Louis2.5DSE said:
That's a good idea! But if I do that how do I know what the correct hole is ? And if I am in the correct one is it worth setting the camshaft 180° the other way?
Click to expand...
The correct hole is shown in RAVE, you cannot pin the crank 180 degrees out as there is only one correct hole. With the crank correctly locked, it's case of ensuring the FIP is correctly timed and not 180 degrees out and then the cam.
 
Datatek said:
The correct hole is shown in RAVE, you cannot pin the crank 180 degrees out as there is only one correct hole. With the crank correctly locked, it's case of ensuring the FIP is correctly timed and not 180 degrees out and then the cam.
Click to expand...
What is RAVE ? And if the crank and FIP are not in the right place I could probably have set the camshaft 180° out how do I know the FIP sprocket and crank are right?
 
Should be vertical not horizontal
5D056CC9-96D2-4863-97F5-0D6C511D4F52.jpegE7EEFD3C-EB26-4DF9-978B-9CB9EA024D09.jpeg988D43E4-8A51-459C-8105-F6BAB5BB3211.jpeg
 
Louis2.5DSE said:
What is RAVE ? And if the crank and FIP are not in the right place I could probably have set the camshaft 180° out how do I know the FIP sprocket and crank are right?
Click to expand...
RAVE can be downloaded but if you cannot do that I can post you a CD with RAVE and other information on it.
 
I shall see if I can download RAVE.
But going back to square 1 all I have done is the head gasket I am pretty sure I locked the engine in the right place when I dismantled it and almost certain the crank was locked in the correct hole on the flywheel when I built it up. I haven't done anything concerning the bottom chain so crank to FIP are still synchronized. Engine was turned over by hand at least 2 or 3 times and felt fine, but it refuses to start and back fires. As I am writing this the flywheel is pinned in what I am almost certain is the correct hole and the camshaft tool is in place, see photos, I can not understand what I have done wrong when this is something I have done before and had no trouble with?
And if I was in the wrong hole on the fly wheel wouldn't the pistons be hitting the valves?
IMG_20240107_112728_638.jpg
IMG_20240107_112740_084.jpg
 
Louis2.5DSE said:
I shall see if I can download RAVE.
But going back to square 1 all I have done is the head gasket I am pretty sure I locked the engine in the right place when I dismantled it and almost certain the crank was locked in the correct hole on the flywheel when I built it up. I haven't done anything concerning the bottom chain so crank to FIP are still synchronized. Engine was turned over by hand at least 2 or 3 times and felt fine, but it refuses to start and back fires. As I am writing this the flywheel is pinned in what I am almost certain is the correct hole and the camshaft tool is in place, see photos, I can not understand what I have done wrong when this is something I have done before and had no trouble with?
And if I was in the wrong hole on the fly wheel wouldn't the pistons be hitting the valves? View attachment 306940View attachment 306941
Click to expand...
Remind me, did you remove the injector pipes from the FIP?
 
There was a lomg thread between Wammers and someone who got the timing out by 180 degrees but I cannot remember who. Was it the guy burning the witch's brew of veggie oil and something. Might have been from Liverpool? That thread might help as Wammers went into a lot of detail.
 
With the cam locked flat at TDC no1 firing as above, you need to check the position of the woodruff on pump. It should be at the top while the engine is locked at this position. Think you need a small mirror and light to see it in there?
If it’s at the bottom you are 180* out.

I take it you matched up the bright links when you refitted the chains?
 
RangeRoller dt said:
With the cam locked flat at TDC no1 firing as above, you need to check the position of the woodruff on pump. It should be at the top while the engine is locked at this position. Think you need a small mirror and light to see it in there?
If it’s at the bottom you are 180* out.

I take it you matched up the bright links when you refitted the chains?
Click to expand...
Says he didn't touch the crank to FIP chain.
 
Louis2.5DSE said:
I shall see if I can download RAVE.
But going back to square 1 all I have done is the head gasket I am pretty sure I locked the engine in the right place when I dismantled it and almost certain the crank was locked in the correct hole on the flywheel when I built it up. I haven't done anything concerning the bottom chain so crank to FIP are still synchronized. Engine was turned over by hand at least 2 or 3 times and felt fine, but it refuses to start and back fires. As I am writing this the flywheel is pinned in what I am almost certain is the correct hole and the camshaft tool is in place, see photos, I can not understand what I have done wrong when this is something I have done before and had no trouble with?
And if I was in the wrong hole on the fly wheel wouldn't the pistons be hitting the valves? View attachment 306940View attachment 306941
Click to expand...
You can check the fip position by removing the belt tensioner this is where you normally insert the sprocket holder if you want to remove the fip. I think you have to remove the nut in order to see the woodruff key, it should be facing up 12 o’clock
 
With everything setup, flywheel tdc etc the woodruff should be facing upwards. I attached a picture but can’t remember if I took it with everything aligned, might just have been to verify orientation.
IMG_5142.jpeg
 
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