I assume that's from experienceCheck the condition if the wiring and connector on number4 injector.love the Handle by the way,the only animal you can get a tasty casserole, a nice jumper and a good sh*g.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
And was built in Wales, don't know why that didn't post hours ago.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Of course,they're a bugger to catch in a muddy field wearing wellies.I assume that's from experience
The Sheep Worrier
Member
I had a little look (in the dark might I add lol ) , indeed I found the injector that has a wire attached, 2nd one back from the bonnet back towards the windscreen ?!
Didn't notice anything bad i.e exposed wiring or similar , are we thinking to try new sensor and/or injector?
Hoping to have time to run It to my mate tomorrow to confirm the diagnosis as he's more learn-ed than me lol but I've no doubt Wammers is bang on by the sounds of it
Thankyou all again
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
If the injector with the wire on is second one from bonnet you have a problem it should be forth back from bonnet last one to fire in use.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Cylinders are numbered 1-6.
1 being front (bonnet/timing chain end), 6 being bulkhead/windscreen end.
Inj4 is the one with the sensor/wiring plugged into the box below.
Inj6 has a blank at the back on one of the spill connections.
Injectors 1 2 3 5 6 are identical.
No4 is expensive. Wiring can possibly be fixed but sensor cannot.
Green EDC sensor is below cylinder 3/4 and should be plugged into loom
If you zoom in you can see here (old pic)
The green in the pic at the front (2-3) is a green connector not the sensor! It’s the one further back
(Middle of the 3 if you have EGR or a late head)
1 being front (bonnet/timing chain end), 6 being bulkhead/windscreen end.
Inj4 is the one with the sensor/wiring plugged into the box below.
Inj6 has a blank at the back on one of the spill connections.
Injectors 1 2 3 5 6 are identical.
No4 is expensive. Wiring can possibly be fixed but sensor cannot.
Green EDC sensor is below cylinder 3/4 and should be plugged into loom
If you zoom in you can see here (old pic)
The green in the pic at the front (2-3) is a green connector not the sensor! It’s the one further back
(Middle of the 3 if you have EGR or a late head)
Last edited:
The Sheep Worrier
Member
afternoon all, an update!!
So I called with Karl this morning on the 'off chance' he had a little time to spare me. He didn't really, but fair play he dropped what he was doing and had a nosey for me.
Plugged the Hawkeye in, no injector related fault, however the 'engine off solenoid' flagged up strangely.
I'd mentioned of Wammers and other's advice regarding injector 4, got some access and did indeed find that one wire had a slight breach in it. stripped back, remade, soldered and covered up. Fired her back up , unfortunately the same light was on.
We continued to search and scratch heads, checking and testing this that and the other. The decision was made to remove the solenoid valve which is attached to the FIP. What a pig it was to remove. A 24mm spanner was slightly slack, a 23mm too tight.Tried several 24mm's but no avail. No room to get a socket over it. One of the other mechanics who works for him had taken some tools out to a call out so he didn't have any old imperial ones to try. The bloody thing was in there tight.
A bit of swearing, gentle persuasion and persistence got it out, with some additional help from a hammer and cold chisel.
And there was the problem. A load of swarf/filings on the end of the valve and in the port/housing. The end of the valve was pretty mashed. We think what was happening was with the bus starting cold, the valve was nice and loose(ish) and not affecting anything running wise. When motor had been running up to temp, turned off and back on, it was sticking from start up due to heat/expansion and therefore flagging up the light and fault.
We also think a contributing factor was that it looks like a previous owner had replaced the FIP with a reconditioned unit, put old valve in, and some filings from the rebuild process had got into the valve.
Fortunately , he had an old p38 donor vehicle he'd been robbing bits and bobs off of. We removed the one out of that (which come out very easily in comparison to my bus) . Cleaned all the filings etc. from the valve housing and fitted it in. Put everything back together , cleared fault codes etc.
Started took for a spin to the burger van (we were both very hungry and thirsty ) , left it running and returned to the garage. Started , stopped etc etc ran all sorts of scenarios , no fault codes back with the Hawkeye plugged in.
She running well, now idling just under 1k revs which Karl says is right, it was idling a bit higher originally, we think the repair on the injector wire has cured it.
So, all in all a few hours lost for him and I, we got to the bottom of it and as far as I can see, she's right as rain.
Unfortunately I was too busy/oily to take any pics, calling in tomorrow to drop some money in so if the faulty valve hasn't been binned I'll take a pic for anyone else who might in the future search on here for a similar problem and have a photo reference.
Thanks everyone again for your welcome and great advice, much appreciated.
Now just to sort out the heater blower, diagnostics are pointing to the temp sensor on the blower , so I'll order one of them and then just a couple of bulbs to replace and that'll be her ( I hope ).
So I called with Karl this morning on the 'off chance' he had a little time to spare me. He didn't really, but fair play he dropped what he was doing and had a nosey for me.
Plugged the Hawkeye in, no injector related fault, however the 'engine off solenoid' flagged up strangely.
I'd mentioned of Wammers and other's advice regarding injector 4, got some access and did indeed find that one wire had a slight breach in it. stripped back, remade, soldered and covered up. Fired her back up , unfortunately the same light was on.
We continued to search and scratch heads, checking and testing this that and the other. The decision was made to remove the solenoid valve which is attached to the FIP. What a pig it was to remove. A 24mm spanner was slightly slack, a 23mm too tight.Tried several 24mm's but no avail. No room to get a socket over it. One of the other mechanics who works for him had taken some tools out to a call out so he didn't have any old imperial ones to try. The bloody thing was in there tight.
A bit of swearing, gentle persuasion and persistence got it out, with some additional help from a hammer and cold chisel.
