Mark Piercy said:
Here is a trick, unplug the little sensor on the on the fuel filter housing. I had something like this a while ago but can't remember what i did to sort it... I think it was the fourth injector but I'm so sure 😕
Click to expand...
The sensor on the fuel housing is the MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure), check for the spigot on the manifold being blocked.
 
BDC said:
Well, I found some time and decided to take the belts off and let it run. Same issue unfortunately, I’m afraid it might be the crank bearings or small end bearing. I really bought a basketcase… risky business buying a p38.
Click to expand...
Any vehicle is risky, the biggest issue is that it was sat for a while and may have not been maintained as it should have been... 😞
 
Datatek said:
The sensor on the fuel housing is the MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure), check for the spigot on the manifold being blocked.
Click to expand...
The reason I did it at the time was because the fuel quality jobby in the pump was clicking and when I unugged the map sensor it stopped🤷‍♂️god knows why!!!
if I remember it was cured with a new fourth injector as it was leaking from the sensor...
This may not be our mates problem though 🤔
 
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Took off the air inlet this evening and played around with the fip in an effort to adjust the modulation to 50%. I don't know who said it earlier but it is indeed the little cap on injector 6 that is leaking diesel. I''ll need to change that later on just need to find pn for that.

So I used the method without the gauge and used a ruler instead. I first moved the pump back towards the airbox and then went in the direction of the motor. According to the values recorded with nancom I calculated the average modulation and it was about 20%. So this meant I had to move +-15mm. So I did and verified it and I found a maximum of 90% and a minimum of 75% in that position, it is probably not so linear, however I noticed less noise. I don't know if that is correlated but it seemed less noticeble.

Anyhow in the end I was only 2mm from the original position, still less noise but I think it might be inherent to this engine. I'm not entirely sure but I checked the oil after I changed it and I cannot see metal particals in it, I suppose that in case of a worn bearing it would become apparent in the oil? The car start fine cold and hot.
Other then that I noticed the waterpump has a little play in it so it has to come out and I'm going to replace it. I need to replace the heater matrix o-rings as well, might as well change the thermostat too while I'm at it.

I'll make another video for comparision when I get back rom holiday.

Thanks to everyone for all the input so far.
 
The FIP static needs adjusting after a certain number of miles if the chains have been changed. It is in RAVE, 12k miles? The crank pulley also has to be set with a shim under the holding tool at a certain mileage on the chains.
 
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BDC said:
Took off the air inlet this evening and played around with the fip in an effort to adjust the modulation to 50%. I don't know who said it earlier but it is indeed the little cap on injector 6 that is leaking diesel. I''ll need to change that later on just need to find pn for that.

So I used the method without the gauge and used a ruler instead. I first moved the pump back towards the airbox and then went in the direction of the motor. According to the values recorded with nancom I calculated the average modulation and it was about 20%. So this meant I had to move +-15mm. So I did and verified it and I found a maximum of 90% and a minimum of 75% in that position, it is probably not so linear, however I noticed less noise. I don't know if that is correlated but it seemed less noticeble.

Anyhow in the end I was only 2mm from the original position, still less noise but I think it might be inherent to this engine. I'm not entirely sure but I checked the oil after I changed it and I cannot see metal particals in it, I suppose that in case of a worn bearing it would become apparent in the oil? The car start fine cold and hot.
Other then that I noticed the waterpump has a little play in it so it has to come out and I'm going to replace it. I need to replace the heater matrix o-rings as well, might as well change the thermostat too while I'm at it.

I'll make another video for comparision when I get back rom holiday.

Thanks to everyone for all the input so far.
Click to expand...
Make sure you get a pump with a metal impeller.
 
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BDC said:
Took off the air inlet this evening and played around with the fip in an effort to adjust the modulation to 50%. I don't know who said it earlier but it is indeed the little cap on injector 6 that is leaking diesel. I''ll need to change that later on just need to find pn for that.

Thanks to everyone for all the input so far.
Click to expand...

Has the nipple snapped off or have they just damaged the rubber cap? I put a short length of spill pipe (3.2 mm) with a bokt that had a smear of Hylomar to cap mine off.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Has the nipple snapped off or have they just damaged the rubber cap? I put a short length of spill pipe (3.2 mm) with a bokt that had a smear of Hylomar to cap mine off.
Click to expand...
It is still intact apart from tiny holes on the side, when you bend it a bit diesel ****es out. Not sure what to do next. If I continue with thermostat, waterpump, oil, filters , belts spanners gaskets and i'll stil have the issue it's has been for nothing. I'm thinking maybe to strip of the head and chains, since the sump must come off to do this I could check for play on big end. I could also consider an engine swap or start to overhaul the existing engine but I'm not really equiped to do that. I'm goig to clear my head a bit let it rest...
 
