Most garages can do a 'block test' for you.
This involves a blue chemical in a container on the top of the coolant header tank, fumes from the cooling system are then drawn in through the chemical.
If the head gasket has failed (or the cylinder head cracked) and hydrocarbons are getting into the cooling system the chemical will change colour to yellow.

Usually your local garage won't charge much for this. (perhaps just enough to cover a couple of pints for later).

Takes all the guesswork away - costs pennies (relatively speaking) and takes 10 minutes to carry out. I get mine from the local Snap-on bloke.

Yellow = spanners and wallet, stays blue = reach into fridge for a cold one;)
 
Hi Steve

yes thanks for the tip, that was something I didn't change when I originally sorted the cooling system.

When I first bought the car it broke down on the first Cornwall trip I took amid bouts of getting hot on hills, I may have done some damage to the head which has finally caught up with me.

Anyway at the specialists now, so they will let me know, they said the same as you guys and will check the basics first.

One local LR garage told me that once an M51 overheats it's a downhill slide, is that a fair statement?

thanks again for the advice everyone

Ash
 
Hi Steve

yes thanks for the tip, that was something I didn't change when I originally sorted the cooling system.

When I first bought the car it broke down on the first Cornwall trip I took amid bouts of getting hot on hills, I may have done some damage to the head which has finally caught up with me.

Anyway at the specialists now, so they will let me know, they said the same as you guys and will check the basics first.

One local LR garage told me that once an M51 overheats it's a downhill slide, is that a fair statement?

thanks again for the advice everyone

Ash

Not strictly correct, it depends on the severity of the overheat. Drive for any length of time with the red lamp on and you are asking for trouble.
 
Drive for any length of time with the red lamp on and you are asking for trouble.

That's what warning lights are for, Amber is usually a warning to get sorted ASAP, red means stop NOW and sort it.

Amazing how many people keep driving along with warning lights on. (but nobody on this forum would I know:D)
 
Doesn't the engine on a P38 shut down when red temperature light comes on? Forcing you to stop and check coolant level and protecting engine
 
Doesn't the engine on a P38 shut down when red temperature light comes on? Forcing you to stop and check coolant level and protecting engine


haha, not even an audible warning! Surprising P38 drivers don't go bog eyed with one eye on the temp gauge constantly.
 
Doesn't the engine on a P38 shut down when red temperature light comes on? Forcing you to stop and check coolant level and protecting engine

Yes it seemed to go into a crawl mode a couple of times, although there was no audible warning and no display.

Embarrassed to say that the garage phoned me today to say that it was low on coolant when it arrived, but it did lose a bit of coolant on overheat plus, the rad seemed to be weeping, from memory there was a bit of core damage from PO's clumsy spannering and this may have popped on overpressure. I don't remember the last time I checked the coolant level tho........

I will be very embarrassed if it was me not checking coolant levels..... what a dope!!
 
Yes it seemed to go into a crawl mode a couple of times, although there was no audible warning and no display.

Embarrassed to say that the garage phoned me today to say that it was low on coolant when it arrived, but it did lose a bit of coolant on overheat plus, the rad seemed to be weeping, from memory there was a bit of core damage from PO's clumsy spannering and this may have popped on overpressure. I don't remember the last time I checked the coolant level tho........

I will be very embarrassed if it was me not checking coolant levels..... what a dope!!
Cooling is so critical on the P38 that at least a weekly coolant check is essential, good idea to do the other fluids at the same time, only takes a couple of minutes.
Being a pedant, I check every time I refuel on long trips.:)
 
Cooling is so critical on the P38 that at least a weekly coolant check is essential, good idea to do the other fluids at the same time, only takes a couple of minutes.
Being a pedant, I check every time I refuel on long trips.:)

Yes, I may have been a very silly boy, my only excuse is that I have had mainly modern "fire and forget" type cars up until I bought the P38 and my other car is an air/oil cooled 993........but no excuse really, the P38 has been running so well, thanks to the support and knowledge on this forum, I got complacent!!
 
haha, not even an audible warning! Surprising P38 drivers don't go bog eyed with one eye on the temp gauge constantly.

That aspect of P38 ownership has always left me baffled!

Sunroof not set? BEEP!
Key in ignition with open door? BEEP!
lights left on? BEEP!
Engine suffering meltdown? Not a peep!
 
Hi

Car back and the only fault apparent was a deformed thermostat.

New rad fitted however, it came from Eurocarparts and when I got home I felt the top which was hot and the bottom was..............not even warm

What a ****er

Anyway at least no cracked head.......

Thanks to all for the input

Ash
 
Hi

Car back and the only fault apparent was a deformed thermostat.

New rad fitted however, it came from Eurocarparts and when I got home I felt the top which was hot and the bottom was..............not even warm

What a ****er

Anyway at least no cracked head.......

Thanks to all for the input

Ash

Better get yourself a marble then. :D:D
 

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