks and two senders, guess i just move the switch to try both positions ?
Click to expand...

Should do...and if you remove senders re-connect sender wire to guage back on to sender and ground sender you can raise float by hand and watch guage for movement to see if working through whole cycle from empty to full..
 
So have power at this switch on the back of the change over lever about 12v according to the multimeter

IMG_1219.JPEG


When i short these to chassis i get a click dashboard area but no movement on gauge, it has some kind of plunger push buttom thing behind where teh wires plug into the change over switch and i can get that to cause the click also

if i short the wires from side tank sender to chassis i get the same click but no movement on gauge

IMG_1229.JPEG


My two bolts arrived for the A frame, bolted that together, gacve it a run up the farm road seemsa bit flat and wont rev very well and smokes if throttle held down..

Found this
IMG_1213.JPEG


which is the small pipe from FIP to turbo, believe this is the advance and should open the pump when the turbo is spinning, could this be the cause, hopefully will be cheap so best place to start..

in addition when vehicle sits in the yard it seems down on drivers front corner

Got it on the ramp

and
Passenger side
IMG_1216.JPEG


Drivers side
IMG_1218.JPEG


Passenger side i can get 4 fingers between bump stop and axle, on drivers side i can only get 3 fingers.

So is this weak spring, mismatch spring strengths or is the landy bent and down on that corner, chassis looks good but drivers door gap is different to passenger side and it doesn't run straight with the swadge line down the side, could this be a poorly fitted door or bulkhead poorly aligned ??

Should have taken some pics but chucked back on ramp in disgust and now there is a JD7930 with it axle being dismantled boxing me in..

Also how will i know springs are on it, has it been lifted etc. and are they standard or heavy duty?
 

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No Paint on the spring but drivers side looks suspiciously Yellow....

Passenger side might be black with yellow but couldn't be certain.

Thinking it might have heavy duty rear springs as previous owner towed a lot, can i run hd on rear and standard front ?
 
Cavey_P38 said:
No Paint on the spring but drivers side looks suspiciously Yellow....

Passenger side might be black with yellow but couldn't be certain.

Thinking it might have heavy duty rear springs as previous owner towed a lot, can i run hd on rear and standard front ?
Click to expand...
I’m sure you can
Find a spring chart then colours may be on there.
That 1 spring looked like it has collapsed
 
Funny my mate has been under his that came as part of the deal and his are different to mine and he thinks collapsed as well

Two new springs and some shock absorbers first step i think and an advance pipe for the FIP / turbo
 
Best give the turret bolts the good news with a wire brush and some dismantling fluid now, you might be lucky and they might loosen if you give them enough time.
Otherwise they will tear out of the turret ring and that will be more delay, I have been lucky in the past but many others haven't.
 
So measured the floor to centre of wheel arch today

drivers side front 82cm
passenger front 88.5 cm
drivers rear 92cm
Passenger rear 93cm

Vehicle is on 265 x 75 x16 tyres

Clearly well down on drivers side, concerened it may have heavy duty springs on it and i have ordered standards,

anybody out there got a 110 on 265 x75 x 16 would appreciate knowing your measurements floor to centre of plastic arch and if you are on standard or heavy duty

Many Thanks
 
Standard springs are fine,will be more comfy. Normally the drivers side will be a bit higher to allow for the driver.
Most kits now come with non handed fronts
 
That is why i went standard, have only ordered fronts springs and shockers

but am worried the backs are HD which i would keep for towing etc. however it might look stupid if the front is much different than it is now.

Will wait and see hopefully order might be here tomorrow
 
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