If you know anyone on the trade, I'd get a second opinion. As you said your not a mechanic and ever have been, this could get really daunting really quickly😳
 
Datatek said:
Quite possibly.
Click to expand...
Ok just a little update. Went on a trip with my bike for a week came back and I decided to continue with maintenance. So I replaced the thermostat, water pump, viscous fan, belts, pullies for the tensioner, the one next to the tensioner and in front of generator, replaced the glow plugs, installed cap on injector 6, installed new gasgets on inlet manifold, air filter, oil filter, fuel filter.
The car is starting very easy hot and cold. No more diesel leaks.

I also replaced the o-rings on the heater matrix but then I saw that the heater core is actually broken, there is a crack in the plastic and thus leaking from there.

So I decided to take out the dash and replace the heater matix rather than cutting the frame. After installation no more leaks. The car also actually gets warm after the thermostat replacement, that was not the case before, i guess it was stuck open.

The engine noise is still there, and is coming from the oil filter housing and i'm a 100% sure, I found some treads on the internet with similar issues but not a solution, I might change the ofh with a second hand one although I don't see what could be wrong with it.

That aside I'm having some other issues with hevac. I ran nanocom to see was errors I got and the list is quite long:rolleyes:

Before I start to order parts, Is there someone out there who knows how to go about this, It seems nothing is working. Off course the dash is still out of place but I did connect the hevac controller and solar and in car sensor.

NANOCOM - HEVAC.APP - VALEO HEVAC fault file

(17) THE DISTRIBUTION MOTOR FEEDBACK CIRCUIT IS FAULTY.
(FAULT TYPE = CURRENT)
---
(19) THE LEFT RECIRCULATION DOOR MOTOR IS SHORT CIRCUIT TO POSITIVE 12V.
(FAULT TYPE = CURRENT)
---
(22) THE RIGHT RECIRCULATION DOOR MOTOR IS SHORT CIRCUIT TO POSITIVE 12V.
(FAULT TYPE = CURRENT)
---
(33) COMPRESSOR CLUTCH CIRCUIT OPEN.
(FAULT TYPE = CURRENT)
---
(46) ASPIRATOR (IN CAR) TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND.
(FAULT TYPE = CURRENT)
---
(50) HEATER CORE TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND.
(FAULT TYPE = CURRENT)
---
(54) DISTRIBUTION DOOR MOTOR STALL POSITION FAULT.
(FAULT TYPE = CURRENT)
---
(17) THE DISTRIBUTION MOTOR FEEDBACK CIRCUIT IS FAULTY.
(FAULT TYPE = LOGGED)
---
(19) THE LEFT RECIRCULATION DOOR MOTOR IS SHORT CIRCUIT TO POSITIVE 12V.
(FAULT TYPE = LOGGED)
---
(22) THE RIGHT RECIRCULATION DOOR MOTOR IS SHORT CIRCUIT TO POSITIVE 12V.
(FAULT TYPE = LOGGED)
---
(33) COMPRESSOR CLUTCH CIRCUIT OPEN.
(FAULT TYPE = LOGGED)
---
(46) ASPIRATOR (IN CAR) TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND.
(FAULT TYPE = LOGGED)
---
(50) HEATER CORE TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND.
(FAULT TYPE = LOGGED)
---
(54) DISTRIBUTION DOOR MOTOR STALL POSITION FAULT.
(FAULT TYPE = LOGGED)
---
 
Delete the codes and go through the process of operating the hevac system. They could be historic faults. Was the ignition on at any point while the dash was taken in/out?
 
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Mark Piercy said:
Delete the codes and go through the process of operating the hevac system. They could be historic faults. Was the ignition on at any point while the dash was taken in/out?
Click to expand...
+1 ^^^^^^^^ If power was applied to the HEVAC with some connectors unplugged, it will log faults.
I would add that I have read reports of Nanocom having trouble communicating with the HEVAC so they could also be phantom faults.
 
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Datatek said:
+1 ^^^^^^^^ If power was applied to the HEVAC with some connectors unplugged, it will log faults.
I would add that I have read reports of Nanocom having trouble communicating with the HEVAC so they could also be phantom faults.
Click to expand...
+1 ^^^ on the phantom faults with Nanocom and HEVAC. We had it on mine 18 months back. I had a fault on one motor and this caused Nanocom to read a fault with the good one. When trying to force move the faulty motor with nanocom the good motor moved but showed it as faulty. Believe this has been a common problem with Nanocm and Blackbox were trying to fix it. try looking on their forum.
 
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dont know if its the same but just trying to help ,i had a small noise knocking ,which got worse and i thought the big ends were gone or the crank was picking up . with help off here it worked out to be the rubber dampening bush on the front crankshaft pulley . oddly the main give awsay in the end was that it wouldnt charge which worked out that the pulley when warm was slipping .
May not be that on yours but it may help .
with the belt off it still rattled so i thought i had crank probs.
hope it helps
it was only when the pulley was off you could see what was happening . the air con belt was moving ok as thats bolted directly on the crank ,whereas the pulley that drives the serpentine belt would hold,slip,rotate,catch slip etc
 
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