Datatek
Well-Known Member
Sorry, but none of that is relevant for the moment because the battery is dead.
Newinnwoodman
Active Member
Do you change every battery you see at 11.9 volts?
Yes it’s Voltage is lower than we would like to see. It needs charging and load testing to determine whether it’s serviceable. Not just replacing.
11.9 volts is usually sufficient to get power to the starter to test for a cranking signal. ( small signal wire).
11.9 volts will usually give you ignition lights on the dashboard.
Yes it’s Voltage is lower than we would like to see. It needs charging and load testing to determine whether it’s serviceable. Not just replacing.
11.9 volts is usually sufficient to get power to the starter to test for a cranking signal. ( small signal wire).
11.9 volts will usually give you ignition lights on the dashboard.
Its_ok_im_jk
Member
Ah ok, well that is a simple fix then, Thank you I will order straight away!
Its_ok_im_jk
Member
I can confirm I'm getting everything else, all normal lights on dash, radio, everything but starter motor turning over.
I will grab a new battery but re purpose the old one.
Jk
Datatek
Well-Known Member
11.9 volts on a modern lead calcium battery often means it's beyond charging and the ECU's in Range Rovers do not function with low voltage, cranking will quite likely drop the voltage from 11.9 to 9 volts.
Newinnwoodman
Active Member
Can you disconnect it, charge it overnight and check the voltage? Halfords can do a free Battery load test But ensure it has been charged before you take it to them. You don’t have to buy the replacement from them.
is it charging correctly? Is there a parasitic drain?
it may well be the battery but if it were mine I would take the logical steps to establish this.
Once you have a known serviceable battery I would then try and check if your getting a signal/ small wire feed to the starter motor when you move the key to the cranking position.
is it charging correctly? Is there a parasitic drain?
it may well be the battery but if it were mine I would take the logical steps to establish this.
Once you have a known serviceable battery I would then try and check if your getting a signal/ small wire feed to the starter motor when you move the key to the cranking position.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Difficult to check the alternator output if the car will not start.
These cars are notorious for problems if the battery is not up to scratch.
Newinnwoodman
Active Member
Derr yes sorry . Just trying to think all ways round.
Its_ok_im_jk
Member
Unfortunately it's parked up where she died, which is a 5 hour walk from me
I managed to get a lift back home with a colleague but I'm on my own getting back to her. I've ordered a battery and it should be Tuesday delivery, so I'll put my hiking boots on then. I will definitely try and resurrect the old one for the future though, and I am eager to investigate the causes of the death, it's rare that the battery is the only cause though isn't it?
Jk
Simplest - and quickest - way of checking an earth fault is to connect a good quality jump lead from a good clean metal point on the engine direct to battery earth terminal OR for vehicles with the battery in the boot from engine to a good clean piece of bare metal in the engine bay
If normal service is resumed you have an earth fault. Some of the worst offenders are plastic covered earth straps as the ends can look fine but the bit under the plastic can have rotted away.
Modern vehicles don't like low battery charge which is why the usual first advice is to either substitute a known good fully charged battery or fully charge the vehicle's battery with a battery charger.
If normal service is resumed you have an earth fault. Some of the worst offenders are plastic covered earth straps as the ends can look fine but the bit under the plastic can have rotted away.
Modern vehicles don't like low battery charge which is why the usual first advice is to either substitute a known good fully charged battery or fully charge the vehicle's battery with a battery charger.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
It's not unusual for a battery to just die especially if it is not kept fully charged, doing lots of short runs for example soon kills a batteryUnfortunately it's parked up where she died, which is a 5 hour walk from me
I will definitely try and resurrect the old one for the future though, and I am eager to investigate the causes of the death, it's rare that the battery is the only cause though isn't it?
Jk
Its_ok_im_jk
Member
Ah, right, that's definitely what I've been doing, 30 minute tops, only short runs no real rpms. I shall make use of the motorway more! Good point well made, thanks Datatek
Its_ok_im_jk
Member
Ok so an update.
Brand
New battery.
Still nothing when it comes to turn over.
There is a earth strap on the negative side of the battery, would another be needed? I've found the one as previously stated drivers side wheel arch, all looks good.
What next?
Brand
New battery.
Still nothing when it comes to turn over.
There is a earth strap on the negative side of the battery, would another be needed? I've found the one as previously stated drivers side wheel arch, all looks good.
What next?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
There should be an earth strap from the engine to the chassis. Do the dash lights dim when you try to start the car?
Its_ok_im_jk
Member
No, not at all.
Its_ok_im_jk
Member
As the pics show, the lights come up, then left with the usual contenders when I comes to ignition, bit no engine noises. I am trying to get the starter relay out for inspection (behind battery) but she's reluctant to come free. Can I link it in situ to get it started??
Attachments
Looks ?
Did you take it off clean and replace it ?
You only need one good ground from the chassis to the battery and one good one from the body to the battery...ok, maybe one from the gearbox too ...
Things like your starter motor, headlights, thermo fans and any other high power users should go back to battery and have relays for switching ....
Its_ok_im_jk
Member
No, I didn't, just a visual, but i will now! Thank you
Might have some corrosion at the back of the fuse / relay board ... not unheard of for water to interfere with eletrickey type devices ...
Datatek
Well-Known Member
All items are earthed locally to the body. The positive side as you say are switched either by relays or MOSFETS.
There should be an earth strap from engine to body and just one from the battery to body.
