Yes, I think it is also a good idea to replace that one. If I'm at it I might as well replace it. Would the pulley used for the BMD M51 e36 or e39 fit for the p38?
Yesterday I connected some more cabling and the I had fewer error logged by the nanocom, only clutch and left and right recirculation door motor.
By precaution I'm going to replace the blend motors while the dash is out and give everything a good lube.
 
rover75lover said:
dont know if its the same but just trying to help ,i had a small noise knocking ,which got worse and i thought the big ends were gone or the crank was picking up . with help off here it worked out to be the rubber dampening bush on the front crankshaft pulley . oddly the main give awsay in the end was that it wouldnt charge which worked out that the pulley when warm was slipping .
May not be that on yours but it may help .
with the belt off it still rattled so i thought i had crank probs.
hope it helps
it was only when the pulley was off you could see what was happening . the air con belt was moving ok as thats bolted directly on the crank ,whereas the pulley that drives the serpentine belt would hold,slip,rotate,catch slip etc
Click to expand...

That's a good call.

Blend motors have to be lined up properly and then calibrated with the Nanocom if you touch them.
 
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I shouldn't of said that it runs fine hot and cold before, I tried to start it an hour or 2 ago but it didn't start right away like it normally does. Opened the hood and there was a noticeable diesel smell, after checking it looks like injector 4 has a leak now. Plenty of air in the feed line towards the pump as well. Overflows tubes are new. Oh well it looks always like i'm going a few steps in the good direction but then there is always something else that requires attention. I believe I'm going to have to replace half the car :)

I ordered a new old stock BMW crank pulley, it fits no problems at half the price. Engine remains noisy, I'm getting more and more convinced that the distribution chains require replacement because it starts to rattle more and more in the front of the engine. Actually this engine has 2 kinds of noises, the chain noise in the front and a the knock where the oil filter is so I think they are not really related.
I was thinking, having read on forums and YouTube video's that a bad injector can cause a knocking sound. So I'm hoping the knocking will go away if I get injector 4 sorted since injector 4 aligns with the oil filter housing. The knocking sound is predominantly present there. I ordered the tool to be able to remove it, depending on what I find I'replace it.

Now concerning the distribution chains I'll need to think about doing this job myself :rolleyes: or having someone else do it...This is going to take longer than anticipated to get her back on the road.:vb-headbang:

Think I need a few of these to think it over :vb-drink:
 
BDC said:
I shouldn't of said that it runs fine hot and cold before, I tried to start it an hour or 2 ago but it didn't start right away like it normally does. Opened the hood and there was a noticeable diesel smell, after checking it looks like injector 4 has a leak now. Plenty of air in the feed line towards the pump as well. Overflows tubes are new. Oh well it looks always like i'm going a few steps in the good direction but then there is always something else that requires attention. I believe I'm going to have to replace half the car :)

I ordered a new old stock BMW crank pulley, it fits no problems at half the price. Engine remains noisy, I'm getting more and more convinced that the distribution chains require replacement because it starts to rattle more and more in the front of the engine. Actually this engine has 2 kinds of noises, the chain noise in the front and a the knock where the oil filter is so I think they are not really related.
I was thinking, having read on forums and YouTube video's that a bad injector can cause a knocking sound. So I'm hoping the knocking will go away if I get injector 4 sorted since injector 4 aligns with the oil filter housing. The knocking sound is predominantly present there. I ordered the tool to be able to remove it, depending on what I find I'replace it.

Now concerning the distribution chains I'll need to think about doing this job myself :rolleyes: or having someone else do it...This is going to take longer than anticipated to get her back on the road.:vb-headbang:

Think I need a few of these to think it over :vb-drink:
Click to expand...
Found some time today and decided to take the injector 4 out. No big deal came out easy. Now waiting for the new one to arrive.

In the mean time I had a look at the messages from hevac concerning the recirculation door motors.
Well what can I say it’s caput, the pinion axle snapped off and another pinion is missing some tooth.
IMG_4923.jpeg
 
BDC said:
Found some time today and decided to take the injector 4 out. No big deal came out easy. Now waiting for the new one to arrive.

In the mean time I had a look at the messages from hevac concerning the recirculation door motors.
Well what can I say it’s caput, the pinion axle snapped off and another pinion is missing some tooth.View attachment 295689
Click to expand...

Forgot to ask, I’m going to replace the blend flap motors all 3 since they connect to the same wiring harness. Could I use parts from the old ones to repare the recirculation motors?

Someone made a remark about alignment, but the axle has a flat spot to align with.

