They should be supplied with a new filter and plug washer and should be changed everytime along with the cap oring. As we know
Well the reason I asked this because I found there is too little oil in the housing upon removing the filter.They should be supplied with a new filter and plug washer and should be changed everytime along with the cap oring. As we know
There is oil in there and the filter definitely filters the oil. The noise my engine keeps making is almost undeniable from the ofh. I took a look in there but there is not much to see except for a kind of spring loaded valve. The โknockโ could potentially be a valve that opens and closes all the time. I noise does not change with rpm and when on the gas you cannot hear it expect at idle. This noise drives me crazy
I changed the oil multiple times over with a new filter, I use a bosh filter, each time I use the o-rings provided in the kit.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
With some filters the cap O ring is too thin and does not seal.They should be supplied with a new filter and plug washer and should be changed everytime along with the cap oring. As we know
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Metal inlet on a 98. Hmmm
Morning,
Just sticked my head under the bonnet again of the p38.
I've let the car idle a bit, when cold no noise at all, when getting warmer the knock appears.
Strangely enough I never thought about touching the oil cooler feed and return lines, I noticed only one of them is warm, the other remains cold...
Is there a one way valve installed in the oil cooler or housing? Could it be that the oil hoses are reversed causing no oil to enter the cooler and therefore making this noise?
Just sticked my head under the bonnet again of the p38.
I've let the car idle a bit, when cold no noise at all, when getting warmer the knock appears.
Strangely enough I never thought about touching the oil cooler feed and return lines, I noticed only one of them is warm, the other remains cold...
Is there a one way valve installed in the oil cooler or housing? Could it be that the oil hoses are reversed causing no oil to enter the cooler and therefore making this noise?
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
as well as the pressure sensor
Pull the sump off and check all the end caps! 
This could save a lot of expense buying parts for what could be a sick engine. It's a lot of hassle but to be sure it's not a serious hardware fault
This could save a lot of expense buying parts for what could be a sick engine. It's a lot of hassle but to be sure it's not a serious hardware fault
Any news on your 38'?
Well, the noise is from the injection pump housing. With a stethoscope it is clear that this is the source, with the intake installed it resonated a lot and so it seemed at first to be coming from the ofh. I have a second pump on hand and will replace it next weekend.
Actually I bought a e39 lower mileage engine and the pump came with it.
Iโm going to refresh the e39 engine and eventually swap it with the current one, but Iโm going to run it as is for the time being. But first get it through inspection.
Attachments
Unplug the airflow meter and see if the noise stops
Yes indeed it has that number on it
I need some advice concerning a cylinderhead.
As you know a have a second engine on hand that currently is in the process of refreshing. The engine as it sits is now completely dismantled. I checked over the crank and polished the bearing surfaces and they measure all within spec as per rave.
I cleaned the head and started out with checking the headโs surface longitudinal and lateral.
The lateral spec is 0.05mm and it meets this spec no problem.
However longitudinal the spec is 0.10mm and I can slide the feeler gauge underneath the ruler I use right between cylinder 2 up until 5. So it seems the head is warped slightly.
I tried to determine the exact amount but I only have feeler gauges in steps of 0.05mm and I cannot get 0.15 underneath the ruler so probably itโll measure somewhere in between.
Could it be normal the head is like that since the head bolts are tightened from the centre out?
Since the head cannot be surfaced and it checks out fine laterally, could it be safe to use it like that?
As you know a have a second engine on hand that currently is in the process of refreshing. The engine as it sits is now completely dismantled. I checked over the crank and polished the bearing surfaces and they measure all within spec as per rave.
I cleaned the head and started out with checking the headโs surface longitudinal and lateral.
The lateral spec is 0.05mm and it meets this spec no problem.
However longitudinal the spec is 0.10mm and I can slide the feeler gauge underneath the ruler I use right between cylinder 2 up until 5. So it seems the head is warped slightly.
I tried to determine the exact amount but I only have feeler gauges in steps of 0.05mm and I cannot get 0.15 underneath the ruler so probably itโll measure somewhere in between.
Could it be normal the head is like that since the head bolts are tightened from the centre out?
Since the head cannot be surfaced and it checks out fine laterally, could it be safe to use it like that?
Iโm going to bring it to the machine shop. I think the valve seats can be re-worked so the valves sit a bit lower to maintain clearanceThe head can possibly be skimmed, but it depends on the shop doing it and it's condition. It's 50/50 with the diesel unfortunately
That may depend on the limits of the camshaft followers
Datatek
Well-Known Member
BMW say the head cannot be skimmed and as it's prone to cracking, personally I wouldn't go for a skim. I recon the head would pull down OK but it's a gamble as is skimming but it's the cheaper option.The head can possibly be skimmed, but it depends on the shop doing it and it's condition. It's 50/50 with the diesel unfortunately
