Took her for a long run today and the engine was fine - apart from on the way back when the orange engine fault light flashed on and off, twice in the space of five seconds, as we were going along at around 2000RPM. There didn't seem to be any change, but I wonder why that should have happened. The last time that light came on was when it broke down because the timing was out because the chain had stretched - that was what I had hoped I had cured.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Need to see what fault if any has been logged. A flick of the MIL lamp as the revs drop when lifting off seems to be a common problem, it happens on one of mine but only when the engine is cold. The fault recorded is "Fuel flow out of range" The car runs and performs as it should.
Mine does this in winter also.
Sticky or worn pump
Sticky or worn pump
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
mine does it and occasionally when cold and it does it it will actually stall if clutch down its an odd feeling as suddenly no power then it comes back.
Thanks for that. When the light flashed the engine did not misfire - there seemed to be no change in the engine. Also I did check the fault log and found Needle Lift Sensor Invalid, but this was the problem before I adjusted the position of the FIP and I can't remember whether I cleared it then. Do the fault stay logged when the battery has been removed for a couple of months? Anyway, I shall have to go out again and see what happens.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The faults stay until cleared.
Update: another run out and no faults in the engine. Phew... now I can move on to the leaking front hub seal...
Leaking front hub seal?
Axles casing seal maybe?
If your going in there, check the upper and lower ball joints for play and if found your going to need a clamp press!!!
Absolutely do not move the bottom collar just above the bottom ball joint nut as this aligns the hub vertically with the axle casing.
Watch the upper ball joint center doesn't drop out when the lower ball joint let's go.
That sounds like a worn FIP. Can also be exacerbated by in-tank pump failing.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
In tank pump has been changed.
The fip on mine will flash in letting off the throttle with a cold engine and cold outside temps.
Sometimes it doesn't respond to the pedal (very rarely) a quick stamp on the throttle pedal brings it back into play
On first start up, if the engine speed is raised to 2000rpm and the pedal let off sometimes it'll almost stall.... After 254.000mls she's certainly not new any more
Sometimes it doesn't respond to the pedal (very rarely) a quick stamp on the throttle pedal brings it back into play
On first start up, if the engine speed is raised to 2000rpm and the pedal let off sometimes it'll almost stall.... After 254.000mls she's certainly not new any more
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Pretty much like mine except it never attempts to stall.The fip on mine will flash in letting off the throttle with a cold engine and cold outside temps.
Sometimes it doesn't respond to the pedal (very rarely) a quick stamp on the throttle pedal brings it back into play
On first start up, if the engine speed is raised to 2000rpm and the pedal let off sometimes it'll almost stall.... After 254.000mls she's certainly not new any more
Well, it was going so well... but today after a trouble-free half hour run out, and a couple of hours to rest before we headed home, the same fault reappeared on start up. The engine check light came on, we managed fifty yards and the engine misfired and then cut out. We made half a dozen short trips like this. The Nanocom showed the fault as 'Needle lift sensor invalid value'.
This is the same fault that I thought moving the FIP had cleared. Switched on again and at idle the timing modulation was going between 77 and 84. Cleared the fault and all seemed fine with timing modulation at 56. After a couple more engine shut downs with timing modulation up in the 70s we set off and keeping revs below 2000 and sticking to back roads made it back home, without the engine check light coming on again. Timing modulation at idle before I switched off was 56.
I have no idea why this sudden change happened. But I am pleased we managed to nurse her back home.
I can't say all this is giving me confidence in the old girl!
This is the same fault that I thought moving the FIP had cleared. Switched on again and at idle the timing modulation was going between 77 and 84. Cleared the fault and all seemed fine with timing modulation at 56. After a couple more engine shut downs with timing modulation up in the 70s we set off and keeping revs below 2000 and sticking to back roads made it back home, without the engine check light coming on again. Timing modulation at idle before I switched off was 56.
I have no idea why this sudden change happened. But I am pleased we managed to nurse her back home.
I can't say all this is giving me confidence in the old girl!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Check that you haven't trapped the wire for the needle lift sensor with the manifold, check also the the insulation is not rubbed through and that the connector is fully seated.
Thanks - good idea - hopefully it is something like that. Will have a look tomorrow.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Moving the FIP should have no effect on the needle lift sensor.
Needle lift valve is injector #4. I think it will run on default values from the crank if you unplug it.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Flags a fault on mine.
But runs?