And there was the problem. A load of swarf/filings on the end of the valve and in the port/housing. The end of the valve was pretty mashed. We think what was happening was with the bus starting cold, the valve was nice and loose(ish) and not affecting anything running wise. When motor had been running up to temp, turned off and back on, it was sticking from start up due to heat/expansion and therefore flagging up the light and fault.
We also think a contributing factor was that it looks like a previous owner had replaced the FIP with a reconditioned unit, put old valve in, and some filings from the rebuild process had got into the valve.
Fortunately , he had an old p38 donor vehicle he'd been robbing bits and bobs off of. We removed the one out of that (which come out very easily in comparison to my bus) . Cleaned all the filings etc. from the valve housing and fitted it in. Put everything back together , cleared fault codes etc.
Started took for a spin to the burger van (we were both very hungry and thirsty ) , left it running and returned to the garage. Started , stopped etc etc ran all sorts of scenarios , no fault codes back with the Hawkeye plugged in.
She running well, now idling just under 1k revs which Karl says is right, it was idling a bit higher originally, we think the repair on the injector wire has cured it.
So, all in all a few hours lost for him and I, we got to the bottom of it and as far as I can see, she's right as rain.
Unfortunately I was too busy/oily to take any pics, calling in tomorrow to drop some money in so if the faulty valve hasn't been binned I'll take a pic for anyone else who might in the future search on here for a similar problem and have a photo reference.
Thanks everyone again for your welcome and great advice, much appreciated.
Now just to sort out the heater blower, diagnostics are pointing to the temp sensor on the blower , so I'll order one of them and then just a couple of bulbs to replace and that'll be her ( I hope ).
DarthDude
Well-Known Member
The Sheep Worrier
Member
,/.n.
Awww fanx
You were right too (you knew you were anyway lol) about the 4th injector, it is where you said, I was having a Blonde moment and didn't count logically
Awww fanx
You were right too (you knew you were anyway lol) about the 4th injector, it is where you said, I was having a Blonde moment and didn't count logically
DarthDude
Well-Known Member
Oh you're welcome but it wasn't me who pointed you to the injectors- it was @wammers
I just said to poke a diagnostic in there. Kind of like the doctor who says you should cut cigarettes and sugar.
Anyhoo- you're up and running now.... for now.... so enjoy it while it lasts.
Which it won't.
P38s are like the House Of Stark.... or a British Summer. Winter is ALWAYS coming.
The Sheep Worrier
Member
Oh you're welcome but it wasn't me who pointed you to the injectors- it was @wammers
I just said to poke a diagnostic in there. Kind of like the doctor who says you should cut cigarettes and sugar.
Anyhoo- you're up and running now.... for now.... so enjoy it while it lasts.
Which it won't.
P38s are like the House Of Stark.... or a British Summer. Winter is ALWAYS coming.
Your'e right , it was Wammers and another gent above !!
I loves my fags, sugar and alcohol, please don't you start telling me too swell . Thanks for your input all the same .
Oh I so hope you're wrong regarding reliability, I'm starting to get sentimental over the RR and iv'e only had it a few days
DarthDude
Well-Known Member
Well... when I first floated the idea of buying a Rangie, my buddies- none of whom every owned one- were aghast.
"The reliability!", they said.
"You'll break down all over the country!". they said.
To which I replied, "What the hell do you lot know? I've played with Peugeots, turbocharged Mitsubishis, Alfas and hydropneumatic Citroëns. How much worse can it possibly be?"
And suddenly it was. Much, much, much worse. The nadir found me with a hard-faulted EAS ECU at 3am on the highway midway between Penang (where I'd been visiting my folks) and Kuala Lumpur (where I live) with an exhausted, irate wife and 6 live chickens.... oh.. and 3 schrader valves.
Yessir..... enjoy your time with your P38 for Winter is Coming.
You'll need at a minimum:-
1) a decent diagnostic tool- it MUST cover at least the EAS and HEVAC systems. You can use a garage's (like you did now) for the other stuff because they don't give trouble all that often;
2) a set of metric and another set of imperial allen keys (EAS compressor takes a 1/8" allen key to remove the piston and counterweight off the motor shaft) and torx wrenches;
3) I forget the size exactly but I THINK it's a 24 (or was it 28? Anybody?) socket for the wheels, especially if your wheel bolts have those caps on them. Leave this in the spare tyre well.
4) a mechanic buddy (looks like you already have one) and a forum like this.
But yeah... once the bug bites, you'll love your P38 anyways. Kind of like being hopelessly in love with some stormy, tempremental diva.Good luck!
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
DarthDude
Well-Known Member
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
There are two heater blower motors each side by the pillars there is resistor thing that can blow stopping the blowers.
well done on getting the engine sorted
well done on getting the engine sorted
The Sheep Worrier
Member
I can only report on what was found and what resolved the issue. The repair on the wire to injector 4 didn't shut off the lamp, replacing the valve did and dare I say it through the various tests we did has cured it .
The Sheep Worrier
Member
Grief, that does sound like a 'labour of love'.
Thanks for the pointers .
I'm quite realistic and appreciate it is now 21 years old so understand things might not always be plain sailing. Whether i'll keep it long term or not I'm not sure atm, we'll see how it goes. It won't have mega mileage on it if I keep it or not anyway. Currently sitting on 126k miles, which appear to be genuine as it matches to the general wear and tear , it's not 'tired' by any means and my mechanic commented on how clean underneath it was an in general. I should imagine it's been garaged the majority of its life.
From 2006 onwards, only doing between 2.5 and 4k miles a year.
Time will tell
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Perhaps a look at the wiring loom would be worth a look at, there may be a broken wire or a dodgy connector you've disturbed whilst doing the fuel cut off valve and the number 4 injector.