Maybe one should check the resistance and assemble in midrange? Just asking because I do not want to kill them instantly.

Thanks for all the information until now, it is much appreciated.
 
Yes, you can swap parts. I'm trying to remember what they look like inside but I recall there's marks to show where the cogs should touch on reassembly . After that you calibrate with the Nanocom or similar.
 
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Grrrrrr said:
Yes, you can swap parts. I'm trying to remember what they look like inside but I recall there's marks to show where the cogs should touch on reassembly . After that you calibrate with the Nanocom or similar.
Click to expand...
I opened up thee re-circulation motor and there is no variable resistor in there only pinions and a motor. I also noticed there are no marks on the pinions for that one. On the other hand there are some marks on the pinions of the blend motors in the center.

It will be trial and error, I'm thinking the calibration only applies to the center blend motors and not the left and right re-circulation motor since there is not a pot meter in there. However it seems by design that the motor is and mechanics are not strong enough to withstand the airflow hence the pinions and axles break.

It would be great if I get everything to work.
 
BDC said:
I opened up thee re-circulation motor and there is no variable resistor in there only pinions and a motor. I also noticed there are no marks on the pinions for that one. On the other hand there are some marks on the pinions of the blend motors in the center.

It will be trial and error, I'm thinking the calibration only applies to the center blend motors and not the left and right re-circulation motor since there is not a pot meter in there. However it seems by design that the motor is and mechanics are not strong enough to withstand the airflow hence the pinions and axles break.

It would be great if I get everything to work.
Click to expand...
It will not be the airflow breaking the pinions, it there is no pot in there, motor stall is being used to detect end of movement and it is that that will do the damage.
 
Alright, I think I'm going to attempt a timing chain replacement myself. But first I need to source the parts and some tools. I use Autodoc for parts orders. Does anybody have any recommendations for timing chain kits, I see there are different makes available from cheap to expensive.

I did some reading here on timing chain replacements, I read someone was able to do it in a BMW e39 without lifting the head. I don't understand how he did it since there is the stud with the nut on the right hand side, unless he removed it. Anyways I think the only right way is to remove the head.

In the mean time some 2nd hand parts have arrived for the re-circulation motors:vb-banana:. Hopefully I can fit and test in the upcoming weekend. If everything works out the dash can go in again :cool:.
 
BDC said:
Alright, I think I'm going to attempt a timing chain replacement myself. But first I need to source the parts and some tools. I use Autodoc for parts orders. Does anybody have any recommendations for timing chain kits, I see there are different makes available from cheap to expensive.

I did some reading here on timing chain replacements, I read someone was able to do it in a BMW e39 without lifting the head. I don't understand how he did it since there is the stud with the nut on the right hand side, unless he removed it. Anyways I think the only right way is to remove the head.

In the mean time some 2nd hand parts have arrived for the re-circulation motors:vb-banana:. Hopefully I can fit and test in the upcoming weekend. If everything works out the dash can go in again :cool:.
Click to expand...
Don't remove the head, if it buckles it's a 50/50 it can be rectified... The stud can be removed normally even if you weld a nut on it to help.
 
Mark Piercy said:
Auto doc pfff.... 😣 Not had great experience with online company's that make mistakes (autodoc) and it costs you to have it put right.
Click to expand...
I'm not impressed with them either. Watch out though, they use several different names on the internet.
 
Quick question, the oil filter housing (ofh), should it remain full of oil? What I mean is, if you let the car sit for a day and you open de ofh should it be full of oil?
I would think so but I wanted the opinion from someone here. It is not the case for my car
 
BDC said:
Quick question, the oil filter housing (ofh), should it remain full of oil? What I mean is, if you let the car sit for a day and you open de ofh should it be full of oil?
I would think so but I wanted the opinion from someone here. It is not the case for my car
Click to expand...
BMW M51 engine?
 
Good question🤔 I normally loosen it until it gurgles when I do the oil and that normally after ten minutes of it being parked up for the service 🤷‍♂️
 
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On the M54 6pot petrol if you loosen off the filter head a valve opens in the filter housing allowing the majority to drain down to the sump..

Might be the same deal for the m51.

Only one way to find out ;)
 
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BDC said:
Quick question, the oil filter housing (ofh), should it remain full of oil? What I mean is, if you let the car sit for a day and you open de ofh should it be full of oil?
I would think so but I wanted the opinion from someone here. It is not the case for my car
Click to expand...

It will have some oil in it and it will try to drip everywhere as you take the filter out. Full to the top? No.
 
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If it is completely empty, check the little O rings at the end of the plastic that goes from the cap down the centre of the filter.
 
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