^^^^^^^^^^^ READ THIS CAREFULLY ^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^^^^^^^^^ READ THIS CAREFULLY ^^^^^^^^^^^
That’s probably what happened. So I guess I first need to figure out how to get the fob to work again. Because clearly it doesn’t work with the key.
I was thinking, what am I not getting here
I’v send a mail to les Edward’s, today explaining my situation.
The answer was brief: becm problem.
Any suggestions here where to send it of for repair with a reputable service?
I’v send a mail to les Edward’s, today explaining my situation.
The answer was brief: becm problem.
Any suggestions here where to send it of for repair with a reputable service?
I'd get the key/s sorted first before writing the becm off.
You need a functioning key either way and then go from there
You need a functioning key either way and then go from there
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
I don’t think that’s funny must be my sense of humorNot to nanocom Willy nilly
Everything from post #2 onwards
Avoiding the issue is not the same as resolving it.
It’s your call.
glad that we have that out of the way, what’s your contribution?Not to nanocom Willy nilly
Everything from post #2 onwards
Avoiding the issue is not the same as resolving it.
It’s your call.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
All to easy to blame the BECM, in reality unless it has got condensation inside, it is rarely the problem but there is always someone willing to take money for supposedly fixing it. If you really want to spend money having it checked, @Rick-the-Pick in Brighton is the only place I would trust.I was thinking, what am I not getting here
I’v send a mail to les Edward’s, today explaining my situation.
The answer was brief: becm problem.
Any suggestions here where to send it of for repair with a reputable service?
I’m learning on the go here I don’t pretend to know anything about these cars. I never worked on cars before let alone car electronics. I am more mechanical inclined.
But from what I read, when the becm is in alarm lockout it won’t unlock on the central locking.
Working windows and mirrors on both front doors confirm there isn’t a problem with comms between the becm and the door outstations or centre console switchpack because they communicate on a serial link to/ from becm.
The only reason I asked les Edward’s is because I have their loom which is supposed to resolve this fault and actually doesn’t work.
I also read and it was also said before that the diagnostic plug could have something to do with it. There is supposed to be an article about it which allows to do some measurements.
I did manage to get access to the connections in the right foot well, no sign of water ingress but I still need to check for continuity between both ends.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Take the seat out, take the lid off the BECM and check for condensation. With the seat out, you can check all connectors. There is no indication from what you say that the BECM is locked out but of course I could be wrong. You need to look very carefully for traces of white or green corrosion between pins in the footwell connectors, the BECM connectors and the front and back of the OBD connector.
I would say again, but "quoting" myself is easier.
If you send off the BECM (to the UK) and they say its fine, what do you do next? (apart from the cost and customs of sending it)
Do you have your EKA code? Dont use it just asking do you have it?
Have you tried syncing using the door key turn and push coresponding buttons. If you have a door lock that is doing what it should.
I would also agree with this. you havent even got to the stage of the dash message "Keycode lockout enter EKA".
J
What you are saying is not wrong but I have this car since 2 years. And I know the state of things.
The entire engine compartment is almost new or revised. The dash came out and I checked the obd port there and then. I did it again today. It is in tip top shape. This car is not heavily corroded or wet in the footwells. The cables look like new and no obvious signs of damage. Even the connections on the becm pins look shiny bright. No green oxidation visible.
I understand that from a certain point of view if you have to deal with the same problems over and over again a lot of the time it comes down the same thing, bad connections due to oxidation. I’m telling you that’s not it.
None of it makes sense. if you read about the becm you’ll notice you cannot access it to make changes if it is in lockout mode. It is “normal” not being able to go into diagnostics mode at this stage this has nothing to do with the obd port.
I can acces the egine Ecu for instance to look at ems code with the key in position 2.
Every once and a while in the past I had jumping locks so I knew they needed work. therefore it looked obvious to me to start with the door latch.
The becm is preventing to use the CDL motors until the lockout is cleared.
Also today I installed another 2nd hand rf receiver. For the same reason as you I wanted to know if the becm info could be trusted for the rf information.
