Mark Piercy said:
You could do with bleeding the system completely incase of air ingress. It needs to be done according to the rave sequence precisely 👍
Click to expand...

+1.

If the accumulator has been out completely it can be a total PITA getting all the air out. I used an Ezibleed kit to bleed about 3 litres of fluid through it before carrying on with the rest of the RAVE procedure.

If the rear brake lines haven't been done then do them first.
 
Grrrrrr said:
+1.

If the accumulator has been out completely it can be a total PITA getting all the air out. I used an Ezibleed kit to bleed about 3 litres of fluid through it before carrying on with the rest of the RAVE procedure.

If the rear brake lines haven't been done then do them first.
Click to expand...
I bought a tool like that as well, you don’t have to be 2 people for bleeding the brakes and that really helps.

I have the height sensors on order, when they arrive I can do the calibration.

Remember I was complaining about smoke a while ago. I had the injectors revised by a bosh centre. Quite costly I must admit.
I still had a leak on 2 injectors where they screw together. Just to make sure I did replace the return lines again on those and verified the top connection. That didn’t help.. took the injectors out again put them in a vice and tightened them a bit more. Now no more leaks…. I paid 600€ to get them revised.
Ah well the difference is that now the car doesn’t suffer from smoke anymore.
 
BDC said:
I bought a tool like that as well, you don’t have to be 2 people for bleeding the brakes and that really helps.

I have the height sensors on order, when they arrive I can do the calibration.

Remember I was complaining about smoke a while ago. I had the injectors revised by a bosh centre. Quite costly I must admit.
I still had a leak on 2 injectors where they screw together. Just to make sure I did replace the return lines again on those and verified the top connection. That didn’t help.. took the injectors out again put them in a vice and tightened them a bit more. Now no more leaks…. I paid 600€ to get them revised.
Ah well the difference is that now the car doesn’t suffer from smoke anymore.
Click to expand...

I think I would be leaving a review on TrustPilot for that.
 
BDC said:
Hi all, my name is Bart. I recently bought a 1998 p38 Range Rover. It is a 2.5 diesel and automatic.
I bought this as a project car so not a daily driver. I’m not a car mechanic and I have never worked on cars before. I did work on older motorcycles but that’s not the same right. I bought the car as a no runner so they delivered it on my doorstep with a trailer. The car has already run 312k km!
It belonged to an older guy, the car sat for several years and then somebody wanted to bring it back on the road. At first sight I noticed the car had a new radiator, viscous coupling, starter and solenoid, brake disk all around. I suspect the timing chains are new looking at the engine ( there’s silicone sealant on the covers) and everything in the engine looks clean.

However the car had a non working air suspension but at least the eas system was still in place. It also was difficult to start but then I noticed air bubbles in the feed line to the injection pump. Battery was dead and so on.

The first thing I did was buying a battery so I could start the car, it took a while to get her going. I tested the in tank fuel pump by bridging relay 12 and no pressure arrived at the fip.

Past weekend I removed the fuel tank and replaced the in tank fuel pump, seal and fill hose.

The car started from the first try ( after priming). That was a relief! However I couldn’t help notice a leak at injector 6 and also a puddle of diesel under the engine ( not the tank). The return lines look new and the only injector with a puddle of diesel is number 6. That being said I find my engine runs good although I cannot drive it on the road (no plates currently) but it does make some noise and I cannot say if it is normal. I attached a small video file, maybe somebody can tell me it’s normal or not. To my ears there seems to be a knock and it seems to come from around the oil filter.



I also bought a nanocom and noticed the fueling is at 8 to 9 mg/stroke. Isn’t that too much or should I leave it alone?

Anyways your thoughts are welcome.
Cheers
Click to expand...

Hi, did you ever get an answer to whether 8-9 mg/stroke was too high a fuel rate? Started looking through this post but gave up after page 6. On YT chap recons it should be between 4-5 mg? My idle is at 950 and car feels slightly underpowered. Been through similar issues to yours but thankfully I haven't had to dig so deep.... yet!
 
jimmacD said:
Hi, did you ever get an answer to whether 8-9 mg/stroke was too high a fuel rate? Started looking through this post but gave up after page 6. On YT chap recons it should be between 4-5 mg? My idle is at 950 and car feels slightly underpowered. Been through similar issues to yours but thankfully I haven't had to dig so deep.... yet!
Click to expand...
Idle should be 750rpm +/-50rpm. Have you had the top and next level down off the FIP?
 
jimmacD said:
Hi, did you ever get an answer to whether 8-9 mg/stroke was too high a fuel rate? Started looking through this post but gave up after page 6. On YT chap recons it should be between 4-5 mg? My idle is at 950 and car feels slightly underpowered. Been through similar issues to yours but thankfully I haven't had to dig so deep.... yet!
Click to expand...
Well normally one shouldn’t dig that deep☺️ I love learning new things and I said to myself if I’m replacing the engine I might as well take a look inside.

