A

AG85

Member
I have a 2001 Range Rover diesel with that have a engine problem.

The engine runs very hard. It sounds like misfiring or knocking. Nanocom have a one fault, that is: injector timing value out of expected range.

There is no smoke. Engine is pulling well with heavy trailer. Fuel consumption is normal.

I have checked static timing.
Timing is 0,90.

Timing modulation are 5-30% with warm engine on idle.

Any advice for next step?

Atle
 
AG85 said:
I have a 2001 Range Rover diesel with that have a engine problem.

The engine runs very hard. It sounds like misfiring or knocking. Nanocom have a one fault, that is: injector timing value out of expected range.

There is no smoke. Engine is pulling well with heavy trailer. Fuel consumption is normal.

I have checked static timing.
Timing is 0,90.

Timing modulation are 5-30% with warm engine on idle.

Any advice for next step?

Atle
Click to expand...
If the timing is correct, the modulation, engine at running temperature, should be around 50%. The figure you have suggests the static timing is out despite you saying otherwise. Have you checked the needle lift sensor and crank sensor signals?
Wammers is the man for this.
 
With nanocom I have readings from the needle sensor and crank sensor signal.

How do I check the readings is correct?

The FIP is leaking, will loss of internal pressure in the pump effect injection timing?
 
I have checked and dobbel checked the static timing.
I was 100% sure that timing was faulty before doing this.

I consider to check the register chains.

Is it possible to have correct static timing if the previes owner have done the timing faulty?
 
@wammers is the man for this.

With modulation that low if it drops to zero it will throw a wobbly.

Normally chain stretch leads to higher modulation.

There are other holes in the flywheel near the TDC one. Might have located in wrong hole?

Or maybe someone has been playing with crank sensor? No-one has touched that bracket have they?

Best wait for Wammers though as I am only throwing guesses.
 
I followed the RAVE manual injection time check.
Set no 1 cam lobe upwards. Mount the gauge in pump with 2mm press.
Turn clockwise.
Zero gauge at turning point (lowest).
Turn clockwise and press pin at same time until pin drop in. Read gauge.

Is this wrong?

The previous owner changed the engine so maybe crank sensor have been touch.

How to set/check crank sensor?
 
AG85 said:
I followed the RAVE manual injection time check.
Set no 1 cam lobe upwards. Mount the gauge in pump with 2mm press.
Turn clockwise.
Zero gauge at turning point (lowest).
Turn clockwise and press pin at same time until pin drop in. Read gauge.

Is this wrong?

The previous owner changed the engine so maybe crank sensor have been touch.

How to set/check crank sensor?
Click to expand...
Do not touch the crank sensor mount. If you have readings from the crank sensor on diagnostics, it's OK.
You could try adjusting the FIP using the diagnostics to get it in the range 45 to 55% modulation and see what happens.
Last movement of the FIP when setting the static timing must always be towards the engine which is
anti-clockwise, plus the crank must never be turned backwards. If your last FIP movement was clockwise the timing will be out.
I'm pretty certain your static timing is out.
 
Today I followed a tip for checking the woodruff key in the FIP was in placed. Turn the cam love against inlet. Insert locking tool in flywheel, loosen the nut but couldn’t see if the key was in place or not.

Than I replaced the nut an then the sprocket turned... So I believe I ****ed up the timing!

No the timing is 0,39...
 
When the pin is inside flywheel I have play for about 0,04mm. Is that correct? Maybe I have hit the other flywheel hole?
 
AG85 said:
When the pin is inside flywheel I have play for about 0,04mm. Is that correct? Maybe I have hit the other flywheel hole?
Click to expand...

That sounds about right. It rocks ever so slightly. You then turn and the dial guage should go down. When it won't go any lower you zero the guage and then keep turning until you get the required reading for your chain mileage. I did it a few times to be sure.

If someone has turned the engine backwards or messed up while swapping the pump it might be a link out.
 
First of all, IF the static is correct modulation at 750 RPM engine up to temp should be between 45% and 55% and be rock steady at a value between those two parameters with NO fluctuation. If the modulation is fluctuating there maybe a sensor or connection fault. Either number four injector or CPS. OP says 5% to 30% at idle warm engine, that reading should not be fluctuating it should be steady. Modulation below 45% means static is too advanced and modulation above 55% means it is retarded. Secondly, if you don't know what you are doing, get someone who does to look at it.
 
An update.
The register chain was on it way thru the chain guide tensioner.
Change complete register.
The engine sounds fantastic.
Idle is rock steady and no knocking sounds.
Modulation steady at 54%.
 
AG85 said:
An update.
The register chain was on it way thru the chain guide tensioner.
Change complete register.
The engine sounds fantastic.
Idle is rock steady and no knocking sounds.
Modulation steady at 54%.
Click to expand...

@ovalandrover: did you have an issue with low modulation or am I thinking of someone else?
 
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