The only problem is that the car is parked under a carport next to my garage and I cannot open the right door to get the doorcard off.
Yeah I,m sure that would not be a problem, but I need the space for my other car and my wife’s car.You have a shoulder and 2 legs?
Take it out of park and release the handbrake and put some muscle into it.
J
After some swearing and cursing I got the doorcard of.. changed over the outstation.
No tada moment as of yet same problem.
I measured on the connector on the outstation that goes to the latch CDL switch and I measure 3,6vdc or zero if you move the latch. Not sure if these are normal values?
Also mirror and windows seem to work normally as well.
I'm going to call it a day, I'll crawl in the footwell tomorrow
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Ok today I connected the nanocom again to see if the input menu for the doorlocks on the becm works and it does. No diagnostic mode on the dash but it allows me to check the status of the locks on all 4 doors.
I found the same behaviour on all 4 doors, when opening from the inside the becm recognised door ajar, the CDL sill switch and keyswitch.
I lowered the driver’s window and inserted the key in the doorlock to allow me to turn it when sitting in the car. At rest it reads 12vdc, when turning it goes to ground and back to 12vdc and the left central door locking status goes from 12v to ground and remains there until I lock it again.
I’ll try to video it and post it here.
I found the same behaviour on all 4 doors, when opening from the inside the becm recognised door ajar, the CDL sill switch and keyswitch.
I lowered the driver’s window and inserted the key in the doorlock to allow me to turn it when sitting in the car. At rest it reads 12vdc, when turning it goes to ground and back to 12vdc and the left central door locking status goes from 12v to ground and remains there until I lock it again.
I’ll try to video it and post it here.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
A car only as one right hand side.Front of the car facing it or sitting in the car?
J
You are trying to connect to the becm with the ignition off
Yes you should put the ignition to off for comms with becm. It doesn’t work with ignition on.You are trying to connect to the becm with the ignition off
That video appears to show the latch working correctly, but it's not clear at which point you're turning the key to lock & unlock.
When turning the key to unlock position, the keyswitch should momentarily go to 0V / ground, and CDL goes to 0V. When turning to lock position, again the keyswitch momentarily goes to 0V, but CDL should now switch to 0V. When using the sill button, obviously the keyswitch does nothing. CDL should simply show 12V when locked & 0V when unlocked.
I say again, the combination is how the BECM knows you're entering the EKA, i.e. the initial 4-turns to Unlock signal the BECM to expect EKA.
Get the EKA working first, and you should then get past the "engine disabled" state. Then to start the car, you need the security code to match in EDC & BECM.
In case you don't have it to hand, here's the EKA process for Left-Hand Drive cars. Ignore where it says "clockwise", and use the terms LOCK & UNLOCK, because RAVE has typo errors.
When turning the key to unlock position, the keyswitch should momentarily go to 0V / ground, and CDL goes to 0V. When turning to lock position, again the keyswitch momentarily goes to 0V, but CDL should now switch to 0V. When using the sill button, obviously the keyswitch does nothing. CDL should simply show 12V when locked & 0V when unlocked.
I say again, the combination is how the BECM knows you're entering the EKA, i.e. the initial 4-turns to Unlock signal the BECM to expect EKA.
Get the EKA working first, and you should then get past the "engine disabled" state. Then to start the car, you need the security code to match in EDC & BECM.
In case you don't have it to hand, here's the EKA process for Left-Hand Drive cars. Ignore where it says "clockwise", and use the terms LOCK & UNLOCK, because RAVE has typo errors.
Yes I did a voice over and it is not particularly clear at which point I do what but if I look at what you wrote down above I can confirm that’s accurate.
I hear you it would make perfect sense to start with the EKA code input, the EkA procedure I have never used, basically because it has been disabled since the beginning I owned the car so I don’t have the code available to me. Also the car has been left without a battery for a long time and never required to input the EKA.
What you are saying as far as I know is certainly correct but the car doesn’t ask for the EKA code. Instead it is asking to press the keyfob. That obviously doesn’t work no matter what I do. It refuses to sync the key using the doorlock.
Maybe I should start with the obvious and change the receiver? I still have the blue dot one.
And also thanks for everyone here who’s helping me wrestle through this problem so far, it is much appreciated.