The idle should be at 750, it can be changed slightly by changing the pump calibration setting in the nanocom, it should normally be at 128 to get an idle around 750.

But like datatek mentioned, did you move the top and middle cover on the fip before?
 
BDC said:
Well normally one shouldn’t dig that deep☺️ I love learning new things and I said to myself if I’m replacing the engine I might as well take a look inside.

The idle should be at 750, it can be changed slightly by changing the pump calibration setting in the nanocom, it should normally be at 128 to get an idle around 750.

But like datatek mentioned, did you move the top and middle cover on the fip before?
Click to expand...
I haven't touched the FIP, seen a YT vid where chap had power issues, loosened the top of FIP and tapperty tapped back to reduce the flow from 22-23 mg/s to between 4 and 5.
 
BDC said:
Well normally one shouldn’t dig that deep☺️ I love learning new things and I said to myself if I’m replacing the engine I might as well take a look inside.

The idle should be at 750, it can be changed slightly by changing the pump calibration setting in the nanocom, it should normally be at 128 to get an idle around 750.

But like datatek mentioned, did you move the top and middle cover on the fip before?
Click to expand...
I don't have nanocom only icarsoft, bit limited on peeps around here with good diagnostics and them that does, want £75 just to turn up and in the past have fooked my cars and then wanted paying!
 
I'm not sure what your 8/9mg/s relates to on your diagnostics. I don't recall ever seeing a figure as low as 4/5mg/s. I will do a check later today and see what the fuel quantity figure is on one of mine.
Bear in mind, if the idle speed is too high it will affect the fuel quantity. As said above, the idle trim figure in diagnostics is normally 128, if you have that figure and a high idle speed, I would be checking the EDC coolant temperature sensor because it sounds like the engine is running on cold settings. If a hot start mod is fitted and is faulty, that an produce the same effect. Running on cold settings would also account for it being sluggish.
 
Datatek said:
I'm not sure what your 8/9mg/s relates to on your diagnostics. I don't recall ever seeing a figure as low as 4/5mg/s. I will do a check later today and see what the fuel quantity figure is on one of mine.
Bear in mind, if the idle speed is too high it will affect the fuel quantity. As said above, the idle trim figure in diagnostics is normally 128, if you have that figure and a high idle speed, I would be checking the EDC coolant temperature sensor because it sounds like the engine is running on cold settings. If a hot start mod is fitted and is faulty, that an produce the same effect. Running on cold settings would also account for it being sluggish.
Click to expand...
Hi, can't see any hot start mod in the engine bay, usual tell is glow plug light on hot start. Had one on my last diesel, removed it and got the FIP timed was great after that. The 4-5 figure was referred to in an Youtube vid where the chap had no power, he loosened the top bolts and security bolt on top of FIP and friend tapped it until the mg/s level dropped.... he then had lower idle, throttle response and power? My P38 might be running perfectly and I just need to accept it is sloooooow? Needs 2500 rpm to pull away and get up to 30mph. Foot to the floor it does pick up and would probably see 70mph?
 
jimmacD said:
I haven't touched the FIP, seen a YT vid where chap had power issues, loosened the top of FIP and tapperty tapped back to reduce the flow from 22-23 mg/s to between 4 and 5.
Click to expand...

Do not touch the top of the pump!

Fuel idle can be changed with diagnotics but shouldn't be: it is only hiding other issues. Some thoughts to check:

MAP pipe dislodged or blocked.
MAF acting up if it has one.
Intercooler blocked.
Lift pump tired or dead.
FIP static timing (and cam bolt not set with spacer) can affect timing and performance.
Turbo pipes delaminating (usually see black smoke).
Cat blocked.
Damp in throttle pot or damaged throttle pot.
#4 injector acting up.
 
