myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Back up, that stray connector.... is it not for the the 'secondary air pump relay' just below
the said connector in your picture???? And its missing its dust boot....
the said connector in your picture???? And its missing its dust boot....
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
thanks Phil, have you thought about going on mastermind?
we (or Jason) will have a look tomorrow, ive totalled up to buy just the valve parts and pipework and it was looking at around £160 so if i don't really need it then i wont rush out and buy it.
do you think this had anything to do with my vacuum hose collapsing, its the one that runs from the servo box across the back of the engine?
no LPG thankfully, i have enough things to go wrong..
Andy
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loony
Member
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
page 9, is that the drivers seat its referring to ???
in answer to your question Phil as to whether i have any part i think i have the nut in the following pic
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
If you aint got THAT bit, then your PCV valve wont work properly, which is probably why your brake servo is collapsing,i think it connects to PCV.
Provided that the pipe between the inlet manifold and where the reservoir (3) would have been is blanked off I cant see how this could affect the PCV circuit. If I understand it correctly, the vacuum is only used to switch the one-way valve (1) on and off - under the control of the vent valve (2) i.e. the vacuum opens the one-way valve (1) to allow air flow from the pump (4) to the exhaust when the SAI is activated but then blanks it off once the required temperature is reached and the pump (4) is simultaneously turned off.
Theres a whole raft of fault codes for the incorrect operation of the SAI system. As its emission related youd think the engine light would be activated on the dash? Strange....
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
i'll have a look through the all comms when i get a sec see what that has to say. if the rest of the car is anything to go by, somebody has probably taken the bulb out of the warning light
we are just about to launch off on our first proper test drive since the rebuild, hopefully i will be back reporting good things soon..
loony
Member
Andy will be along soon but this is what I have gathered so far.
car felt good for approx. 15 miles or so then after a decent speed run up the motorway and checking all the gears selected ok in manual/sport mode we came off the motorway and went through some twisty sections and roundabouts.
During the last turn Left to right, the car started to judder as though the wheel speeds were trying to be controlled unsuccessfully. Then as we gained speed up an inclined slip road the rumbling noise was definitely there, the rumble noise peaks and troughs, as in resonates, its not a constant sound. after that the noise came back as it had done before under light load low speed incline.
*** EDIT we did experience the noise at 70mph too ***
My instinct is saying differential as it sounds like its coming from the back end.
But, we are not completely sure that the transfer box is functioning properly because it doesn't actually work in the high/low range change. Fuses are in place but the switch doesn't trigger the actuator.
Think Andy is going to go for new tyres which are needed. The rear tyres are unevenly worn and near limit on the front, so good chance that the circumferences are wrong. The wheels are 20 inch if this makes any difference
Looks like the front and rear diff oil should be checked and renewed and then possibly looking into the service of the CV joints around the whole car as we have no idea if they are ok or not.
Gear box sounds good. it all functions very smoothly. Leaks are now gone so hopefully we can try and figure this rumble having the Gb and TC taken away from the equation.
I need to check but are there wheel speed sensors on each corner that send data to control power distribution?
car felt good for approx. 15 miles or so then after a decent speed run up the motorway and checking all the gears selected ok in manual/sport mode we came off the motorway and went through some twisty sections and roundabouts.
During the last turn Left to right, the car started to judder as though the wheel speeds were trying to be controlled unsuccessfully. Then as we gained speed up an inclined slip road the rumbling noise was definitely there, the rumble noise peaks and troughs, as in resonates, its not a constant sound. after that the noise came back as it had done before under light load low speed incline.
*** EDIT we did experience the noise at 70mph too ***
My instinct is saying differential as it sounds like its coming from the back end.
But, we are not completely sure that the transfer box is functioning properly because it doesn't actually work in the high/low range change. Fuses are in place but the switch doesn't trigger the actuator.
Think Andy is going to go for new tyres which are needed. The rear tyres are unevenly worn and near limit on the front, so good chance that the circumferences are wrong. The wheels are 20 inch if this makes any difference
Looks like the front and rear diff oil should be checked and renewed and then possibly looking into the service of the CV joints around the whole car as we have no idea if they are ok or not.
Gear box sounds good. it all functions very smoothly. Leaks are now gone so hopefully we can try and figure this rumble having the Gb and TC taken away from the equation.
I need to check but are there wheel speed sensors on each corner that send data to control power distribution?
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loony
Member
andy check out servotronic ECU calibrate? could this be an issue with 20 inch wheels fitted or is it diesels only?
judder in drive
judder in drive
The L322 does have DSC 9Dynamic Stability Control) that uses the brake system to control wheel speed if cornering to hard...it uses various sensors to determine stability....
Yaw Sensor
EAS Height Sensors
ABS Speed Sensors
Steering Angle Sensor etc etc
As for the rumbling....the rear prop is held with a saddle bearing - these have been known to wear causing a rumbling similar to the TC on the way out.
Also I changed all 4 tyres on mine in May (19") and I noticed a distinct change in vibration/rumbling.
A 4 wheel alighnment wouldn't go amiss either.
If the GB shifts smooth and kicks down willingly, I'd say you have done a grand job (did you put the remaining oil in the box (11 litres)?
The non-functioning Transfer box I doubt would have any input to the rumbling, unless the oil level is low....a check of the CV's and the diffs is a good call!
Yaw Sensor
EAS Height Sensors
ABS Speed Sensors
Steering Angle Sensor etc etc
As for the rumbling....the rear prop is held with a saddle bearing - these have been known to wear causing a rumbling similar to the TC on the way out.
Also I changed all 4 tyres on mine in May (19") and I noticed a distinct change in vibration/rumbling.
A 4 wheel alighnment wouldn't go amiss either.
If the GB shifts smooth and kicks down willingly, I'd say you have done a grand job (did you put the remaining oil in the box (11 litres)?
The non-functioning Transfer box I doubt would have any input to the rumbling, unless the oil level is low....a check of the CV's and the diffs is a good call!
More evident in diesel model with over 19" wheels (even 19"s can resonate)
attached is a tech bulletin indicating the V8 was similarly affected...
http://greenoval.homeunix.org/l322/tb/0039 Idle Vibration.pdf
loony
Member
Yes, topped up oil today as RAVE procedure.
Added 9.5 Liters before I ran out of fresh oil yesterday. Got car warmed up today, shifted through PRND, removed bung added 1.5-1.75 liters, did another PRND, checked oil temp coming out of the GB read at 30-35 Degrees, at that point I got about 0.5 liters back out until a steady slow stream and buttoned up at that.
Clutching at straws andy, try another steering angle calibrate and read this quote from here
Transmission needs help!!
Added 9.5 Liters before I ran out of fresh oil yesterday. Got car warmed up today, shifted through PRND, removed bung added 1.5-1.75 liters, did another PRND, checked oil temp coming out of the GB read at 30-35 Degrees, at that point I got about 0.5 liters back out until a steady slow stream and buttoned up at that.
Clutching at straws andy, try another steering angle calibrate and read this quote from here
Transmission needs help!!