It didn’t make any difference, the becm is still saying after a reset it has received a valid code yet asks for it when trying to start.
I’ve been reading up on several methods to get the keys synchronised all fail.
The last time I wanted to open the car I oiled the key barrel because the key was difficult to pull out. I oiled the key blade but a ittle to much oil came out and it made me slip my fingers down so I accidentally pushed on the keyfob while closing or opening for that matters. It is at that point it all started. Moments Before oiling the CDL still worked fine after that it was finished. Yet oil in a mechanical lock doesn’t affect electronics last time I checked.
It drives me bunkers. The EkA lockout is a different thing altogether, that would only happen if it was indeed enabled which it’s not. It has never asked for a keycode.
Sorry I’m a bit frustrated no pun intended.
Ok I will go through this to the best of my knowledge.
Right so we have good connections.
You are not in lockout mode yet, your car is alarmed and thinks its getting nicked.
Yep and it often doesnt make sense
fob?
Yes I understand the EKA code required. that is still not the end of the world, and you are not there yet.
I totally understand your frustration, but slow down a bit.
A Nanocom will not communicate if the car is in alarmed/lockout state, (this is a debatable subject as I dont have a Nanocom, and seperate from this thread so dont claim to know).
But if you cant see coms with it you cant do anything with it.
Your car sees it open, its just disabled for starting cos it thinks its getting nicked.
Do you have 2 fobs?
J
Right so we have good connections.
You are not in lockout mode yet, your car is alarmed and thinks its getting nicked.
Yep and it often doesnt make sense
fob?
Yes I understand the EKA code required. that is still not the end of the world, and you are not there yet.
I totally understand your frustration, but slow down a bit.
A Nanocom will not communicate if the car is in alarmed/lockout state, (this is a debatable subject as I dont have a Nanocom, and seperate from this thread so dont claim to know).
But if you cant see coms with it you cant do anything with it.
Your car sees it open, its just disabled for starting cos it thinks its getting nicked.
Do you have 2 fobs?
J
Just to add to what @marjon says.
You are not yet locked out you can get into the car physically, but it might think it is being stolen.
I have been in the situation where I just could NOT get the car to respond to the fob and I could not get rid of "engine disabled" from the message centre in the console every time I tried with the key.
What worked for me was that I used my Nanocom to clear the RF memory (the buffer of rolling codes). Then the car responded to the keyfob and the key and car were back in sync and it started straight away.
I am not saying this is what your problem is (I don't know, and have not read all of these pages) but I know my heart was in my mouth when it happened to me and I had visions of never getting the car to start again.
I hope you get yours sorted mate.
You are not yet locked out you can get into the car physically, but it might think it is being stolen.
I have been in the situation where I just could NOT get the car to respond to the fob and I could not get rid of "engine disabled" from the message centre in the console every time I tried with the key.
What worked for me was that I used my Nanocom to clear the RF memory (the buffer of rolling codes). Then the car responded to the keyfob and the key and car were back in sync and it started straight away.
I am not saying this is what your problem is (I don't know, and have not read all of these pages) but I know my heart was in my mouth when it happened to me and I had visions of never getting the car to start again.
I hope you get yours sorted mate.
I verified also continuity between the rf receiver and the becm. Everything is ok.Ok I will go through this to the best of my knowledge.
Right so we have good connections.
You are not in lockout mode yet, your car is alarmed and thinks its getting nicked.
Yep and it often doesnt make sense
fob?
Yes I understand the EKA code required. that is still not the end of the world, and you are not there yet.
I totally understand your frustration, but slow down a bit.
A Nanocom will not communicate if the car is in alarmed/lockout state, (this is a debatable subject as I dont have a Nanocom, and seperate from this thread so dont claim to know).
But if you cant see coms with it you cant do anything with it.
Your car sees it open, its just disabled for starting cos it thinks its getting nicked.
Do you have 2 fobs?
J
I do have 2 fobs but i get the same response, nothing
I also cleared the rf memory thinking it would work after that.
I guess my patience will be tested.