jimmacD said:
Hi, can't see any hot start mod in the engine bay, usual tell is glow plug light on hot start. Had one on my last diesel, removed it and got the FIP timed was great after that. The 4-5 figure was referred to in an Youtube vid where the chap had no power, he loosened the top bolts and security bolt on top of FIP and friend tapped it until the mg/s level dropped.... he then had lower idle, throttle response and power? My P38 might be running perfectly and I just need to accept it is sloooooow? Needs 2500 rpm to pull away and get up to 30mph. Foot to the floor it does pick up and would probably see 70mph?
Click to expand...
For
jimmacD said:
Hi, can't see any hot start mod in the engine bay, usual tell is glow plug light on hot start. Had one on my last diesel, removed it and got the FIP timed was great after that. The 4-5 figure was referred to in an Youtube vid where the chap had no power, he loosened the top bolts and security bolt on top of FIP and friend tapped it until the mg/s level dropped.... he then had lower idle, throttle response and power? My P38 might be running perfectly and I just need to accept it is sloooooow? Needs 2500 rpm to pull away and get up to 30mph. Foot to the floor it does pick up and would probably see 70mph?
Click to expand...
A quick get away on the diesel auto certainly needs a heavy foot and about 2500 rpm. However it should do a lot more than 70mph, at last 80mph.
As I said, you need to check the EDC coolant sensor and also the idle setting with diagnostics. If the EDC sensor is reporting more than 85C when it's been for a run, that's OK. If the idle setting is 128, then it may be that someone has at some time opened up the FIP, in which case the tapping method to move the part under the cover to bring the idle down to 750 rpm may be appropriate but NOT otherwise.
I would add that the throttle response is a bit odd until you get used to it, all the action is in the second half. The M51 engine is gutless below about 2000rpm.
 
Datatek said:
For

A quick get away on the diesel auto certainly needs a heavy foot and about 2500 rpm. However it should do a lot more than 70mph, at last 80mph.
As I said, you need to check the EDC coolant sensor and also the idle setting with diagnostics. If the EDC sensor is reporting more than 85C when it's been for a run, that's OK. If the idle setting is 128, then it may be that someone has at some time opened up the FIP, in which case the tapping method to move the part under the cover to bring the idle down to 750 rpm may be appropriate but NOT otherwise.
I would add that the throttle response is a bit odd until you get used to it, all the action is in the second half. The M51 engine is gutless below about 2000rpm.
Click to expand...

1750 rpm in the manual, although I have to admit the auto is way more sluggish.
 
Grrrrrr said:
1750 rpm in the manual, although I have to admit the auto is way more sluggish.
Click to expand...
My previous P38 have either been petrol or manual diesels so hard to gauge if current P38 has an issue or that's just they way they are unless you tune them? Will take me back to my VW camper days. I have two wheels for going fast and tend to drive like "Miss Daisy" these days, especially with full costs. My V8 4.4 L322 is pretty quick but I have probably only driven it in anger a handful of times over the last five years, like most fullfat drivers I just waft and wave at the peasants to get out the way.
The RF receiver has arrived, thank you! I need to crack open my key fob and resolder one of the micro switches, can't remember if you have to carefully run a blade between the case to split the fob? I have a few old ones so will practise. Still need to swap the driver's door handle private lock barrel, which will probably involve a bit of Dremeling to release the lock pin? Hey ho, it's all fun?
 
Datatek said:
For

A quick get away on the diesel auto certainly needs a heavy foot and about 2500 rpm. However it should do a lot more than 70mph, at last 80mph.
As I said, you need to check the EDC coolant sensor and also the idle setting with diagnostics. If the EDC sensor is reporting more than 85C when it's been for a run, that's OK. If the idle setting is 128, then it may be that someone has at some time opened up the FIP, in which case the tapping method to move the part under the cover to bring the idle down to 750 rpm may be appropriate but NOT otherwise.
I would add that the throttle response is a bit odd until you get used to it, all the action is in the second half. The M51 engine is gutless below about 2000rpm.
Click to expand...
Going to chuck a day at the old gal next week, need to sort a mystery suspension noise of Wifey's car and my 300c needs some love as the lift pump is making an orrible racket, unlike LR owners, Chrysler bobs seem to know feck all about their cars other than which big alloy wheels fit and where you can get angel eye headlight conversions from! Asked the question "where can I get new lift pump without sender unit?" and the tumble weed started rolling in! It seems that you can only get dodgy second hand units for silly money which seems daft?
 
jimmacD said:
Going to chuck a day at the old gal next week, need to sort a mystery suspension noise of Wifey's car and my 300c needs some love as the lift pump is making an orrible racket, unlike LR owners, Chrysler bobs seem to know feck all about their cars other than which big alloy wheels fit and where you can get angel eye headlight conversions from! Asked the question "where can I get new lift pump without sender unit?" and the tumble weed started rolling in! It seems that you can only get dodgy second hand units for silly money which seems daft?
Click to expand...
Wait until you do the rear suspension arms.
The word ti-fighter from star wars comes to mind. Especially the upper forward most arms 😳
 
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