RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Eye did type it but had a moment of realisation before hitting reply 
RovyCouple
Active Member
Sorry WAMMERS, yes I must have mixed them up, but my point I hope still stands, when 2.5 dse engine is hot it should not need a 'trick' however well thought out by forum gurus (who I appreciate by the way). The glow plug light should not come on! Also since buying a good battery no problem starting when hot ( as mentioned elsewhere on the forum), weak batterie's just don't do it. Do you agree? that glow plug light should not come on please ; except when cold? Its important because so far my glow plug comes on even when hot and I can't so far find out why, a gremlin perhaps or a hidden 'trick' from a previous owner, !!??
Then you either have a hot start fitted or a totally duff green sensor.
RovyCouple
Active Member
I've just replaced the green sensor , water pump, stat, belts, rad, amongst loads of other things. Cant find the bloody hot start. Since also changing for a more powerful battery starting is not a problem. even driving slowely and carefully cant get the consumption down, can only think its a hot start not switching itself off. Need suggestions as to how to find it.
Have a look in engine ecu box thats the normal place to hide it.
My son's was piggy backed onto the engine ecu box behind the battery.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
I showed you this in the link I gave you. Could it be internal (remap) ?
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Hotstart is usually spliced to the grey wires feeding the ecu, with a 30sec timer. Maybe timer has died?
It’s in the edc ecu box behind the battery
It’s in the edc ecu box behind the battery
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I've just removed my hot start and it was wired into the white/ light blue. 1998MY
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Yes this for early models was changeover date (1998 I believe?)
Later models don’t need one.
Wammers will know.
Later models don’t need one.
Wammers will know.
Need for hot start was supposedly negated in 1999 and on models when lift pump with cranking was introduced.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
He also knows how to adapt the earlier ones but it’s complicated for the likes of us and you’ll need to talk to him real nicely
OP - I have LR main dealer receipts for the fitting of my hotstart.
OP - I have LR main dealer receipts for the fitting of my hotstart.
Elliott had one on his on 2000my.
The pump was at 86% modulation
That's getting uncomfortably high!
Morning grrrrr-rr,
The previous owner stated "it's normal I just bash the accelerator pedal until it starts" after I adjusted the pump and replaced the battery for a mf31-1000, it starts like it should... The guy was an idiot
Morning grrrrr-rr,
The previous owner stated "it's normal I just bash the accelerator pedal until it starts" after I adjusted the pump and replaced the battery for a mf31-1000, it starts like it should... The guy was an idiot
I believe part of the problem (in earlier cars at least) was a rather optmistic minimum engine speed for the hot engine. A weak battery, old starter and wiring and it a bit borderline. Add a retarded point of injection from chain stretch and it pushes it over the edge. I think they changed that mapping slightly on later models, possibly more than once (97 and 99?) from what Dopey's BMW mate said.
Running the lift pump and sticking the glow-plugs on all help it catch. Didn't they remove the NRV from the lift pump on later models?
I seem to recall Datatek saying even the 99 still suffered.
Good question about the nrv, I've no idea. What works for me, is if the engine is hot and has been sat for more than 15min, I'll turn the ignition key and wait for a second or two and then start it. It fires up straight away.
