Mark Piercy said:
Loosen the top cap bolts ever so slightly and with the engine running, gently tap the top cap towards the front of the car...or the bulkhead. Gently does it now!!
It may leak a little diesel from the pump while your doing this. It's really precise on its position for the idles .👍
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Surely it's the middle section that needs to be moved not the top cover. Plus make sure the pin is engaged.
 
Datatek said:
Surely it's the middle section that needs to be moved not the top cover. Plus make sure the pin is engaged.
Click to expand...
You may have a point there young man 🤔👍
It's been a couple years or so since we did ours and clients pump seals🥴
 
I'm sure in my guide it's the quantity housing cover and if miss aligned causes the hunting effect.
It has been a while since doing my own pump and iv not read my guide gor years.
I did find it on my old laptop tho
 
Thanks for all your suggestions. I shall try to tap tomorrow, but I don't want to ruin the new FIP gaskets by smacking the casing sideways too hard... There is a Youtube video of a couple of blokes doing this and it looks a bit frightening!
 
A nice clear morning so I had a go. Slackened off the three lower bolts plus the long one on the front right and tapped back to the bulkhead - made it worse. So tapped the other way to the front and hey presto the engine idled at 800rpm. Nipped it all up and put it back together, took it round the block and it worked fine.

Modulation with water temp at 87 degrees was sitting between 48.75 and 50. 30

I suppose I shall have to find the courage to take her out for a run... Last time we came back on breakdown truck!
 
BigJessie said:
A nice clear morning so I had a go. Slackened off the three lower bolts plus the long one on the front right and tapped back to the bulkhead - made it worse. So tapped the other way to the front and hey presto the engine idled at 800rpm. Nipped it all up and put it back together, took it round the block and it worked fine.

Modulation with water temp at 87 degrees was sitting between 48.75 and 50. 30

I suppose I shall have to find the courage to take her out for a run... Last time we came back on breakdown truck!
Click to expand...
Good news. The modulation is near enough, at the optimum running temperature of 95C, it will be about 55%.
 
Datatek said:
Good news. The modulation is near enough, at the optimum running temperature of 95C, it will be about 55%.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your help - it is very much appreciated. We took her out for a good run and she behaved perfectly, with good power up hills, and starting immediately both cold and warm. Checked the modulation when we got back and it was 55. You must be psychic!

Set point and actual are very close. I noticed on the YouTube video that the blokes were adjusting the fuel quantity to 4.5 - 5.0 and mine is moving between 3.75 - 4.00. Not sure whether this is within range - and as the engine seems fine and is pulling very well I will want to leave it alone.
 
BigJessie said:
Thanks for your help - it is very much appreciated. We took her out for a good run and she behaved perfectly, with good power up hills, and starting immediately both cold and warm. Checked the modulation when we got back and it was 55. You must be psychic!

Set point and actual are very close. I noticed on the YouTube video that the blokes were adjusting the fuel quantity to 4.5 - 5.0 and mine is moving between 3.75 - 4.00. Not sure whether this is within range - and as the engine seems fine and is pulling very well I will want to leave it alone.
Click to expand...
Sounds good to me, leave well alone :D
 
BigJessie said:
Thanks for your help - it is very much appreciated. We took her out for a good run and she behaved perfectly, with good power up hills, and starting immediately both cold and warm. Checked the modulation when we got back and it was 55. You must be psychic!

Set point and actual are very close. I noticed on the YouTube video that the blokes were adjusting the fuel quantity to 4.5 - 5.0 and mine is moving between 3.75 - 4.00. Not sure whether this is within range - and as the engine seems fine and is pulling very well I will want to leave it alone.
Click to expand...

You shouldn't need to touch the fuel quantity. That just hides other issues.
 
Grrrrrr said:
You shouldn't need to touch the fuel quantity. That just hides other issues.
Click to expand...
Right, shall leave well alone. The idle is still a bit uneven, but I shall give her a good run out this week and see if it all settles down. Getting my head around how the fueling system has been conceived has been quite an adventure - and a long way from adjusting the timing on my old Series 3. Thanks again for everyone's contributions.
 
BigJessie said:
Right, shall leave well alone. The idle is still a bit uneven, but I shall give her a good run out this week and see if it all settles down. Getting my head around how the fueling system has been conceived has been quite an adventure - and a long way from adjusting the timing on my old Series 3. Thanks again for everyone's contributions.
Click to expand...

I'm sure you've worked it out by now but in summary:

Engine ECU needs code from BECM in order to run.

Lift punp pumps fuel to high pressure fuel injection pump.

The FIP is coarse timed on a chain and adjusted with a dial guage.

The ECU takes its initial timing from the crank sensor but then fine tunes the injection timing with a solenoid in top of the pump by conparing what the crank sensor tells it with what it receives from the needle sensor built into injector number 4.

Fuelling is taken from maps based on throttle position and inlet air temperature on older cars or mass air flow readings on younger cars, together with the manifold air pressure.

Timing chain stretch can lead to hot start issues. Younger cars pump fuel on cranking to try and overcome this and have a lower rpm threshold on the running map to allow the car to run. Most older cars have a hot start fix which fools the engine into thinking it is cold when it is hot so it uses more fuel and always uses the glows. I think the cold map is more forgiving on rpm too.

New chains have a different timing setup for the FIP and the camshaft bolt than chains that are run in. Most people remember to adjust the FIP but forget to reset the camshaft sprocket with the shim.
 
You might find the engine settles down after a 20 or 30 minute drive.
 
Thanks for taking the trouble to put that down in writing. I notice that when cold the idle speed is around 1000RPM, but this goes down to around 800 after a minute or two. We put off the long run because the pulley tensioner was whining, but the new one came today and I have just fitted it, so we shall take her out at the weekend.
 
BigJessie said:
Thanks for taking the trouble to put that down in writing. I notice that when cold the idle speed is around 1000RPM, but this goes down to around 800 after a minute or two. We put off the long run because the pulley tensioner was whining, but the new one came today and I have just fitted it, so we shall take her out at the weekend.
Click to expand...
1000/1200rpm is normal when cold
 
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